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Gearing Up For A Temporary UFH Buffer


Onoff

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First problem, the original 28mm pipe clips seem pretty short. <25mm from wall to centre of pipe. The IntaKlean isolators are 70mm wide/long. I suppose I could just turn them through 45deg.

 

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I'm going to swap the boiler flow pipe from one side to the other but it's offset by about 20mm. I wonder if the vertical pipe might just move across a tad when the clips are off? Might end up a little off plumb...

 

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Edited by Onoff
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12 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

From the outlet of the boiler union, use a bit of pipe, then a 45o equal bend with an M&F 45o bend directly into that, and have them ascending ( twist them ) until it's minted lamb. Then head across to the bend and up and away. ;)  

 

6 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

If tight for room, have the M&F go into your vertically rising bend, and use a second M&F to rectify ( instead of the equal M&F ). Rotating from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock should take you from zero offset to a full pipe dia worth of offset. 

 

Yorkshire or end feed? Wonder if I'd get a bend in there...I could bend a bit of 28mm at work. 

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3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

 

Yorkshire or end feed? Wonder if I'd get a bend in there...I could bend a bit of 28mm at work. 

The bends ( sets)  would be quite long so I reckon you'd be better off with fittings instead. Either will do, just make sure the old stuff is cleaned well before soldering.

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On 05/10/2020 at 13:34, Nickfromwales said:

Can’t you get on this GHG stuff? 

Has to be a supply+install by a TrustMark registered installer that is willing to do the paperwork to take the GHG voucher. 

The scheme is overwhelmed and finishes in March, so requires action not really working to typical Onoff timelines ?

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6 hours ago, PeterW said:

Still don’t get why you want to change the boiler outlet ..??? It was done like that for a reason ..! are you even sure that is an outlet ..??

 

Because I want to box the boiler in and it's a pita having that pipe there. I can only get a very slim timber frame in level with the window reveal. To have a bit of u shaped pipe sticking out of the wall will look silly. The full height boxing in will be easily removable as an aside. 

 

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I do share your concern despite what Nick says ?) and am thinking "diagonal" flow from bottom right to top left is needed. I might contact Warmflow. My guess is when installed this was just easier and they didn't fancy messing around with or didn't have the 28mm 45deg fittings Nick mentions.  Could be wrong, I'll fire off an email to Warmflow and report back.

 

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3 hours ago, joth said:

Has to be a supply+install by a TrustMark registered installer that is willing to do the paperwork to take the GHG voucher. 

The scheme is overwhelmed and finishes in March, so requires action not really working to typical Onoff timelines ?

 

Nor does it fit with Onoff diy ethos.

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1 minute ago, dpmiller said:

why was a garage/boiler house unit put in the house anyway? A white cased one would only have been a few quid extra at the time...

 

No idea. It's actually in what's a bit of an attached outhouse that's been prettied up. 

 

After a bit of net searching I found, see the top line:

 

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Looks like I won't be moving that pipe then!

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28 minutes ago, dpmiller said:

Recommended doesn't mean you can't , they just don't want stagnant pockets of water in the jacket. If you've plenty of flow on the pump, there's no problem with same-side circulation

Agree. 
But, to keep it ‘as is’ you can just get an angled compression 1”x28mm male union, so you’re exiting the boiler parallel. 
Never surrender.
 

Edited by Nickfromwales
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17 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Agree. 
But, to keep it ‘as is’ you can just get an angled compression 1”x28mm male union, so you’re exiting the boiler parallel. 
Never surrender.
 


reckon that is a 1 1/2” outlet so he’s into the realm of reducers and trying to get the threads watertight and still get the elbow upward ... straight outlet may be safer..!

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34 minutes ago, PeterW said:


reckon that is a 1 1/2” outlet so he’s into the realm of reducers and trying to get the threads watertight and still get the elbow upward ... straight outlet may be safer..!

9_9
Using the PTFE cord I linked earlier, you use the reducing bush that’s already there, and swap the  angled union from straight to angled. You just keep turning until you’re happy it’s wound in sufficiently, and stop when pointing in the right direction. It will be pointing back, not up, so he can reduced the amount of ‘poky-outy’ by cutting the existing final bend off and chopping in a new one behind / in line with the boiler ;)  
Plenty of cord, plenty of pipe jointing goop to lubricate, and jobs a good’un.


Don’t listen to him @Onoff, he’ll have you wearing a skirt next :D 

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The nice man from Warmflow came back to me:

 

"The boiler is best installed top and bottom opposite sides for efficiency reasons to make sure the water is circulating completely through the boiler and not having a hot and cold side, which will happen if the flow and return are piped on the same side.

 

So if you changed the pipework to box the boiler in for efficiency reasons, you would actually be making it less efficient".

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16 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Agree. 
But, to keep it ‘as is’ you can just get an angled compression 1”x28mm male union, so you’re exiting the boiler parallel. 
Never surrender.
 

 

Ta. I reckon I would struggle fitting one of these from your link above:

 

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The logistics...can't see how I'd wiggle it all in without moving the boiler. Guessing the window cill went in after the pipes were soldered. I can see perhaps why it was done with copper and soldered elbows. 

 

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Thinking I'd have to separate at that elbow to the right of my hand, the one without any paint on and re solder...doable but too knackered to think at the mo. The more I try and think the more I think I could do it! ? I'll sleep on it!

 

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?@PeterW, evening...tonight's daft question.

 

I've 2L of system cleaner I want to put into the system.

 

As I understand it, I drain the system, cut a section of pipe out and fit the Magnaclean, the system will be empty so I assume I just close the drain cock and pour in my 2L of cleaner in via the Magnaclean canister with both valves open. When I refill the system it mixes with the 2L of cleaner.

 

I let this run around for however long then drain off and fill with fresh, clean water.

 

However, if in the future I isolate via the valves and drain off to add say inhibitor, the InterKlean canister is less than a litre?

 

Cheers

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8 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Yep it is but you just add 500 mill and put the lid back on, circulate for 30 seconds and do the same again. 

 

Gotcha. I was worried I'd be draining off the cleaner I'd just put in. Roll on Saturday for the drain down then. 

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On 07/10/2020 at 23:40, Onoff said:

The logistics...can't see how I'd wiggle it all in without moving the boiler. Guessing the window cill went in after the pipes were soldered. I can see perhaps why it was done with copper and soldered elbows. 

You cut out that pipework at the right hand corner where you can get to it. Then you got that angled union. Then you dry cut and fit the replacement pipework, then solder it away from the boiler, refit, solder the fitting at the right hand corner and job done.

C’mon, four fat snakes  ??

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