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Posted
41 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

I would. First at 1200 to upset the sparks then another at 2400 to catch the edge of the board

 

Depends if you want metal back boxes (that can be fixed to the noggins) or plasterboard ones ?

Posted

1200 is max height for the lightswitches... if you want to put noggins at 1200 then switches in drywall back boxes can always go lower ?

 

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, joe90 said:

Depends if you want metal back boxes (that can be fixed to the noggins) or plasterboard ones ?

 

Whaaaasat? 

Whats the story about back boxes?  Which should I fit? 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, recoveringacademic said:

 

Whaaaasat? 

Whats the story about back boxes?  Which should I fit? 

Metal back boxes securely fitted to dedicated noggins (or maybe the recently introduced adjustable metal noggin system) will be neater, more secure and easier to plaster/skim than plastic drywall types.... but need a bit more planning, skill and time to set up and board around.

 

https://www.edwardes.co.uk/en/products/erico-187191-tsgb24-telecopic-screw-gun-stud-box-bracket?utm_medium=google_shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjws5HlBRDIARIsAOomqA1s5_fSsykExl34rmc7ZovqTTDkVOFDzevTVqehQEZb166xnOhdLX4aAqgwEALw_wcB

Edited by Dee J
Added link for adjustable steel noggins.
Posted
1 hour ago, recoveringacademic said:

 

Whaaaasat? 

Whats the story about back boxes?  Which should I fit? 

 

Time for another thread methinks ?

Posted

I've just fallen foul of this.  I put noggins at 1200 vertical centres on advice of builder, but they stagger with every other one being 1150 to make fixing them with paslode easier...so with 50mm thick noggins the consistent unimpeded height where I can unify top of back box height has resultantly become 1125.  Rules say top of switch max 1200, and depending on switch plate thats approx 25mm lower than top of backbox....so my switches have been pushed down 100mm by my noggin strategy.  Given i'm boarding 2400 vertically i'm gaining nothing having noggins where they are versus set 100mm higher.

Posted

Something like this? Our electrician installed specific noggins for every back box and support required for the electrical 1st fix - he has more tools than the carpenters! He didn't try to use the noggins in the stud walls that were part of the TF

IMG_1526.jpg

IMG_1527.jpg

IMG_1530.jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, Oz07 said:

Did all 3 switches need to be that close he's hacking your studs. God I hate when plumbers and sparks get saws out

 

Yes - two double sockets and a TV coaxial/Cat 6  for TV etc.   One of the the wall is a 1400mm high X 140mm stud wall, which requires zero zero structural integrity.

 

The studs were not hacked. The  carpentry is better than some carpenters work I have experienced.

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Oz07 said:

Did all 3 switches need to be that close he's hacking your studs. God I hate when plumbers and sparks get saws out

 

He could more easily have fitted an extra noggin to the right, shifted everything over a bit and had the stud spacing out the backboxes by 38mm. Studs look plenty chunky enough to take it though.

Posted
1 hour ago, HerbJ said:

 

Yes - two double sockets and a TV coaxial/Cat 6  for TV etc.   One of the the wall is a 1400mm high X 140mm stud wall, which requires zero zero structural integrity.

 

The studs were not hacked. The  carpentry is better than some carpenters work I have experienced.

 

Sound a bit touchy about it tbf! I'd of spaced them out more 

Posted
3 hours ago, Oz07 said:

Did all 3 switches need to be that close he's hacking your studs. God I hate when plumbers and sparks get saws out

Builders, self-builders and diy-ers often bring this upon themselves. Electricians and plumbers often find themselves brought into a fait accompli of structure and studwork where little or no consideration has been given to location of services, and with a limited time and budget for first fix. At least as an electrician I have some options on cable runs. Seen some awful drainage runs where the plumber has been boxed into a near impossible situation. A favourite challenge is the steel entirely filling a void right across the middle of a building with closely spaced timbers either side.

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Dee J said:

Metal back boxes securely fitted to dedicated noggins (or maybe the recently introduced adjustable metal noggin system) will be neater, more secure and easier to plaster/skim than plastic drywall types.... but need a bit more planning, skill and time to set up and board around.

 

https://www.edwardes.co.uk/en/products/erico-187191-tsgb24-telecopic-screw-gun-stud-box-bracket?utm_medium=google_shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjws5HlBRDIARIsAOomqA1s5_fSsykExl34rmc7ZovqTTDkVOFDzevTVqehQEZb166xnOhdLX4aAqgwEALw_wcB

I asked my sparky  about these --he was in for a puncture repair

"do not use --can cause  condensation  in certain circumstances  and anyway there are plastic versions if you must,but he would go with dry wall boxs or wooden "dwangs to fix too ",as they call them in scotland

Edited by scottishjohn
Posted
27 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

Not used them yet, so interesting to have some feedback. Not sure under which circumstances they could cause condensation, I guess if they somehow bridged to a colder part of the structure...

Posted

47mm back boxes for me every time - just makes all the wiring easy to do, plenty of room.  make life easier.  Ours are all on noggins put in specifically for the job.

 

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