Barney12 Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 Just wondered what people have done in terms of lining plant room walls and ceiling? Board and skim seems entirely pointless and of no use for fixing. So, I was going to go with 22mm OSB on the walls and ceiling and (only if I have time) a couple of coats of white emulsion? What have others done?
Jeremy Harris Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 Mine were partially boarded then covered with fire resistant acoustic foam, the stuff used to line studios, as I thought that there might be some noise from there (it turns out this wasn't needed, really). In my workshop, the walls are lined with OSB and painted. Works well, in terms of being easy to fix things to, but OSB is a pig to paint, even with an airless sprayer. I found I needed to go over the OSB a couple of times with a roller to get the paint to get right into the crevices in the OSB. I think lining with MDF might be a better option. Still easy to screw stuff to, but also a lot easier to paint than OSB.
Barney12 Posted August 31, 2017 Author Posted August 31, 2017 5 minutes ago, JSHarris said: Mine were partially boarded then covered with fire resistant acoustic foam, the stuff used to line studios, as I thought that there might be some noise from there (it turns out this wasn't needed, really). In my workshop, the walls are lined with OSB and painted. Works well, in terms of being easy to fix things to, but OSB is a pig to paint, even with an airless sprayer. I found I needed to go over the OSB a couple of times with a roller to get the paint to get right into the crevices in the OSB. I think lining with MDF might be a better option. Still easy to screw stuff to, but also a lot easier to paint than OSB. Hmmm good point re the painting.
MikeSharp01 Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 Why not use OSB, pattress style, and then cover it with plasterboard to get a crisp finish best of both worlds and it won't be as susceptible to absorbing water as the MDF might if you have any leaks / incidents.
ragg987 Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 I used thick MDF on one wall to hang the MVHR (I think was 28mm, cannot recall, the heaviest we could get). Logic was to minimise sounds transmission of the fans. We just emulsioned the MDF, which works OK other cracklines at the joints. I should have done the same with the opposite wall where the ASHP and pumps are hung, we ended up with using fermacell, pump noise is more prominent.
PeterW Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 Fermacell ..?? Hardwearing, easy to cut and fix and takes paint and screws without a problem ... Heavy boards absorb sound ... Fireproof (60 mins at 15mm) too ... 1
jack Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 We used Fermacell in our plant room. Brilliant stuff for durability and mounting things to. I'm sure it's better than the same thickness of plasterboard for reducing sound transmission, but suspect it works better for airborne noise than for preventing noise from vibration caused by things mounted to it. Our Immersun unit, for example, buzzes under load, and that sound is transmitted quite effectively through the wall. I'll be mounting it on something more resilient in an effort to reduce this. 1
jamiehamy Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 I lined one wall with 18mm Osb since it was going spare - great for just screwing right Into. I've marked where the studs are behind for anything heavy in future.
NSS Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 22mm OSB with 15mm plasterboard over that. One day I might even slap some paint on it. 1
jack Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 12 minutes ago, NSS said: 22mm OSB with 15mm plasterboard over that. One day I might even slap some paint on it. Yes, ours is the only unpainted room in the house!
ProDave Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 Plain OSB in mine. It remains to be seen if BC insist on any paint? I wired a house a few years back where the owners wanted the whole house walls and ceiling finished in OSB. Building control insisted on a clear fireproof paint.
ragg987 Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 5 minutes ago, ProDave said: Building control insisted on a clear fireproof paint. Our final BC inspection was laughable. Chap spent 15 - 20 minutes on site to "inspect" 3 floors and a garage. Half of that time was checking water flow through the underground drain. Some aspect of the build was not quite there - painting, a bit of second fix plumbing and electrics. The inspection prior was before we had boarded up the walls and ceiling and first fix was still in progress, so there were a lot of works in between. He did not find any issues. 1
Tennentslager Posted August 31, 2017 Posted August 31, 2017 (edited) But surely that's good...trained eye drinks it all in, measures up the odd topic to look at. Result...he's not signing an MOT thankfully Edited August 31, 2017 by Tennentslager Typo
Nickfromwales Posted September 1, 2017 Posted September 1, 2017 Fermacell sounds the best option as its fire resistant and you can fix into it. The plant room is one of the places where, IMO, extra consideration should be given regarding fire, so best to completely contain it with FC on the walls and ceiling? Kills many birds with one stone, cheap as two layers ( timber + PB ) and can be painted / looks better naked. 2
Barney12 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Posted September 1, 2017 (edited) Will fermacel take a reasonable bit of weight then? Just screw in, no plugs? Edited September 1, 2017 by Barney12
Nickfromwales Posted September 1, 2017 Posted September 1, 2017 Couldn't tell you tbh. I'd still use a compression type drywall anchor but it doesn't sound like that'll pull away from FC like it does with PB. Suprised that the BCO wouldn't want at least a 3mm skim, for basic conversion of the board to 'non-combustible', same way youre not allowed to hang a combi boiler on wood, or non plastered PB. It either has to be skimmed or an Ellis board has to be screwed on first and then the boiler mounted on that, so beware anyone mounting a boiler.....it can't go on a combustible surface .
PeterW Posted September 1, 2017 Posted September 1, 2017 30 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Couldn't tell you tbh. I'd still use a compression type drywall anchor but it doesn't sound like that'll pull away from FC like it does with PB. Suprised that the BCO wouldn't want at least a 3mm skim, for basic conversion of the board to 'non-combustible', same way youre not allowed to hang a combi boiler on wood, or non plastered PB. It either has to be skimmed or an Ellis board has to be screwed on first and then the boiler mounted on that, so beware anyone mounting a boiler.....it can't go on a combustible surface . So a BCO is going to be sorely disappointed as you can skim Fermacell but it's not needed - it meets all the class requirements for flame spread as an unfinished board so a boiler can happily hang on it with nowt else ... Fermacell will take around 20-25kg per screw without pull out. I've got rads on walls with no plugs, shelves are easy and I think there are some other bits all fine with no plug. Cost is the issue really as it's not cheap and also needs a special screw or staple to fix it to timber as they need a winged head to cut into the board. Very quick and easy to use though - I love the stuff ..!
Mikey_1980 Posted September 1, 2017 Posted September 1, 2017 I lined our plant room wall with 25mm Exterior Ply, with loads of additional of additional studs, painted the ply with fireproof paint as I had a free tin that was sent in error when I ordered paint for our steels, this was then covered with Plasterboard and skimmed. It was overkill, not sure why I went so over the top, probably becuase there was little else for me to get on with at the time as we had trades in but felt I wanted to be doing something.
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