SteamyTea

One is a thermal source, the other is thermal resistance. Could combine the two, into a pie. Sing a song of sixpence, A pocket full of rye, Four and twenty blackbirds Baked in a pie. When the pie was opened The birds began to sing— Wasn't that a dainty dish To set before the king? The king was in the counting-house Counting out his money, The queen was in the parlor Eating bread and honey, The maid was in the garden Hanging out the clothes. Along came a blackbird And snipped off her nose. Sing a song of sixpence, A pocket full of rye, Four and twenty blackbirds Baked in a pie. When the pie was opened The birds began to sing— Wasn't that a dainty dish To set before the king?

They can only supply, safely, a 10A continuous load. 9 kW is a big sauna stove for a domestic. From the sizes you said earlier, a 6 kW at most.

They will almost certainly be selling the same volume of electricity as they are buying in, so in accountancy terms, yes they are truthful. In reality, the electrons go to the closest load first, so in Physics terms, no they are not. As it is really about reducing CO2, it does not matter as it is the fraction of the whole that is important, not the sum of one component. You can see what is happening here. https://www.gridwatch.templar.co.uk/france/ It shows that other countries are taking/adding as well.

It is to stop uncontrolled thermal losses. Ideally the temperature as it leaves the UFH pipework will be at the ideal temperature for efficiency. Adding a buffer/volumizer just adds more water, it is not there to control temperature, the boiler/heat pump does that, it just reduces cycling. So insulating the buffer/volumizer keeps the return temperature at, or very close to, the ideal temperature without losses (or at least reduced losses).

Thank Exeter University, where I studied climates and how they change.

Welcome You are asking the impossible really. To get anywhere close to comparing to a typical modern build where you have a vapour control layer (VLC) on the warm side, then more vapour open as you move towards the cold side, you will need to know the mu-value (µ = MN.s.gram-1) of every component you intend to build with. You will also need to properly analysis your local climate as I suspect it is on the cusp of a Northern Europe climate and a Mediterranean one. Different climate zones have different building codes to cope with the local climates i.e. UK uses the VLC on the inside (warm side) and then controls ventilation rates, the Southern USA has the VLC on the outside and controls the ventilation via air conditioning. Try and find out what your local building standards are as the first research, choosing materials is a long way down the list.

Is anyone going on the Saturday?

I suspect that you would never notice any difference between the two systems. There is an awful amount of nonsense spoken by salespeople. I do agree about the batteries though, it is still early days for them and they are sold to boost the profitability of the company, not to really help the consumer. Many years ago there was a small domestic wind turbine that just plugged into a wall socket. While it is fairly easy to design a system like that, it is probably not the best way of doing it.

That should not affect the house heat loss, only the heat emitter's physical locations and power distribution.

I answered that question a while back, can't remember that topic title, so you better look for it.

Works ok with storage heaters, the air exits at about 85⁰C from mine.

Find a local planning consultant and let they see what can be done.

Welcome. A good introduction, and not overambitious. Think about thermal performance a lot and how to deal with it. There are loads of answers on here about it.

Water doesn't get past the surface on cavity batts. That is because of the length. If the cavity was a few millimetres, then it would. But that same is true of just about any material. At any temperature above absolute zero (0K) evaporation of any material can take place (and sublimation). It is the way materials work. So it is not really time, per sec, that is the governing factor, more temperature, on the kelvin scale. It is how heat pumps work, and what governs their efficiency (Carnot Cycle). Prof (Dr) Richard Feynman was the bloke that formulised all this back in the late 1940's, building on Maxwell's Demons. Better than that though, it is all statistics. But basically, if there is a long enough path, then liquids will not move past a set limit. They get too thin and start to evaporate. A sphere has the best surface area for a path length, and plenty of space for another gas between the balls.

The larger surface area. 4πr2 A cylinder has a surface area that is. 2πrh+2πr2 Mineral wools can be modelled as cylinders.

That makes sense, never thought of it that way. Nice seeing the word 'thermocline' instead of 'stratification', which is a very rare phenomenon in fluids. Yes. True will all storage, Evan a flat battery will have some voltage in it. Often thought that more use of small W2WHPs could be made. Get a lot of energy turning water ice to liquid water.

I have heard/read this many times. I accept that a secondary heat exchanger has a temperature drop across it, it could not deliver power otherwise. Bur just as an energy store I cannot see how there is a difference. SHC x Mass X delta T minus standing losses should work out the same.

Over at the other place, I started a topic where we could enter our weekly household energy usage and house details. Was quite interesting at first, but people soon got bored and stopped posting up data. It is probably still on the GBF website.

Most quotes are linear equations.

Not in the shower block.

It will. Saunas drop the RH to about 20% or less. You can always run them hotter, for a laugh we used to get the one in the show room up to 110°C and then see how long we could stay in it. You don't want to put any water on the coals at those temperatures.

I am sure there would be lots of useful ideas to incorporate from people on here.

Here is a sensible question about wiring up an ASHP. As most are fitted around the back, or at least towards the rear of a house, and most consumer units are at the front of the house. what is the best way to run the cable?

People that have paid quite a bit for batteries tend to do a lot of post purchase rationalisation.