Onoff Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 9 minutes ago, pocster said: Ninja throwing star !! It did cross my mind too! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 That would affect my OCD when you put a 6 pointed hex nut on a design with 4 points on it … Think you need to get some square dome nuts machined too … 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 16 minutes ago, PeterW said: Think you need to get some square dome nuts machined too … I'll print some and spray them silver! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 3, 2021 Author Share Posted July 3, 2021 Little st/st mounting, bezel thing for the video doorbell. Made from an old door kick plate stick welded with 316 rods. Need to knock up an internal plate with a couple of rivnuts on and tack that in: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 13, 2021 Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 Fresh off the laser cutter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 (edited) Throwing stars are illegal Edited July 13, 2021 by markc 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 13, 2021 Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 1 hour ago, markc said: Throwing stars are illegal As an Irish citizen it's a Celtic cross and therefore part of my religious heritage! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 1 hour ago, Onoff said: As an Irish citizen it's a Celtic cross and therefore part of my religious heritage! Whatever it is … very cool, I like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 14, 2021 Author Share Posted July 14, 2021 Yes I know, little things etc! Thanks to @JFDIY for the dome nuts and a member on another forum for the laser cutting! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 7 minutes ago, Onoff said: Yes I know, little things etc! Thanks to @JFDIY for the dome nuts and a member on another forum for the laser cutting! Looks like a satanic cult symbol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 14, 2021 Author Share Posted July 14, 2021 3 minutes ago, pocster said: Looks like a satanic cult symbol Been called worse. Btw your spelling is appalling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: Been called worse. Btw your spelling is appalling. Sorry . I apologise. You are a (expletive deleted) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 Is this finished yet ??? asking for a friend. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 15, 2021 Author Share Posted July 15, 2021 26 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: Is this finished yet ??? asking for a friend. No, this is the new bathroom thread! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 19, 2021 Author Share Posted July 19, 2021 (edited) I've got my galvanised gate track all bolted down (years ago) to the concrete footing strip and it's fine. Stainless coach bolts in Fischer plugs: The drive is a long way off of being done (paved, gravel etc, tba). "For now" ? I've just a line of pavers either side of the rail. The bottom edges of the blocks however are resting on the bottom flange of the trach and/or coach bolt heads. I could do with notching or chamfering the bottom corners so the blocks sit lower where they meet and closer to, the rail. At the moment the gap fills up with crap. Would a wet tile saw work to cut these as in the one I used for the bathroom tiles? I mean it's a diamond blade etc... This is my one but pretty sure I can borrow one where the blade is on a rise and fall and comes up out of the bed. Edited July 19, 2021 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 I would have thought you would lose the flange in the depth of the bedding material - mortar or whatever. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 Don’t over complicate things, as punter said 10-15mm bed and they will be lifted high enough. You could however ever get a laser from the lads at NASA to cut them. Or why not cast cast your own pavers, you could make a mould and cast them with a notch. Hold on didn’t you just do that for something else. ??? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 22, 2021 Author Share Posted July 22, 2021 On 19/07/2021 at 14:03, Mr Punter said: I would have thought you would lose the flange in the depth of the bedding material - mortar or whatever. This is it now. Just some loose laid pavers against the gate track. It gets mucky and makes the gate stiff to open over this section. I must measure the relative heights; block thickness and track height but I need to sink those block edges down a fraction. Pretty sure even a little extra track height would help keep it clean. I'm thinking the blocks abutting the track can eventually just sit there with no bedding underneath, held in by the ones at the side and the sand between the blocks. Worst case I'll have to raise the track on some st/st packs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 31, 2021 Author Share Posted July 31, 2021 Half a plan today then to get the cast cap stones on top of the gate pillars. They're very, very heavy and my lad is more keyboard warrior than lifty, shifty site animal! I'll likely borrow some kwikstage esque scaffold from a neighbour. Better than the time honoured, two dodgy step ladders! Main worry is the mix... The pillar mortar was 4:1 opc/builders sand and of "bricklaying" consistency. Figuring to bed the cap stones on it's got to be drier so as not to compress too much and squidge out the sides. Also we need to be dropping (gently) the cap stone straight down atop the mortar and limit the side to side jiggling, again to limit dislodging the mortar. How dry is too dry for the mortar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 It won’t squash out - you need it to be wet to bond otherwise it will just sit on the mortar and not bond to it and stay loose. You’ll lose some down the sides but if you’re worried just wrap some cardboard around the tops first. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 31, 2021 Author Share Posted July 31, 2021 2 hours ago, PeterW said: It won’t squash out - you need it to be wet to bond otherwise it will just sit on the mortar and not bond to it and stay loose. You’ll lose some down the sides but if you’re worried just wrap some cardboard around the tops first. Cheers. Just setting up now for the first one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 31, 2021 Author Share Posted July 31, 2021 (edited) Done. Mortar was a bit sloppy on the second cap so the bed is a bit thin (but we were rushing cos of the lightning! ? ) Drip bead feature seems to work! Waiting for the storm to pass as so we can wheel the scaffold up the road back to my neighbour. Edited July 31, 2021 by Onoff 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 Looks good fella. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 11, 2021 Author Share Posted August 11, 2021 Gave the pillar caps a coat of Bulls Eye 1-2-3. Masked off as best as. Hoping that none has leached through onto the brickwork. Really hoping the neighbours don't think I read the Daily Star or whatever rag it is I used to mask: Black paint next. Also made a sheet metal folder o/of scrap, a couple of Range Rover valve springs etc so I could redo the stainless shroud for the IP video intercom. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 13, 2021 Author Share Posted August 13, 2021 3 coats of Sandtex microseal on the pillar caps over the course of the day. Not too bad except for a white line underneath where the white primer bled under the masking tape. Maybe touch that up later with an artist's brush: Not so sure it was in fact a good idea to prime first with the 1-2-3. Cleaning the brush/roller out I used the left over paint on a cast panel I made with a left over cap mix. No primer on that and the Sandtex went on "better". Was going to break this up for the hardcore pile but reckon we'll 3D print some house numbers, paint them and CT1 them on. Time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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