Long worktop run

[Pocster]

Getting ready ( ok it’s months away ) to fit the kitchen .

All easy enough I think but there is a long worktop run around 3m with a return of around 1m

Right in the middle of the room so not a lot to fix to . Can’t bolt to the floor as ufh . Was thinking of some kind of timber brace that runs under this run - but not sure of best approach. Appreciate once quartz worktop is on it ain’t moving anywhere but feel much happier if this L shaped set of units is mofo solid without worktop .

[Pocster]

Easier I guess with a piccy 

 

[joe90]

4 of these (one in each corner) of every cabinet join https://www.screwfix.com/p/inter-screws-m4-x-10-pack/65152

 

perhaps a length of 3x2 screwed underneath along the front (behind where the feet will go) and one along the back underneath 🤷‍♂️.

[ProDave]

I would not rely on the standard plastic cabinet feet to secure a peninsular unit like that.  Okay when the units are along and fixed to a wall, the feet just take the weight.

 

A joiner I know and respect never uses the standard plastic feet, instead he makes a rigid "box" for the cabinets to sit on, far more stable.

[Pocster]

32 minutes ago, joe90 said:

4 of these (one in each corner) of every cabinet join https://www.screwfix.com/p/inter-screws-m4-x-10-pack/65152

 

perhaps a length of 3x2 screwed underneath along the front (behind where the feet will go) and one along the back underneath 🤷‍♂️.

The inter screws come with it . But yeah some timber box underneath sounds good 

[TonyT]

Get the thermal camera/ir thermometer and mark between the UFH and fix it down.

[ProDave]

14 minutes ago, TonyT said:

Get the thermal camera/ir thermometer and mark between the UFH and fix it down.

Or do as I am doing with my pantry, use screws that I KNOW penetrate less than the thickness of the flooring used

[Mr Punter]

2 hours ago, ProDave said:

I would not rely on the standard plastic cabinet feet to secure a peninsular unit like that.  Okay when the units are along and fixed to a wall, the feet just take the weight.

 

A joiner I know and respect never uses the standard plastic feet, instead he makes a rigid "box" for the cabinets to sit on, far more stable.

 

I like the plastic feet.  Makes the units easy to adjust and often the plinth clips on.  Once adjusted, two small screws stops them moving.  Also you have lots of space to run cables, dishwasher feeds etc.  I like to have sockets under units on flex, which makes appliances easy to install.

[Pocster]

1 hour ago, TonyT said:

Get the thermal camera/ir thermometer and mark between the UFH and fix it down.

Yeah . That would work in theory . But I’m not brave enough for that !

[Pocster]

47 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Or do as I am doing with my pantry, use screws that I KNOW penetrate less than the thickness of the flooring used

Thought of that . It would have to be real shallow though . Say 20mm for tile , adhesive , decoupling then maybe 10mm into screed ….

I could just gripfill the timbers to the tile floor .

[joe90]

+1, sounds like a good solution without a wall to fix too. 👍

4 hours ago, ProDave said:

I would not rely on the standard plastic cabinet feet to secure a peninsular unit like that.  Okay when the units are along and fixed to a wall, the feet just take the weight.

 

[TonyT]

Use structural silicone 😁

[FuerteStu]

What about using a chaser set at 30mm just back from the kickboard, and set a 25x50mm timber in resin in floor. 

 

Would stay clear of the UFH, and give you a substantial fixing point. Both vertical and horizontal

Edited October 7, 2023 by FuerteStu

[Big Jimbo]

What ever you do, don't drill the bloody floor. Unless the plastic feet are complete cheap shite, they will be fine. 100 plus kitchens fitted with granite on plastic feet. Never had a problem bud 

[Gone West]

14 hours ago, Pocster said:

I could just gripfill the timbers to the tile floor .

I used PU gel glue to stick the ground floor stud wall sole plates to the concrete slab with no problems.

[Pocster]

I’m not worried about the plastic feet . Just don’t want the L of units to move .

[joe90]

13 hours ago, Big Jimbo said:

What ever you do, don't drill the bloody floor. Unless the plastic feet are complete cheap shite, they will be fine. 100 plus kitchens fitted with granite on plastic feet. Never had a problem bud 

We’re any freestanding? It would worry me, having fitted many kitchens, i find the plastic adjustable feet fine in compression but unsure about their stability without a wall 🤷‍♂️

[TonyT]

Built up the underside of they it’s with timber, will give the deco panel something to fix to, do the same behind the kick plate 

muse the feet to level off first then apply timber infill

[Bozza]

We had exact same issue with an island unit 1800x1200, also with quartz worktop. No nails was my friend, to fix the plastic legs to the floor.  The island hasn’t moved.  Frankly it was heavy enough that it probably wouldn’t have moved anyway.  

 

Your peninsular will additionally be braced by the the worktop.

 

if still worried other option would be to construct a timber underneath, no nailed to floor and bottom of cabinets.

 

no nailed legs will be fine though unless your units / legs are poor quality/wobbly. 

 

 

 

 

[Onoff]

I see a lot of raised floor systems sat on adjustable metal feet like this. Instead of being screwed down they bond the feet to the concrete floors with a "puddle" of adhesive:

 

https://www.accessflooringshop.co.uk/products/mfh-007-steel-adjustable-pedestal-support-psa-90-mm-140-mm.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkJzm2ProgQMVV9XtCh3MywAzEAQYAyABEgLpofD_BwE

 

https://www.accessflooringshop.co.uk/products/pedestal-adhesive-voc-free-single-part-9kg-mpa-003.html

[SteamyTea]

Use a PU adhesive on the feet.

There is a glue for everything.

 

Edited October 9, 2023 by SteamyTea