Garden wall: DPC ?

[ToughButterCup]

Just about to build the wall connecting our house to the piggery. The wall has a full-on foundation, piles and all (for which there is no need, but thats another story)

 

This is the junction between the house and the wall. You can see the DPC and radon barrier in the house. The wall hasn't been poured yet. (empty Durisol blocks)

 

You can see the EPS300 butting up to the Durisol block.

 

There's a 100mm + gap to make up  the wall to the house DPC level. As it's a garden wall, there's no need for the horizontal DPC is there....?

But should I run some DPC vertically between the house and the garden wall?

[nod]

No no need Ian Just bolt a stainless wall profile to the house so that you can tie each course in

 

Somthing else I have surplus if you want it

[Russell griffiths]

Hmn had to think a bit about this without sounding like a c##k 

i think I may do this the opposite to what @nod has said. 

 

To work out out how to do things correctly sometimes you need to look at what has failed in the past. 

Garden walls or other exterior structures attached to the house can be a path for damp. 

 

In a former life I've I spent a lot of time looking for reasons things had failed damp was always a big thing we had to look into. 

 

How are you finishing the the top of the wall? What is preventing rain hitting the top of the wall and bouncing against the house. 

 

How are your durisol blocks being finished they look to be a bit porous, are they?

How are you providing the rainscreen layer for the house. 

 

Two ways to look at it

1.you are building a big bridge across the damp course and a route for damp penetration 

2. Is always been done like this tie it in slap some render on it go to pub it will be fine. 

Hope that didn't sound to c##k like. 

[PeterW]

If they meet corner to corner and that will be a single render panel then I would look to break the joint and put a movement / expansion gap at that point. Render up to both sides of it with a stop bead and then fill the gap with a suitable sealant. 

 

Use something like this with the end bent up. 

 

https://www.twistfix.co.uk/slip-ties

[ProDave]

Do NOT use a DPC on a garden wall.

 

On the occasions I have seen a brick garden wall blow over in a storm, it always topples at the DPC which created a weak bond to the brick.

 

Probably not an issue with ICF a you would be filling it?

[Onoff]

I'd not attach it to the house but build a pier that end and have a gap. Do after the house wall is finished.

[Russell griffiths]

If this is just a garden wall. I.e. No roof, then finish the house exterior up to nearly ready for paint and then think about garden structures. 

 

Any reason for building it now?

i bet if you put it in you will find it will be in the way to do jobs on the rest of the house. 

 

Im going to go way out on a limb here, but try not to go around doing jobs just because your capable of doing that bit and avoiding the bits that need doing but your a bit stuck on. 

 

Hows the house going and piggery, 

 

Obviously you need to have all the outside bits in your grand plan in case you need to run services or put footings in but keep them in a schedule in line with the rest of the build. 

 

Edited November 19, 2017 by Russell griffiths

[Brickie]

+1 to Russell-personally I'd run a vertical Dpc at the junction & make it a movement joint. 

[ToughButterCup]

4 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

If this is just a garden wall. [...]  but keep them in a schedule in line with the rest of the build. 

 

Exactly right. 

 

I have a two week window in which to get bits and bobs done, and this wall is one of the issues to sort out. The main game is getting the First Fix organised.

And I thought a wall would be  p1ss easy (given the ICF experience I now have) . I was going to get the wall up and done in an hour or two first thing in the morning and last thing during the day. You know, like normal self-builders who have a full time job and build their houses. But, but, but.

 

The creation of a wall would also give me an outside, but undercover work area that - most importantly - is in a wind shadow. 

 

 

[ToughButterCup]

11 minutes ago, Brickie said:

+1 to Russell-personally I'd run a vertical Dpc at the junction & make it a movement joint. 

 

That's a decision, then. @nod, you've been out-voted, mate.

(PS, I still owe you half a days labouring.)

[ToughButterCup]

6 hours ago, ProDave said:

[...]

Probably not an issue with ICF a you would be filling it?

 

Yes; with rebar and all the works, plus newt bridge and built in lighting and built in drainage.

[PeterW]

@recoveringacademic if it’s a movement joint then you need to use a wall starter that has slip joints on it and render / point as I suggest otherwise it will crack the render ....

 

Or have you finished it already ..??

[ToughButterCup]

Wall starter? Whasssar?

[Russell griffiths]

Wall starter. Why?  

 

Why would you want a garden wall joined to the house. 

Has it been on the sherry? Can't it stand up on its own. 

 

I would not want to penetrate the outer weather proof surface of the house with anything. 

Starter bars bits of reo wall ties nothing. 

Finish the house and build the garden wall up completely independently. 

If you don't want a gap you can fill it with a flexible mastic but I don't see the need to have it tied to the house. 

 

[Nickfromwales]

Why conjoin them @recoveringacademic? Can't you build them detached and dispense with the concerns brewing here ? 8" gap between the two would suffice. 

[Ferdinand]

One other option is to put the pedestrian gate there if you need one.

[ToughButterCup]

10 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

[...] If you don't want a gap you can fill it with a flexible mastic but I don't see the need to have it tied to the house. 

 

Cheapest, quickest, easiest.

The cheque's in the post @Russell griffiths.

Thanks everyone for helping me think this through. Much appreciated..