Onoff

Gearing Up For A Temporary UFH Buffer

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The modern rads, 4 upstairs and one downstairs, all the rad valves are open. The old rads downstairs, the remaining 7, I can't move any of the valves at all:

 

IMG_20201107_182029777.thumb.jpg.3934bf68eabc820bb6c18739d73a296c.jpg

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38 minutes ago, PeterW said:

That could be due to pressure from the PFM as they can be pretty fierce. 

 

Talking of pressure, I tried earlier to fill the system via the boiler drain cock before turning on the PFM. The 8bar garden hose pressure was too much for the O ring around the spindle of the drain cock for a start. Then one of the fittings came apart on me...

 

Still at it here. It's coming out a bit brown again. I've a few kg of citric acid sitting here. No bulk hot water available of course but I could dissolve some in a kettle or two full and sling that in the PFM tank. Worth doing?

 

A little worried about neutralising the acid thereafter.

 

I've still got the rad to fit later/tomorrow.

 

Edited by Onoff

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Won’t do it any harm but  you’ll need to just flush it after a while - may be just leaving it and sticking a decent amount of inhibitor in, the magnaclean will do its job. 

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9 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Won’t do it any harm but  you’ll need to just flush it after a while - may be just leaving it and sticking a decent amount of inhibitor in, the magnaclean will do its job. 

 

But will it do any good is the question? Half debating slinging a dishwasher or wm tablet in the reservoir.....

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That will be hilarious ..!! Washing machine will foam everywhere ... 

 

1kg of citric in 3 litres of hot water will so something ... 

  • Haha 1

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6 minutes ago, PeterW said:

That will be hilarious ..!! Washing machine will foam everywhere ... 

 

1kg of citric in 3 litres of hot water will so something ... 

 

😁 

 

I remember some louts years ago doing it to the fountains outside the leisure centre in Dartford!

 

I was suggesting it half seriously. The Kamco manual refers to adding an anti foaming agent to some of their products. Off then to measure a kilo of citric acid and boil some kettles!

 

No need to neutralise after with say bicarbonate of soda or something similar?

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I do have 5L here of Kemiphos Super Blue de-scaler and cleaner that work let me have. Contains 48% phosphoric acid. A bit strong maybe...

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17 minutes ago, Onoff said:

I do have 5L here of Kemiphos Super Blue de-scaler and cleaner that work let me have. Contains 48% phosphoric acid. A bit strong maybe...


well... you will have a good reason to replace all the copper pipes .... most of the brass... the boiler ...... 

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A kilo of citric acid in 3L of hot water working it's way round now...

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Cleared it out yet ..? Still mucky water ..?

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10 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Cleared it out yet ..? Still mucky water ..?

 

Just called it a day I think. The citric acid loosened a load more up. Like I'd just started again!

 

Had a proper flood along the way. Was topping up with the PFM lid unscrewed. Got distracted...went past MAX...wet vac time! 

 

If I dump the waste into a washing up bowl now I can see to the bottom. Ditto in the ScaleBreaker tank. The water has though a greenish tinge as I've noticed happens when I'm using citric acid to derust. Difficult to photograph.

 

IMG_20201107_214426054.thumb.jpg.cec886fe8fe878d4867eeac60433fa6d.jpg

 

IMG_20201107_214432315.thumb.jpg.ade6e96dacc91490c50f90fb58bd065d.jpg

 

Half wondering whether to test the water acidity with some hot tub / aquarium test strips?

 

So...I guess now I disconnect the PFM and put the magnaclean back in. Then drain down via the rads and boiler drain and get on replacing that rad. 

 

Think this might go into tomorrow! 😂

 

 

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That's it for tonight. This more for my own thoughts:

 

-ScaleBreaker disconnected

-vent cap taken off expansion pipe to F&E tank

-IntaKlean2 refitted

-balancing valve opened half way

-drained down from boiler and rads

-last rad & brackets removed. This the one I couldn't bleed as the screw broke off. Mucky as but then I guess it was full of air? Maybe the flushing bypassed it because of this?

 

IMG_20201107_225437531.thumb.jpg.722f09428f2195a2f78cc2e612c1dca5.jpg

 

New rad to fit in the morning.

 

Fingers crossed that 28mm balancing valve doesn't leak..... some hope!

 

Distracted now...Charleze Theron is getting it on with Sofia Boutella in Atomic Blonde...✂️👍

 

Edited by Onoff

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Going to grab a new 28mm gate valve in the morning. Also some inhibitor. Lots to choose from. Any make better than another and how much do I need, a litre?

 

Cheers

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I buy the S’Fix own brand stuff and use 2-3 bottles. 

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Don’t forget the S’Fix one is a 500ml container so you can add it afterwards using the intakleen and only when you’ve finished messing about with rads / valves / leaks etc. I would wait until you’ve got everything running as planned before adding it. 

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25 minutes ago, PeterW said:

I buy the S’Fix own brand stuff and use 2-3 bottles. 

 

Their No Nonsense stuff I presume you mean, they don't sell it anymore! 

 

Pity, I used to rate some of their other own brand gear (like their MDF Primer). Their No Nonsense gun foam is made by Soudal according to the MSDS as an aside.

 

Looking at SF/TS locally:

 

Qual Rad - 1L - £6.96

Flomaster - 500ml - £7.35

Corgi - 1L - £7.48

Sentinel X100 - 1L - £13.99 SF / £11.98 TS

Fernox F1 - 500ml - £14.99 SF /£18.98 TS)

Sentinel X100 - 5L - £51.99

 

Thinking x2 of the Corgi one? Never heard of Qual Rad and not keen on some Flomaster parts I've used (that fall apart). 

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Going to go for x2 1L Sentinel X100 from TS. Plumbing forums seem to rate that and Fernox F1 which is twice the price. 

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Good luck On Off. You are certainly getting a lot of crud out, which can only improve things. Fingers crossed for a toastie warm gaff later tonight.

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I use the Flomasta one as it’s all the same. Don’t forget the F1 and X100 treat the same amount - just different concentrations. 

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I too use the Flomasta inhibitor. Feels, smells and tastes (don't ask!) like any other. 

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New rad in, a tad on the pi$$ but then it matches everything else! It wasn't but it's ended up so...

 

The first two coach bolts that came with the SF rad sheared in the SF supplied red plugs in the rad kit. 8mm hole my ar5e, the top half inch of the plug is a bigger dia! Blue plugs now and my coach bolts, 6 in total. So that's 8 compressions made/remade as I had to tweak one of the T's on the single pipe. I'll be watching them for leaks. Plus the 2 rad rails with 15 turns of PTFE tape on each.

 

IMG_20201108_122727910.thumb.jpg.4f39eaece5243146d143a3f412747c0b.jpg

 

Off to do the balancing valve at the base of the cylinder now.

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Is it a bad idea to reuse olives? Or is half hour with the multi tool the answer? 😂

 

I wouldn't usually but no original fittings here were done up using for instance Jet Blue Plus which I use now. That lubricates as well as seals and allows you to get the joint a bit tighter. New valve's a tad shorter! 

 

IMG_20201108_125820766.thumb.jpg.1c2b0d997db73e84821ed644c8b0397d.jpg

 

IMG_20201108_125828376.thumb.jpg.e6f192f0c86452248019af30af26d1c4.jpg

Edited by Onoff

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It's preferable not too, particularly if the replacement component is of slugjtly different dimensions. A diagonal cut across the olive with a junior hacksaw 3/4 of the way through (being careful not to nick the pipe) and then twisting with a screwdriver will remove the old ones in no time at all. 

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Well it's about bleeding time!

 

Answering my own questions here! 😂 Multi tooled off the 28mm olives. New valve on. Had to "ease" over the copper return pipe in the left. Hence the wooden packer.

 

IMG_20201108_134118986.thumb.jpg.47fe9a8c5311e91780ef5f4acb973b05.jpg

 

Nice fresh water, from a nice clean F&E tank, now refilling the system.

 

A cuppa & something to eat then off leak hunting then bleeding! Just hope the tank fitting and soldered joints where I eased the pipe over hold up. Soul destroying if not.

 

Just realised why occasionally an electric shower is worthwhile. 

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Threads in the nuts look different. As @MJNewton said, junior hacksaw and 2 mins and they will be off 

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