Build has descended into a xxxx show

[flanagaj]

As some of you predicted, our self build has turned into a disaster.  We’ve now parted ways with bricklayer number two.  Choosing a ground bearing slab was a dumb idea and beam and block would have enabled everything to run more smoothly.

 

i think the bricklayer could have made things simpler by not building up the internal walls the past the block course.  This has now made the Radon membrane detailing more tricky and expensive, due to the number of internal door ways.  I also feel it’s going to be difficult to lay the slab as the open door ways will mean you have different levels for tamping off.

 

I am contemplating taking the internal walls down to the top block course.  What do people think?

 

I don’t want any hate.  So if you’ve got nothing constructive to say, please don’t comment.  I’ve been contemplating deleting my BH account.

 

[G and J]

We didn't have as many internal walls (open plan), and being timber frame /no radon barrier /different construction may not be helpful , but we did exactly that....popped off some of the internal walls to allow slab/insulation etc to be much easier and then rebuilt internal walls off slab (we did check it out with both our SE and timber frame supplier). Felt like a backward step at time, but was worth it for later simplicity... self build unfortunately does feel like a steps forwards can be followed by steps back

[flanagaj]

27 minutes ago, G and J said:

We didn't have as many internal walls (open plan), and being timber frame /no radon barrier /different construction may not be helpful , but we did exactly that....popped off some of the internal walls to allow slab/insulation etc to be much easier and then rebuilt internal walls off slab (we did check it out with both our SE and timber frame supplier). Felt like a backward step at time, but was worth it for later simplicity... self build unfortunately does feel like a steps forwards can be followed by steps back

Ok. There is some reassurance that undoing work can make things simpler.  The required preformed Visqueen internal door openings will be circa £500 alone.  Let alone the additional required taped joints.

[JohnMo]

I did mine almost the same as yours, but stopped doing block work at dpm level. Then backfilled floor to get a level site. This allowed the DPM to be installed and taken up the external walls.

 

Above you can see where my internal wall block work stops

DPM in place with rebar ready for concrete pour.

 

Once you have poured your concrete, you build the internal walls up from the concrete directly above your foundations.

 

This image show the top of the stub structural walls (after floor insulation and UFH added and prior to floor being poured)

 

 

You have just carried away and built too high.

 

You need detailed drawings and make sure your workers understand them. Suspect you need to remove the engineered bricks and Marmox blocks only, depending on where you have defined the DPM/DPC levels

[Andeh]

Sorry to hear it OP, these houses can be such a massive emotional and physical heavylift.... But the shitshow will be temporary and the satisfaction and enjoyment is a lifetime. 

 

I promise you it is all worth it in the end, but you do need to smile and endure.

 

 

[Mr Punter]

I have often had to reduce some wall heights or taken down sections built with wrong DPC.  You should be able to reuse the Marmox, which is good considering the price!  Ground bearing slab is nicer in the winter as you don't have freezing air circulating underneath.

 

So is it MOT, gas membrane, concrete, insulation then screed or are they in a different order?  Either way I can't see too many issues that can't be worked around.

[flanagaj]

1 hour ago, Mr Punter said:

I have often had to reduce some wall heights or taken down sections built with wrong DPC.  You should be able to reuse the Marmox, which is good considering the price!  Ground bearing slab is nicer in the winter as you don't have freezing air circulating underneath.

 

So is it MOT, gas membrane, concrete, insulation then screed or are they in a different order?  Either way I can't see too many issues that can't be worked around.

Yes.  Slab build up is as you have stated.  Taking down the internal 3 courses won't take long and it will help considerably with gas membrane installation and concreting.

[Nickfromwales]

If Radon is known to be a ‘high’ level, then I assume detailing the way that membrane is closed off correctly (as shown) would be a major issue here; not just time / cost, but in having this executed perfectly (BCO and warranty eyes will focus on this quite intensively if the risk is significant).

 

Try knocking a couple of the common bricks off to see how well the Marmox breakers have adhered, as on a previous project you didn’t have to do much more than sneeze for these to come loose (tripped over a few and that was enough to dislodge them, prob too dry a bedding mix).

 

No hate here, just sometimes replies are raw and ‘to the point’ as folk simply want to give you advice / information / direction as best they see it; often not allowing for the state of the recipient at that exact moment, which obvs does get taken the wrong way sometimes.
 

No deleting accounts, take a breath and relax as the support here will help to get you over the finish line, you just need cut through the noise and get to the bits which you find relevant / helpful. Nobody here doesn’t want you to succeed, it’s simply not that type of forum.  .

 

If you have high levels of Radon then be aware that the rising ducts / pipes etc need to be detailed meticulously, something discovered on a current client's project. Top hats are slid over the soil pipes etc, are taped to the Radon barrier, and nave to be Jubilee clipped to form the correct detail.

 

[flanagaj]

Just now, Nickfromwales said:

If Radon is known to be a ‘high’ level, then I assume detailing the way that membrane is closed off correctly (as shown) would be a major issue here; not just time / cost, but in having this executed perfectly (BCO and warranty eyes will focus on this quite intensively if the risk is significant).

 

Try knocking a couple of the common bricks off to see how well the Marmox breakers have adhered, as on a previous project you didn’t have to do much more than sneeze for these to come loose (tripped over a few and that was enough to dislodge them, prob too dry a bedding mix).

 

No hate here, just sometimes replies are raw and ‘to the point’ as folk simply want to give you advice / information / direction as best they see it; often not allowing for the state of the recipient at that exact moment, which obvs does get taken the wrong way sometimes.
 

No deleting accounts, take a breath and relax as the support here will help to get you over the finish line, you just need cut through the noise and get to the bits which you find relevant / helpful. Nobody here doesn’t want you to succeed, it’s simply not that type of forum.  .

 

If you have high levels of Radon then be aware that the rising ducts / pipes etc need to be detailed meticulously, something discovered on a current client's project. Top hats are slid over the soil pipes etc, are taped to the Radon barrier, and nave to be Jubilee clipped to form the correct detail.

 

We only require 'Basic' Radon protection as we are in a 3-5% area.  The one issue I've got is that the membrane sits at the same level as the coupling on the rest bend.  No idea how I'm going to solve that problem.  But the top hats I purchased won't work.  I think Juta do a liquid rubber that you create a dam and pour.  The top hats are great for soil pipes in the middle of a room, but not so when your soil pipe is in the corner of a room.  

[Square Feet]

I don't have any real advice other than to hang in there. I'm sorry it's tough just now. Sometimes a couple of hours away walking along a beach or something can help. It's a lot easier to pick yourself up and carry on again after. You'll sort it and move on from this.

[BotusBuild]

Pause, sit back, breathe deeply.

 

Now your relaxed, read the advice, research solutions e.g. the resting bend collar issue, and work out your plan of action.

 

Write it all down, and cross it off as you go. This is satisfying as you can see progress.

 

Regarding the brickie. From the picture it looks like what he's done is good work. Unless you have had a major falling out with angry words exchanged, it may be worth eating a little humble pie and asking them to return when needed.

[Oz07]

Taking off few courses is easiest. There may be an alternative though. How much higher is ffl than the top of your current blockwork level. Instead of the planned buildup can you not do mot, dpm, insulation, gas membrane, self compacting concrete slab. No screed needed and brings your membrane level up higher so stripping off less masonry or maybe none?

 

Why have you sacked brickie 2 is it to do with this or something else?

[Gone West]

This setback will be pushed to the back of your memory surprisingly quickly. We had an insulated slab laid, which the workers cocked up badly and the whole lot had to be cut up and replaced. Just keep plodding on.

[Nickfromwales]

2 hours ago, flanagaj said:

We only require 'Basic' Radon protection as we are in a 3-5% area.  The one issue I've got is that the membrane sits at the same level as the coupling on the rest bend.  No idea how I'm going to solve that problem.  But the top hats I purchased won't work.  I think Juta do a liquid rubber that you create a dam and pour.  The top hats are great for soil pipes in the middle of a room, but not so when your soil pipe is in the corner of a room.  

There’s a self-adhesive ‘peel and stick’ detail strip, on a roll, which I applied to these right awkward bastards:

 

 

 

 

 

LINK
 

Note we added stainless jubilee clips for belt & braces as Radon was v high.