Leaderboard

In that spirit... Can you get 'Sunamp care' like you can with a gas combi boiler? Whats the after care engineer network like for speed of response etc. Would repair insurance cover the PV system too or would a chap buy a separate product to cover this? I understand the phase change salts last for gazillions of cycles but how much *ballpark* if you had to change these and what about disposal of the old salts. Can you dust these on a bit of good fillet steak from Aldi for your Friday night dinner? There, that's a meaty question @Nickfromwales

This thread was originally posted in the other place, and is a team effort to collect together as many acronyms and abbreviations used in the building trade as we could. If you know of any abbreviations missing, or think there should be a correction to the list, then post them as a reply to this topic and one of the moderators can edit the original list to keep it all up together. AAV = Air Admittance Valve. (Sometimes referred to as a Durgo Valve.) AAV (alternative) = Automatic Air Vent. ACH = Air Change [per] Hour AIUI = "As I understand It". AONB = Area [of] Outstanding Natural Beauty Article 4 Direction = Removes Permitted Development (PD) rights. (See: http://www.brighton-...cle-4-direction ) ASHP = Air Source Heat Pump (And see also: http://www.planningp...ects/heatpumps/ ) BC / BCO / BI = Building Control / Building Control Officer / Building Inspector (Often prefixed with LA = Local Authority, as in LABCO.) BR = Building Regulations (Regs) CIL = Community Infrastructure Levy (= a charge levied by a LA based on the sq.m of a property. Note: self-builds are exempt.) CO = Conservation Officer. (Now often designated: Heritage Officers. Specialized - although often not particularly qualified - planning officers working in a local authority Conservation/Heritage department. Have the power to over-rule BC where the Regs are concerned if a proposal is considered likely to impact on the "historic character" of a building, whether Listed or not, or in a Conservation Area.) {Listed Building, see: http://www.planningp...ing_consent.pdf } {Conservation Area, see: http://www.planningp...ns/conservation } CU = Consumer Unit CCU = Cooker Connection Unit CWS = Cold Water Storage [tank]. (Large plastic tank often in attic.) CYL Stat = hot water cylinder thermostat for control of DHW temperature. DeltaT = ΔT (Greek symbol Δ =delta in Greek alphabet) Temperature difference. (In the building context usually referring to the difference in temperature across a wall when discussing the effectiveness of insulation.) DG = Double Glazing (Sometimes referred to in shorthand as 2g = double glazed; 3g = triple glazed. Also expressed as 'd/g') DCW = Domestic Cold Water DHW = Domestic Hot Water DNO = Distribution Network Operator (electricity supply) DPC = Damp Proof Course DPM = Damp Proof Membrane EA = Environment Agency EDPM = Roofing membrane. (EPDM rubber (ethylene propylene diene monomer (M-class) rubber), a type of synthetic rubber,) EPC = Energy Performance Certificate (See: https://www.gov.uk/b...ce-certificates ) EPS = Expanded Polystyrene Insulation EV - Expansion Vessel EWI = External Wall Insulation F&E = Feed and Expansion tank. (Small plastic tank often found in attic alongside CWS.) FCU = Fused Connection Unit FWIW = "for what its worth". (As in: "That's my opinion FWIW.") FYI = For Your Information. (Now often seen in formal letters since they took the form of emails, and especially in the header of an email forwarded to keep someone "in the loop".) GCN = Great Crested Newt GSHP - Ground Source Heat Pump HC or VHC = heat capacity/volumetric heat capacity ICF= Insulated Concrete Formwork IGU = Insulated Glazed Unit (industry term for double or triple glazing) IMHO = "in my honest opinion." (Alternative: "in my humble opinion.") IIRC = "If I remember correctly." IWI = Internal Wall Insulation KISS = Keep It Simple Stupid. (Usually expressed as: "Stick to the KISS principle.") LA = Local Authority LBC = Listed Building Consent. (Needed to carry out work on any Listed building, whether domestic or commercial, privately or publicly owned, which is protected by law because of its historic significance, whether by age or architectural importance attested to by English Heritage.) (See also: Listed Building, above.) LPA = Local Planning Authority LPG = Liquefied Petroleum Gas M&E = Mechanical and Electrical MCB = Miniature Circuit Breaker MDPE = Medium-density polyethylene also referred to as Alkathene. Pipe used to carry mains water and gas, usually buried underground. MI = Manufacturers Instructions MVHR = Mechanical Ventilation [with] Heat Recovery. NPPF = National Planning Policy Framework OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer OLIVE = Compressible copper ring accompanying threaded plumbing fittings that compresses around the pipe when the fitting is tightened to form a watertight seal. Often reinforced with PTFE tape [see below]. OSB = Orientated strand board Party wall = An internal wall common to two properties. (Not always a contentious issue, but see: http://www.planningp...on/partywallact ) PDR = Permitted Development Rights. (Sometimes just 'PD'. See: http://www.planningp...ssion/permitted ) PGM room stat = Programmable room thermostat: selects both operating times and temperatures. PI = Professional Indemnity (Insurance) PINS = Planning Inspectorate PME = Protective multiple earthing PIR = Rigid Polyisocyanurate Insulation PoE (or POE) = Power over Ethernet. Enables power to be provided to the device (phone or a network camera) using the same cable as that used for network connection. PRV = Pressure Relief Valve PRedV - Pressure Reducing Valve PHE - Plate Heat Exchanger PTFE (tape) = (polytetrafluoroethylene) Tape used to seal threads and joints (e.g. around olives in compressions fittings) in plumbing. Also known as Teflon tape outside the UK PUR = Rigid Polyurethane Insulation PV = Photovoltaics e.g. Roof Solar panels R-value = Thermal resistance [insulation] (the higher the better) RCD = Residual Current Device RCBO = Residual Current circuit Breaker with Overcurrent protection RDF = Refuse Derived Fuel RTFM = Read The Flipping Manual. (The polite version; the less inhibited version is usually expressed with the 'F' meaning what you think it means.) SAP = Standard Assessment Procedure (See: https://www.gov.uk/s...sment-procedure ) (See also: https://www.bre.co.u...P-2012_9-92.pdf ) ( https://www.gov.uk/g...t_file_2012.pdf ) SAPV - SunAmpPV SE = Structural Engineer SEPA = Scottish Environmental Protection Agency SFCU = Switched Fused Connection Unit SHC = Specific Heat Capacity (heat is another word for energy, don't confuse with temperature) SIPs = Structural Insulated Panels SSSI = Site of Special Scientific Interest Stat = Thermostat. (Room stat = wall mounted thermostat/central heating control.) SUDs = SUSTAINABLE URBAN DRAINAGE [system] SVP = soil vent pipe. SWA = Steel Wire Armoured (cable) SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed (Attributed to "Rumpole of The [Old] Bailey", who used the phrase when referring to his wife, but actually from Rider Haggard's "She": https://www.youtube....h?v=bS5YmETSVCI ) TAF = Temporary Amphibian Fence TBH = "to be honest" (As in: "TBH I don't know.") TBF= "to be fair" (As in: "TBF to the builder, he hadn't a clue.) T&E = Twin and Earth (cable) TF = Timber Frame (form of house construction) T&G = Tongue and groove. (Often given in lower-case: t&g.) T&PV = Temperature & Pressure [relief] Valve TS = Thermal Store UFH = Under Floor Heating. (Also expressed as 'Underfloor Heating' but usually still given as UFH.) U-value = Rate of transfer of heat [insulation] (get it as low as possible, below 0.15 if you can) UVC = Unvented Cylinder VCL = Vapour Control Layer WUFI = "Wärme und Feuchte instationär" - Heat and Moisture transfer analysis XPS = Extruded Polystyrene Insulation ZV = Zone valve, motorised or other. (Directs heating medium to wherever needed according to programmed requirements.) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT L x W x H = Length times width times height. (But note that when giving dimensions for windows and doors ALWAYS follow the convention of width first, following by the height.) J = joule (not Joule) W = watt h = hour s= second k = kilo (thousand) kW = kilowatt kWh = kilowatt hour kWp = kilowatt peak (Solar installations - literally peak output.) m = metre (not meter) m2 = square metre (not metre squared) t = time T = temperature °C = Celsius or Centigrade K = kelvin (not °K or degrees Kelvin) k or k often means conductivity R = resistivity U = 1/R g = gram kg = kilogram (the odd SI unit, use it) J/(kg.K) = J/(kg.K) = J.kg-1.K-1 W/(m2.K) = W/m2.K = W.m-2.K-1 f(x) = function of x. (Common usage in thermal and stress calculations as well as statistics.) e = Exponent (1+1/1!+1/2!+1/3!+1/4!...) how things heat up and cool down, how fast things grow, π = pi ratio of a circles diameter to its circumference

We're trying to hide our toaster. Why? Not much work surface. And clutter annoys me (us). Has anyone found a way to hide a toaster? I think we can sort out our microwave, oven, dishwasher, coffee maker, easily enough, but has anyone found a way to 'disappear' a toaster in a way which allows everyone to use it easily? Of course we can just stick it in a cupboard: but how do you deal efficiently with the inevitable smoke, crumbs and usability issues?

I would go full John Rambo and make a camouflage hide and lie in wait. When the moment arrives he would get the shat scared out of him when I pounce out in fatigues with the war paint on and a hatchet in my hand and give him the due care and attention he needs.

Rockwool batts or PIR / EPS down the sides. The floor under mine has 150mm of PIR and 25mm EPS. The walls down one long side and end have 50mm PIR in. On the long side there's an additional 50mm of EPS wedged in. Helps they're not outside walls. It's lovely and warm.....when I've enough hot water to fill it!

What about one of those motion activated cameras to capture the wankers reg number?

Possibly a Mk3 Mondeo Estate?

I reckon it'd drop condensation.

The Geberit wall drain arrived. So...I thought I'd get back to figuring the outside drains! Started to Kango up the old footings. Nearly at the fence and no sign of the footing turning a corner. The concrete's also full of fence wire! Wish I had a digger.

The main issue surely is aesthetics? If you can live with it! We've got a Bosch oven & dishwasher, Hotpoint washing machine, Whirlpool fridge freezer, Frigidaire freezer, Sanyo microwave etc Luckily SWMBO isn't bothered if things don't match.....like the two halves of my face!

WTF i thought...whats happening here. Read it in my phone as Kidnapped and ransom

It stores thermal energy in phase change cells, a bit like thermal batteries. These use a compound very similar to that used in the "jelly bag" hand warmers you can buy, the ones that you charge up in boiling water to make the solid content into a liquid, and that you can then later use to release the stored heat by clicking a small actuator that initiates a phase change, from liquid to solid, so releasing the stored heat. Think of a Sunamp PV as a combi boiler or instant water heater. It doesn't store water, but will instantly heat water that flows through it when a tap is opened, just like a combi boiler, thermal store or instant water heater. It normally runs at mains water pressure, perhaps with a PRedV if the water pressure at the main is too high. No it won't work as a buffer for an UFH system, as it delivers water at typically around 55 deg C (before the supplied TMV), plus it's designed to be a domestic hot water unit, not a central heating unit. If it's not sunny then you can charge a Sunamp PV up from the mains. Our system is set so that the Sunamp PV is boosted by the mains at 4 am, for two hours, using a time switch, so that it is always charged for morning showers. If the Sunamp PV thermal cells are already charged up from the previous days excess PV, then no power is drawn during this boost period. If the thermal cells are discharged, or partially discharged, then they will draw power from the boost system until they are fully charged, then stop drawing power.

We're pioneers, that's why ?

1. EPDM is just like the stuff an inner tube from a tyre is made of, basically a big sheet if rubber, so it's soft and easy to fold, tack and stick. I sheeted my roof in 22mm OSB and then screwed through the OSB to attach lengths of 4*2 underneath, on the edge. I then lapped the EPDM around and under the 4*2 so there was a drip bead. you can also add a trim on top of the edge for a nice finish. Its very easy to work with and if you use contact adhesive on the edges like Evostick it will be there forever. For the main part of the roof (i.e. not the last 200mm at the edge) you use latex adhesive which is cheaper, more watery but not as much bond strength. This can go on with a cheap roller or brush. Use a cheap roller or brush because you will be throwing it away afterwards! 2. I use any stuff you can get from Gumtree or cheapest...the rainscreen is keeping 99% of water off so the membrane is not doing much. Cross battens will leave a good gap and plenty of room for air flow.

All I can say is 'four sleeps' until I get a digger and dumper for three days .....

Dunno if that chiller wold be OK for potable water but could you run the rising main through it?

The chant "Yer wanna get a digger mate!" started in 2014, and I finally got one two years later. The chanters were right. But what I didn't hear was what they were chanting (sniggering) under their breath. "You're gonna get covered in grease". Let's start at the beginning. How much does a digger cost to hire? £70 per day. How much does it cost to transport it to and from your house / plot? £25. All plus VAT. Bang goes £300 / £350 per week. And it rains, or there's a delay, and it sits there leering at you like some hideous demented mechanical giraffe whispering softly in your ear Use Me Use Me If You dare. But you can't because it's hissing down. And suddenly it's Friday, a couple of hundred pounds has flown out of the window, and two of the jobs you had planned haven't been done. And soon you're driving around noting every single digger sitting there idle in a field or on the roadside and NOBODY'S USING IT. It shouldn't be allowed. Diggers are expensive; they should not be left idle. Or rather those ones that are idle should be loaned to you the second the owner decides to have a day off. It's OK, you'll come and fetch it and bring it back when the owner needs it. Anything but let a digger be idle when you haven't got one. And then you do a bit of maths: how many jobs around the site do we need a digger for? And the list gets longer by the week. The children start muttering about dad being on about a digger for Christmas and birthday present all wrapped into one. And then you start noticing things like zero-swing diggers, and that's a 22 tonner, and is that a 2.6 tonne or 2.5 tonne digger? Soon, you know how to tell. The next thing is: JCB or Kubota? Or maybe Volvo? Hmmm. Well Kubota have reliable engines (other companies fit Kubota engines) JCB - well, a bit sloppy round the edges. Looking on Tinternet for prices and maybe the odd trip out -just to look, no more you understand. A budget number bubbles up in your spreadsheet against the Heading Plant and Equipment. Suddenly there's 10K more than planned. But, you can re-sell it at the end of the build. So nett off the cost against the hire cost (minus VAT) and you're in profit (Ha!). The digger duly arrives. And suddenly a whole world opens up. Move that Cherry tree, no problem (that wasn't on the list), shove those steels through your son's windows (after he takes them out) no problem; move two tonnes of stone quickly from one place to then other - well not quite no problem, but you aren't sweating. See a problem, turn the key. Dig your SuDS drainage in less time than you thought. Move that newt hibernacular three meters to the right: done. The dozer blade is awesome (I hate that word: but here it's the right word). And then there's the maintenance schedule. A Kubota has more nipples than a prize sow. And God can they suck grease. And I'm not the best at changing grease cartridges - when I'd finished I knew what the phrase Grease Monkey meant. I will not want to sell it. How on earth am I going to get that past Debbie?