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Gearing Up For A Temporary UFH Buffer


Onoff

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Not sure if it'll save me much in terms of space. I might just get a bit of plasterboard to miss that elbow and be flush with the reveal:

 

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Got a few bits extra, it's not often I treat myself...

 

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Not sure now if I've wrenches big enough to do this!

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3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Not sure if it'll save me much in terms of space. I might just get a bit of plasterboard to miss that elbow and be flush with the reveal:

 

IMG_20201009_181232673.thumb.jpg.a79fd759a1539daeb4d565115c3538f0.jpg

 

Got a few bits extra, it's not often I treat myself...

 

IMG_20201009_181147602.thumb.jpg.163b0958f781d8dacc249f3622160b01.jpg

 

Not sure now if I've wrenches big enough to do this!

It’s Friday just stop ! ? 

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Went to do this and I'm so low on heating oil I'm running on vapours! It can wait until I get the tank filled up. No way am I wasting all that hot water right now.

 

Anyway, I thought I'd cut the pipes ready. Took the window sill out and offered the various fittings up, measuring and cutting the 28mm copper pipe length.

 

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Question: I need wriggle room to get this all in. How important is it that the pipe goes all the way into the Yorkshire? On the elbows for instance the pipe goes in 24mm. Does it matter if it's only in by say 20/22mm once it's all soldered up?

 

Cheers

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Apologies for labouring a point but I can't for the life of me see how this is going to work and keep the two pipe clips on the back wall. 

 

Maybe it'll come right when everything is assembled loose and I can wriggle it into position then solder 3 new elbows.

 

The 28mm 1" elbow is I guess, going to have to have its short section of pipe on and nutted up as it gets wound into the boiler with Loctite 55 on the threads, until nearly level. Then fit the elbow at A and make level. Then fit the long pipe and swing / swivel B & C into position.

 

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I wonder if I could just cut the long pipe back and solder an elbow on or even put a compression elbow on there and avoid disturbing B & C.

 

Tricky to know until I do it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hopefully fitting the Intaklean, new boiler drain and shifting the boiler pipe this week.

 

Whilst it's all drained down I'm wondering whether I should fit a 22mm ball valve each end of the white plastic pipe that lies just under the floor and that I'll be tapping off of later. This end and the other is copper. 

 

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B@llocks! When the CH is on its like there's a little tune being played in the pipework, a regular tappity tap noise. Guessing the Grundfoss pump? Of course the valves either side are all crudded up! ?

 

20181215_210239

 

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Anyone got any ideas why my oil boiler is taking so long to drain down? Still a steady trickle a few hours after starting.

 

All the power to the boiler is off.

 

I tied up the (new) ball valve so in theory the header isn't filling up any more. Fells like the header is drained to below the outlet. I can only get my arm over the top to "feel". Feed to the header is a seized 15mm stop cock, mains fed so I've isolated the mains just now.

 

Rads all drained down, I removed some rad bleed screws upstairs and down to speed that up. (Snapped he square head off off one old rad on the downstairs single pipe system and Sod's Law it only has one. A problem for another day).

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3 hours ago, dpmiller said:

blocked drain valve? Boiler full of scale/sludge?

 

I reckon so. Ended up changing the drain cock "live" so to speak. Had the new one all ready to go and taped up. Got a big slug of black water come out but swapped over with not too much mess/bother.

 

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In other news...started late today and still doing it. Stopped for beer and a browse.

 

Fitted the IntaKlean.

 

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Somehow I managed to get the 28mm / 1" elbow into the boiler and an elbow soldered in situ. I just sort of turned the elbow into it's final position making sure not to turn it back. Tightening that compression and something went "bang". Backed the nut off and found a couple of strands of brass thread. Fingers crossed its OK. Lashings of Jet Blue Plus.

 

Hoping too my soldering is OK. Used Templars flux, lead free solder and the blue gas bottle not the MAPP:

 

IMG_20201029_192014501

 

Should make it easier for boxing in:

 

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The one downstairs drain cock on the old single pipe system under the suspended floor was seized solid. New one fitted. Bit of garden hose runs under the floor and through a hole drilled in the wall onto a flower bed. The two original 22mm compressions, I just backed off, removed the PTFE tape and smeared with Jet Blue Plus then re tightened (same olives). 

 

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I then isolated the length of plastic 22mm in the stairs room with a valve either end in the hall/adjacent room. This the pipe I hope to tap off for for my UFH manifold. Water everywhere in the old boot room (now study) despite the downstairs single pipe system being nominally "empty". The pipe runs and floors are at various different levels. Wasn't too fussed about letting it drain under the suspended floors tbh.

 

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I need the wet vac here, just wax building paper on concrete floor of the old boot room:

 

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One git is that I broke off the square bleed screw head on one old downstairs radiator and it only has the one. Tried tapping it round with a hammer and punch but no joy. It broke off I think before it started undoing. just in case it has loosened I smeared some CT1 over it. Going to be a bitch if not impossible to bleed I imagine. Might be easier to change the rad?

 

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Going to have dinner then see about starting to refill and add the cleaner via the IntaKlean. I assume as the system is empty I can just pour 2L of cleaner I have in via the IntaKlean then top up from the header and bleed? The two 2 port and the single mid position valves are all set on MAN at the mo. I think you leave it like that whilst refilling and before firing the boiler up?

 

Or should I maybe re fill and bleed, checking I've no leaks and only thereafter add the cleaner?

 

Cheers 

Edited by Onoff
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Add the cleaner after ;)  

You can cheat that rad by lifting it off its brackets with the valves hand tight ( into the rad not onto the pipe ) and  then run the system with the top of the rad as the lowest part. When full, lock off the rad valves, swing it back up onto the brackets and best you can hope for for now tbh.

Top job with the rest of it ?

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1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said:

Add the cleaner after ;)  

You can cheat that rad by lifting it off its brackets with the valves hand tight ( into the rad not onto the pipe ) and  then run the system with the top of the rad as the lowest part. When full, lock off the rad valves, swing it back up onto the brackets and best you can hope for for now tbh.

Top job with the rest of it ?

 

Ta. About to start refilling now. 

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Taking an age to refill. I can can hear "glugging". 

 

Not getting much air from the rads either upstairs or downstairs. I get a bit but then it stops. Put the screw back and come back 20 mins later then some more air.

 

Sofa time for a couple more chapters on Steve Jobs methinks. 

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29 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Probably the tee connection where the F&E connects is crudded up. Quicker to backfill through a drain off but without making the F&E tank overflow!!

 

22mm copper drops vertically from the header tank and tees into the horizontal 28mm after the air separator and before the pump. The pipe from the F&E has the 3 bits if yellow tape on.

 

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Would the 8bar outside tap do? ?

Edited by Onoff
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