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I can't drill straight holes for the life of me

Featured Replies

My walls are made of concrete and AAC. Until now, I never really needed much precision. However, my holes are never parallel or straight.

 

I’ve got some floating shelves that I need to attach. I figured I’d put together a jig like this guy from YouTube (though upon rewatching, I noticed he’s only using glue). As I was trying to drill through these boards, I realized that I’m not very good at measuring accurately through wood also.

 

I feel a bit overwhelmed by this. It can’t be that hard; many people do it. Now, I’m just sitting here, looking at the shelves and waiting for ideas on how to install them without them being crooked.

 

res_b9dcf5c549ab3a769aacbbea38463255.jpg

Screenshot 2023-10-21 104510.jpg

Get a small level and hold it on the drill bit, you get them about 60mm or so long.

 

experience will then tell you when you are holding the drill correctly, or get someone to look at the drill from the side

I would say that most people, including me, don’t drill (or nail) very straight. That usually doesn’t matter and often makes things stronger.

 

The usual solution, for smallish items, is a drill press.

 

For larger items or items that can’t be moved there’s a device that can be fixed to a hand drill. These are not precision, but they help. Buy a good one, the cheap ones are a waste of time.


e.g. Wolfcraft 4525404 Multi-Angle Drill Guide Attachment 

 

Hi @DanBog are you struggling with setting out where to drill your holes or just concerned about drilling them straight 

p.s. there’s a third option - a ‘drill guide’. Usually aluminium with hardened drill bushings. This kind of thing, or without the vice (I picked this one at random).

 

Drillpro 3 In 1 Adjustable Woodworking Doweling Jig Kit Pocket
 

You can find some much cheaper and simpler ones. Also, you can make your own cheap version of this with a flat bit of 2x6 or aluminium block and your mate’s drill press. Probably accurate enough for your needs. Hardened bushings optional, but add some accuracy.

Few people can drill straight holes free hand. My dad taught me to make a drill block guide using two bits of wood to create a 90° angle. You then just place the bit in the corner. 

It’s the rest that’s on the piss 🤣🤣🤣

Has nobody mentioned making a jig?

 

You want to drill 2 holes in the shelf, and 2 holes in the wall, exactly the same distance apart and level.

 

So take one bit of scrap wood, at least as long as the distance between the to holes plus a bit.

 

Mark the holes on that bit of wood and drill a hole the size you want. Making sure the marking is accurate, and before starting to drill the hole make a centrepunch mark, ideally with a centrepunch failing that a nail, hold the point exactly on your pencil park then hit it gently with a hammer to make a dent to stop the drill wandering.

 

Then use the jig to drill the holes in the shelf and the holes in the wall, getting an assistant to hold the jog dead level on the wall before drilling.

8 minutes ago, ProDave said:

getting an assistant to hold the jog dead level on the wall before drilling.

Could make the jig a bit longer, drill two extra holes in it, and the wall to hold it level. Then drill the other holes in the right place.

Oh hang on.

  • Author
17 hours ago, ProDave said:

Has nobody mentioned making a jig?

This is a great idea, I actually have a longer piece of OSB that I can use for this, it'll also help me drill at the same distance for all my shelves.

When starting any hole, but especially into something unpredictable like masonry, drill a very small hole with a hand drill first, just to mark the spot securely so the real drill can't skid about.

14 hours ago, Cliffpope said:

When starting any hole, but especially into something unpredictable like masonry, drill a very small hole with a hand drill first, just to mark the spot securely so the real drill can't skid about.

The advantage of speed controlled hand drills nowadays, start very slowly and it won’t skid.

There's this type too:

 

IMG_20211027_222250993

 

I got my lad to print an adapter to exactly fit the Makita cordless:

 

IMG_20211027_235032472

 

For accurate "edge" drilling though he'll print guides for that particular board thickness that clip over the edge.

2 hours ago, Onoff said:

For accurate "edge" drilling though he'll print guides for that particular board thickness that clip over the edge

I think that is about the first thing I have heard of that makes it worthwhile getting a 3D printer.

Used to spend months making drilling jigs when I was an apprentice, then looked at the CNC machining centre and wished I could work that.

20 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

I think that is about the first thing I have heard of that makes it worthwhile getting a 3D printer.

Used to spend months making drilling jigs when I was an apprentice, then looked at the CNC machining centre and wished I could work that.

 

Routing jigs, coil formers, knife blocks, helical milling jigs, rubber feet for drainers...

 

I can't count the practical things we use it for, in use every day. 

 

IMG_20230928_051926732

 

2023-01-22_11-09-04

 

IMG_20230414_164330958[1]

 

IMG-20230314-WA0019

 

20230125_191049

 

On 28/10/2023 at 11:15, Onoff said:

 

IMG_20230414_164330958[1]

 

Knifes should be sharp edge upwards to stop them blunting.

1 minute ago, SteamyTea said:

Knifes should be sharp edge upwards to stop them blunting.

In wood?

41 minutes ago, joe90 said:

In wood?

Yes, it is just good practice.

 

Wear, between dissimilar materials is proportionate to their hardness difference ratio at low speeds.

So if the the knife has a hardness of 10 and the timber is 2, the knife will wear at 1/5 the rate of the timber.

Edited by SteamyTea

What about chopping boards? Surely will blunt knives more than a holder 🤷‍♂️

3 minutes ago, joe90 said:

What about chopping boards? Surely will blunt knives more than a holder 🤷‍♂️

Yes, but as I said, it is good practice.

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