SteamyTea

Write to your local MP, and the Energy Secretary. And the BBC. This nonsense has to be stopped.

Why tiles, they are an expensive option. Some PV inverts can live outside, or use micro inverts below the modules.

9 m² https://www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/solar-panels/planning-permission-stand-alone-solar-equipment-panels-not-on-a-building-but-within-the-grounds-of-a-house-or-a-block-of-flats

Don't forget that you can hang a lot of stuff on the walls. Was listening to Costing the Earth yesterday, Steve Backshall Goes Off Grid. Apart from getting his sensible and latent heat mixed up, and not giving a cash price on what he spent, he said one interesting thing about his plant room. 'it is hot in here' Sounds like he has not insulated enough. So make sure you have enough room to add extra insulation to everything. Manufacturers of cylinders and tanks may boast about how great the levels are, but if a room gets hot, it isn't good enough.

Interesting one. Windspeed on its own is a very weak correlation for my house. Generally windspeed correlates nicely with OAT. Mainly because we have high windspeeds from the SW, and low windspeeds from the NE. Does mean we get caught out occasionally, Beasts from the East.

With 6mm that may be ok. Still out some cross bracing though. There was a calculator link posted up about ply sagging, think it was in one of the shelves posts, @Adsibob one I think.

How would you deal with guttering between the flat and sloping roofs (I know it is a simple model)?

Just the descriptive stats, not really done any analysis on it. It should be possible with the 60 MB of data I have collected this year and the 500 MB of data I have collected in previous years to tease out what is really happening.

Spend the service cash on a flow meter/logger and make a temperature logger.

Something like this? With the heating off. With the heating on.

How far apart are the joist. If 600mm, then yes it will sag. Can you put in some lightweight 'noggins' every 300mm?

One for @Gus Potter I think. Had a quick look, Cord 1 and 1 (top and bottom) have similar dead loads at 210 and 200 N.m-2, so that is 410 N.m-2 for flooring and ceiling. The there is the imposed load, which I think is point loading, at 1500 N.m-2, which is 159 kg.m-2. My knowledge is lacking in that I do not know for definite what the imposed load it. Seems from a very quick internet search that they are considered equal to impact loads. https://eng.libretexts.org/Bookshelves/Civil_Engineering/Structural_Analysis_(Udoeyo)/01%3A_Chapters/1.02%3A_Structural_Loads_and_Loading_System

I think you can get modules that fit within the seams. They clamp to the upstands.

Just run it though a beam calculator and see what the deflection is.

Yes, I have that. Means I can limit when the stuff comes on.

Not really.

It is quite possible. You will need a charge controller (that can handle the voltages and amps) a battery and an inverter to run anything that is 230V. There are two types of inverters for this, full sine wave, not full sine wave. You probably need the former. Probably going to cost you 500 quid.

Have you run your angles through PVGIS.

My E7 has a secondary switch that is controlled by a radio signal.

I am neither. Software Engineer is just a term cooked up by Mother's to excuse their son's absence at the diner table. Everyone nods sagely.

Quarter sheet one. Gets more pressure on the paint, and easier to get into corners.

The wiring regs will apply. Was chatting to a fireman a couple of weeks back and he was saying that battery fires are happening more often (there are more if them, especially in bikes and scooters).

Maybe. I am not sure when replacing and new cross over.

Angle grinder, multitool and filler.

I thought consumers units had to be at a sensible height now. Not sure what you had done was legal. May be wrong. www.nhbc.co.uk/binaries/content/assets/nhbc/tech-zone/nhbc-standards/tech-guidance/8.1/mounting-height-consumer-units-new-october-2018.pdf