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Timber cladding


Thedreamer

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Yes, I'm half clad in Oak (other half Sapele).

 

For European Oak, fresh-sawn feather edge 27 x 175 (2.5m - 3.5m lengths), I paid £2.48 per linear m delivered on a 1,500m order.

 

I thought the price was very competitive.

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Untreated Larch should be in at the £1.30-£1.50 a metre or £14 a cubic foot. Oak will be around £2.30 so £20 a cubic foot for 6” feather edge board.

 

It depends on what you want to achieve - larch is limited on size to about 8” board and then goes up in price, oak can be had up to 12” with a waney edge for a similar price. 

 

Machining for T&G or shiplap will add 50% to the price normally - again, depends on the look you are looking for. 

 

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15 minutes ago, Crofter said:

Just FYI, I used 100x20mm larch. Cost 75p/m inc VAT direct from Novaar sawmill on the Black Isle- although that was about a year ago.

 

What cladding profile are you going for?

Oh that's good to know.  they are my local sawmill, about 5 miles away.

 

But not on the Black Isle, wrong side of the Cromarty Firth. ;)

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30 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Oh that's good to know.  they are my local sawmill, about 5 miles away.

 

But not on the Black Isle, wrong side of the Cromarty Firth. ;)

Haha yes good spot, I got confused because my other timber-themed road trip was to a Black Isle sawmill for massive Douglas Fir beams. I did all these trips with a trailer made out of an old caravan which cost less to buy than a day's hire of a flatbed.

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15 hours ago, Crofter said:

Just FYI, I used 100x20mm larch. Cost 75p/m inc VAT direct from Novaar sawmill on the Black Isle- although that was about a year ago.

 

What cladding profile are you going for?

 

Not really sure at this stage, need to do some more research.

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We used locally sourced (as in from a saw mill 3 miles away, and trees grown 6 miles away) waney edge larch.  Nice wide boards, generally between 200 and 300mm wide, some wider, and 20mm thick.  The price was roughly half that of oak, and there was no requirement to use stainless steel fasteners, as there would be with oak, galvanised nails were fine.  Additionally, the larch didn't need pre-drilling for nails, where often oak does, especially near the edges.  All told, larch was probably around 1/3rd the installed cost of oak, with an estimated life of at least 50 years, the first 20 years without treatment, then clear preservative applied every ten years after that.  There are larch clad barns around here that are well over 100 years old, have never been treated, and are generally in good condition.  Where there are problems it's inevitably only the lower couple of boards, from rain and mud splash back, I suspect.

 

The chap at the saw mill was helpful, and reckoned larch was very under rated as cladding, as in his experience it was almost as durable as oak, easier to fix, less liable to move around in the first few years after fixing and half the price of oak.  He would have happily source oak for me, but felt I'd be wasting money by using it!

 

 

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@JSHarris Have you had any black streaks from the galv nails? From my research I concluded that it was best to use stainless. I used a coil nailer and was lucky to source 70mm nails off eBay at a very good price- I actually had to pay more for the 45mm ones that I needed elsewhere.

 

A friend of mine had an extension clad in larch using galv nails, and almost every one has left a little black mark about an inch long. Possibly where the zinc was chipped off the nail head by the firing pin.

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1 hour ago, Crofter said:

@JSHarris Have you had any black streaks from the galv nails? From my research I concluded that it was best to use stainless. I used a coil nailer and was lucky to source 70mm nails off eBay at a very good price- I actually had to pay more for the 45mm ones that I needed elsewhere.

 

A friend of mine had an extension clad in larch using galv nails, and almost every one has left a little black mark about an inch long. Possibly where the zinc was chipped off the nail head by the firing pin.

 

 

No, none at all.  I used ordinary galvanised gun nails and none have left any marks.  The cladding has been on for three years now, and been exposed to a fair bit of wet weather on the West gable.

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On black streaks, it might depend on the wood, some have more aggressive oils or tannins as I understand it. We have Canadian Western Cedar cladding and did not use stainless nails, it showed streaking within a few months.

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Have done an outbuilding in oak. I've been treating it intermittently with Ronseal General purpose wood preserver (light brown) applied using a Hoselock plant sprayer intended for water. The sprayer only survives one or two coats but it's only slightly more expensive than a paintbrush and way faster with fewer drips. The windows are also oak and I just spray over them glass and all then clean off the glass with spirit.

 

I went for stainless steel nails but regret using plain heads. You want textured heads to prevent/reduce reflections.

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We were told to use stainless mails on our larch cladding, or face a high likelihood of staining. The supplier insisted on this even though we weren't buying the fixings from them.

 

Might it make a difference whether local or Siberian larch is used? We had the latter.

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1 hour ago, jack said:

It also has a high silica content, I believe, meaning it blunts tools pretty effectively.

 

 

I think you're right, as I remember the old chap at the sawmill telling me they didn't much like milling larch, because it wore the blades out pretty quickly.

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