SteamyTea

So he says that his normal background levels are 5, but a josstick makes it 800, and the particulates hang around for two days. So did he not cook anything for two days? And the myth that any dead timber rots down to CO2. Sorry, the guy is a nob, just justifying his choices. Comparing city centre NOX and PM2.5s is not a fair comparison. I will trust the real scientists about this, not some bloke up north.

It is the size of the feet that is important. I would hope that wardrobe manufacturers has thought about point loads on their products. It s not often we hear about them piercing a floor after all.

Isn't that what MCS (or their agents) has to do.

How thick is it where a point load is?

How does that tell you the compression strength? There may be a casual correlation between compression strength and density, but timber is a strange beast as the Young's Modulus, which is what is important here, is orientation dependant.

Bit in the Guardian about Londoners' and wood burners. https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2023/feb/20/wood-burners-urban-air-pollution-londoners-support-ban

Been hunting around the shed and I cannot find any OSB, except what is lining the shed, and I am not going to cut that up. So someone else will have to see if OSB crushed more than plywood.

As I said, it cannot be looked at in isolation. The airtightness on the inside is really about moisture migration mitigation. Then, in the UK, the 'layers' get less vapour tight, not vapour tight, no mention of airtight. This leads to a problem that people think that the VCL is all that is needed, if this was the case, then just hanging any old type of insulation on an exterior wall would solve high energy usage. So it must be pointed out that, as I mentioned here: Saying otherwise is giving bad advice.

It only has to comply with the MCS rules from my understanding. There are other rules as well, 1m from boundary, 0.6m³ in volume. Yes, that is true, but it is set up to help installers, not help customers. I think it has been confused with sales terminology.

Isn't it more a case of a Franchise. Set rules to stick to, but you, or the customer, can still choose to use you, or go to independent.

Not sure I agree there. You can make a room very airtight on the inside, but if you allow air to pass though the insulation layer, then the performance is reduced. Each element has to be dealt with in both isolation and as part of the whole.

You win, or is it comes second as I have commented.

I have a theory that the faster it goes off topic, the less interested people are.

Welcome. There is a few topics on data monitoring, and a couple on boiler data busses.

I drove though Hertfordshire in a Ford C-Max the other day. Almost got to Tring before it all went wrong.

It is a bit late at night to go out into the shed, but if I remember in the morning, and can find a bit of OSB, I shall pop it in the vice and see what happens.

Probably your easiest and safety option. Well not at your house.

You need to work out the area that the feet it sits on and then the total mass. Convert to MPa (Mega Pascals) then see what the compression strength of OSB is (I am sure a bit of googling will reveal it). Then wish you had a bit more oak. Higher quality ply wood may work i.e. marine or birch faced. https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Performance-of-OSB-in-Compression_tbl1_319095057 Stress-strainconstitutiverelationofOSBunderaxialloadingAnexperimentalinvestigation.pdf

Rounding errors. Both of us are quote short, I am 5' 6 1/2". That half inch is important, so once rounded, I am 6 foot tall. (sometimes imperial units are better for comical affect)

Might be. Outside Air Temperature (OAT) can be modelled quite accurately using a Normal Distribution. Plug in the mean air temperature for your area, adjust the standard deviation until he coldest temperature you have every known there is reached i.e.-10°C (or in my case -2°C), then multiply by 8760, which is the hours in a year.

Just for a laugh, put an energy monitor in it and see what it uses. As an aside, I have found out why my cheap 'solar UPS' failed. It was an old, and very cheap, battery bank, so when it was left for a few hours, the voltage dropped too low to run the RPi, even when plugged into a 2A charger. Was still worth a go, and I know not to do it again.

Almost. It does depend on what the losses of the building/room is as well. A floor slab is no different to a wall, except the angle it is at. There is a hot side and a cold side. The hot side is the mean flow temperature (give or take a little bit because it will have some concrete above it). The cold side is the ground, which varies with external temperature, but with a quite long delay/response time. The easy way to get an idea of what the ground temperature is, is to run the kitchen cold tap for a minute or two, then measure the temperature. Underfloor heating is generally considered to use more energy that radiators (which are really convection heaters), the amount extra used is generally considered 20%, but that is dependant on so many other things it is only a rule of thumb, just as easy to work it out more reliably with a thermometer and ten minutes with a spreadsheet.

I worked out if the flow temperature, in an UFH system, was 32°C and ground was 8°C, the with a U-Value of 0.27 W/m2K, then it is about 400 W lost to the ground, and at 0.12 W/m2K, then 175 W will be lost to the ground. So about half the losses with better insulation. That is probably a worse case, so maybe halve it. But if you have less insulation, the mean flow temperature will probably be higher, so even greater losses. Insulation is not an exciting product, but it works all the time and consistently. While it might be easier to say that the losses are relatively small in the scheme of things, having UFH in the house will probably make it a nicer place to be.

Yes.

How many m² and what is the ∆T.