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Decided to hold off installation for a few weeks and get a comparable quote. Second company is offering an LG Therma V R32 instead of the Ecodan so will be interesting to see how they compare. Will keep you posted

Hmm burn it and cause pollution but get to recycle it... dump it in landfill and no recycling.... it’s a no win situation ......or be a complete optimist and put it in the shed and assume there WILL be a use for it at some point..... I was very pleased when I got to use some of my long kept off cuts to roof my water treatment plant ! ....not so mad now I thought .....

Broadly the numbers for 20mm filter I’ve seen are a pressure drop of 40/80/120Pa for G3/M5/F7 respectively

I have put 30sqm of parquet through a planer to take it down to 19mm which removed the tar and took it to a more reasonable thickness. Its 90 years old so I’m expecting that it should have shrunk by now and stabilised ...

Steel wool and foam, then skim over with filler. Pipe trim over the top will keep it all tidy

We just bought a new supply of filters for our Vent Axia. They were G4 rather than G3 ones. I found this during my searches:

I feel for you man, what a saga. But hay next time you will be a pro. We all make mistakes and Ive made plenty. I have the upmost respect for people when they come on this forum and say “” I messed up” how do I fix it and we all get to see how to fix it and how not to do it in the future. These fixings are great but as I said you need to get it just right otherwise the fabric / rubber on the washer gets over compressed and it does not re expand.

I used Acor the resin type around a fiver per mtr St them in concrete five mill bellow your paving and forget about them

Correct fitment is indeed terminal box down. I don't think I've ever heard of one failing ever but I do know that the housing is light-gauge copper and the chances of unscrewing the element out of an elderly one are small. Hence some now being sold as a soldered-up unit. interesting note also that in their normal application- from the bottom to the top of the DHW cylinder- running the heater for a minute or two to get hot water moving means that you can then open a tap to a low flow rate and have continuous hot water. The willis basically bypasses the tank...

Is it that much? Sorry, I'm not a member and don't have access. I've always come across their Wood Information Sheets on Google when checking bits and pieces but only ever seen the freely available info which is always really good. My understanding is that a lot of the good timber frame suppliers are members so if you are friendly with one of them... probably a very long shot unless any forum readers are members.

The cheapest option is probably to look at phosphate dosing, if all you wish to do is protect the heat exchanger in the Sunamp from scale build up. This works well, and is cheaper than ion exchange softening. @richi here seems happy with the Combimate, but there are other options, and in terms of performance all the phosphate dosing units are much of a muchness.

What an epic project. I really wish you the best - which you deserve. Will you be keeping momentoes. I am imagining a long gallery with one of those "photo every week" sequences showing the gent in the piccies with his grey hairs becoming more and more extensive as you walk through. We could all do one of those. I still have one of those "layer jars" made from the dust from the row of drill holes when they did the injected dpc on our family house from when I was about 11. But I tend not to keep enough reminders. Ferdinand

scluer kerdi board or i think the other one is called Wedi (both basically XPS foam with a cementious outer. Are these like any of the products mentioned above?

So if you have one faulty one, one delivered incorrectly and a proper new one being delivered, can I take the old ones off your hands.

Hi folks. Hope you don't mind me jumping in here. My engineers drawings are specifying 389mm centres for the beams, using 18kg blocks. He is basically saying we need to cut down standard 440mm blocks, all 1100 or so of them! Not only will this be very time consuming, there will be a lot of waste. Does anyone have any ideas? What size would the blocks need to be at 389mm centres? We have substantial under build, so a slab is not an option. What I thought was a simple, cost effective solution is turning out to be far from it! Thanks.

I don't have a secret method to reduce lime scale build up, I just live in Cornwall.