Leaderboard

FWIW, I found that the combination of a 50mm deep service space behind the plasterboard, plus the space allowed behind units, the bath etc, was such that I could easily just sweep the plastic pipe around into a gentle bend to come out perpendicular to the wall by the time it needed to go through something like the back of a cabinet. I then transitioned from plastic to copper using plastic push fit valves, that when in things like the cabinets that house the washbasins, sinks etc are pretty much flush with the back of the cabinet interior, so you don't see the plastic pipe. It did mean having slots in the plasterboard behind units where the plastic pipes came out, but these are hidden from sight and the guys doing the plastering didn't have any problem just cutting slots to allow the pipes to poke out. I'd left the plastic pipes too long, and taped over the ends with red or blue electrical tape, to keep the muck out and show which was hot and cold.

i would have put money on it

Couldn't resist.... 5 equi spaced, 6mm holes starting 50mm from the end. Mitre bonded one end cap on. Foamed the bottom hole then when it started coming out of the second hole up foamed into that and so on. Then lightly clamped a bit of ply on without compressing anything:

Think more widely on that one...nice drive, day shift, whiskey, nice sleep, big breakfast. One more half shift, home for tea. Might be the best two days ever!

Twas I! I've not actually tried any PiR, just XPS will do tmrw if I get a chance! It does chop xps into flakes but think PiR would yield better results. In the end tho, I gave up and tossed it in a skip we needed any way.

Wasn't that EPS? PIR gives off nasty, itchy, eye watery, fumey.....nastiness as far as I'm concerned. The Devil's own stuff!

I did see somewhere that a chap converts off cuts into poly beads ( I think he used a garden shredder?).

Ebay, I bet it'll go. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kingspan-Offcuts-90mm-thick-/192091018250?hash=item2cb984540a%3Ag%3ASBQAAOSwAvJW8zKA&_trkparms=pageci%3A12a013d1-ea51-11e6-a675-74dbd180ae0b%7Cparentrq%3A05b56e1315a0a5e295e3e638ff9f3a99%7Ciid%3A1 Failing that stick together with low expansion foam to make a big useful sheet.

Stick it on freecycle. I got a car full of offcuts like that and used them to insulate under the floor of our static caravan.

True. But we are going to build a railway so even more people can get to the south east quickly!!! To just make it worse still........................

I too used the Acheson and Glover stuff to do a retaining wall. There blurb says no cals needed upto either 1 or 1.2 depending on the system if i recall correctly. Dead easy to use. I used it because i was very near trees, so long term likely to be some movement which these should cope with and a brick wall wouldn't. I would never build a brick retaining or garden wall again.

Most definitely. I have Siemens ones. They come up almost like new.

Hi and welcome to the forum. You may be aware that there are quite a few in Ireland, north and south on here so you should have a good source of local knowlede as well as general building advice.

You'd prob have more luck chipping away at the quartz

To be honest, I'm not clear on what you mean by this. Do you have a section that shows how it should be, preferably showing the floor/wall junction.

Don't forget Steptoe and OnOff are also electricians. I haven't watched this one yet (I never watch commercial tv live) so haven't yet seen the house. For a normal new build I have never yet exceeded 1 hour labour per point. Assuming expensive fittings and a higher labour rate than mine and an awkward build, then I still reckon that has to be north of 700 "points" Nobody would have 700 points in an ordinary house? So was it some form of home automation system linked to an expensive cabinet of stuff?