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If you are anywhere near Newark or Sleaford then pop in to see Gordon ar Black Mill doors and reclamation. He does some nice oak Doors, but you'll lose hours chatting to him!

I used these people for all my internal doors - had oak door sets, pocket doors and flush doors (sprayed to my own ral colour). They do everything and in bespoke sizes. Very helpful and lovely quality. I dealt with Ryan http://www.doorsuppliesonline.co.uk/index.php

Some typical DIN rail terminals: A typical one: A blue one: A stop end goes on the rail to stop stuff sliding along it: And an earth one. As described above, see how the terminals are connected to the rail:

Have used Oakwood doors before for non standard doors,really helpful company and good prices, could be a few weeks delivery though. https://www.oakwooddoors.co.uk/bespoke-doors

A few of us have found if you limit the flow temperature to 40 degrees that seems to mostly eliminate defrosting. So set a fixed temp or adjust the heat curve so it never goes over 40. In cold weather it may just be better to leave it on all day and night with no set back.

I last used a firm call Ahmarra who manufacture doors and doorsets in Portsmouth They can do any size you like.

Our house uses dry blown cellulose, but should be much the same in terms of acoustic performance to the wet sprayed stuff, I should think. It is exceptionally good as acoustic insulation, especially when you consider that we have no masonry construction at all. The house is eerily quiet, especially at night, and any slight external noise that does get in seems to be via the windows and doors. I would imagine that if used to fill internal walls cellulose would out-perform rockwool as acoustic insulation by a fair bit. I think the only problem may be finding someone with the kit to install it, although it doesn't look to be a particularly hard job to do.

No problem with the condensation risk analysis - generally you have decreasing vapour resistance materials from inside to out plus the ventilated airspace so all should be OK. As you have a cold roof there should be a vapour control layer on the warm side of the insulation, this will increase the margin for safety in the assessments. However both sets of U-values do not include any correction for the thermal bridge created by the metal webs passing through the insulation layers. I've had a look at the easi-joist brochure (https://www.wolfsystem.co.uk/products/easi-joist.aspx - see page 39 of technical guide) which shows U-values including the effect of the metal webs and they add about 0.08 W/m2K to the basic U-value (higher than my guess of 0.03-0.05 above). Also the Ecotherm calculation has the chord width as 47mm when it should be 72mm for easi-joist and this increases the bridging from 12% to 18%! Ecotherm calculation also does not correctly address spray foam between the easi-joist metal webs

The above pic may be of interest as it shows a) how we divided the flooring so we could pour, level and power float a section of flooring at a time, and b) shovelling concrete from an OSB sheet into the wall void as our pump was too brutal to pour directly into the void. The attached pic shows the moveable platform we used for pouring concrete into the wall void, again because of the wrongly spec'd pump.

Yes, ours is directly in the concrete and that is recommended (see pic attached). Given that it means that there will be no self levelling screed, real attention is needed to get the concrete as level as possible. The whole system also needs a good bit of time and attention to get it all set up in advance.

Our upstairs temperature is around 22C and downstairs around 23C, if it wasn't there would be complaints. 16C maybe toasty to an Innuit.