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Recommend me a spirit level please


crispy_wafer

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Approx 1.8 - 2m long.  with a nice tight bubble.

 

I have a long cheap red one from toolstation, but the tolerance in the bubble (in that the gap between the lines and bubble) is quite large, I could do with something a little better so I can double check my studs and openings for plumb.

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Stick some masking tape or tippex etc on your bubble, find a pretty level or plumb surface, put level on surface and mark edges of bubble, spin 180 degrees and mark again, difference between your two sets of marks is true and you have more accurate lines.

The bubble size changes with temp, hence lines usually being too far apart in our climate

Edited by markc
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11 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Even if the lines are away from the bubble you can see if it’s central (equal distance each side).

Yes, that’s true but I need as much help as I can get!  Less than perfect light upstairs in the evening.

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I find an electronic level set on top of an aluminium straight edge works far better. Even the £10 compact one I got from Amazon give better results than either of my long levels.

 

For lengths over 2m I usually just whip out the laser level and use a tape measure to set the opposite end. 

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2 hours ago, markc said:

....

The bubble size changes with temp, hence lines usually being too far apart in our climate

 

Ah! Of course. 🤦‍♂️Thanks for the post .

 

This is my go-to level because

 

PXL_20230803_091555400-EDIT.thumb.jpg.b14b6993540b89cfda0a4840d6509256.jpg

 

  • It has both a bubble and electronic feedback
  • If set to electronic, you can hear when the item is level (the error can be given both in degrees or percentage) - you don't need to look at the level
  • You can use the level upside down - the display automatically compensates
  • The surface of the level allows you to write on it in pencil
  • It has a built in laser (30mm above the base) (wish it had a laser both ends)
  • It is magnetic
  • It can be strapped to a straight edge - levelling a path today with a 3m straight edge ( 3 black slots for velcro straps provided)
  • The level can be used as an inclinometer
  • You can set the level to 'level'  (or another value) when the level is placed on a slight incline  (red turnbuckle on the RHS)

You can 'hold' any value (hold button) allowing you to read the level when the viewport cannot be seen ( measure> hold > view)

 

Yes, it's German, and you'd expect me to buy one. Haende hoch Fritz : I'm biased, I agree.  I am sure that people like Zeiss, Leitz, or Hilti, or Dewalt do levels that are just as good.

If someone drove a digger over mine, I'd have ordered another a few minutes after having stopped swearing. For a self builder, and for me, it's close to perfect

 

46 minutes ago, Conor said:

I find an electronic level set on top of an aluminium straight edge works far better....

 

Exactly.

Edited by ToughButterCup
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21 minutes ago, ToughButterCup said:

This is my go-to level because

£124 ! 

 

Thd more sophisticated, the more likely to become inaccurate if dropped or stood on.

Or can you confirm otherwise?

 

Also it's something to keep to yourself or it will get damaged or disappear.

 

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2 hours ago, markc said:

lines usually being too far apart in our climate

Our, very definitely , former groundworker was adamant that the lines were away from the bubble so that you could line up the bubble with it for pipe gradients. All drains were to go in at this gradient regardless of what drawings might say.

On the bubble as standard. "Off the bubble" for steep.

 

This caused some expense , but it could have been a huge problem. We then  did the bulk of drainage ourselves.

 

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30 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

£124 ! 

 

Thd more sophisticated, the more likely to become inaccurate if dropped or stood on.

Or can you confirm otherwise?

 

Also it's something to keep to yourself or it will get damaged or disappear.

 

 

Yes, it's expensive. I save up and almost never buy at full price. I dug the whole of our foul drainage by hand during lockdown ( 31 cu m) on my own. Groundworks quote - a couple of thousand. Cost to me zero £sd , and a marked improvement in fitness : used the laser every single day.

 

Find me a spirit level level that will project a laser line (at the required incline)  down the inside of a foul drain  .... Yes you can do the job without one. But for a first-timer I kind of 'needed' the support. Now I would just do the job by eye  and straight piece of 2 by 4 .  BCO didn't even ask for evidence or check, or ask for photos. But, the job's right to within a mm or two.

 

You can re-calibrate the laser - and I have done so once (I think) just before fitting the joists. Yes, I molly-coddle it: always keep it away from my children, always in its fabric case.

And I'm annoyed to see that the newer ones  have fewer features - laser is missing as is the micro-adjustment for un-level surfaces.

 

Vorsprung durch weniger Technik? [ tr Progress by using less tech? ] 

I feel an outraged email on its way to Vonjy Rajakoba (Bosch UK Chief Exec)

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1 hour ago, ToughButterCup said:

This is my go-to level because

I used the same one to set my walls heights on a staggered wall, roof is at 12 deg sitting direct on top of wall. Used the Lazer it has, and got the wall heights bob on.

 

You can recalibrate if you need too.

 

I also have a Stanley fatmax, which is very robust and it's used and abused for the last two years.  Had a few expensive ones at the start of the build and managed to break them quite quickly.

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got 2 laser levels, a dewalt red, and a green huepar jobby, they are good I admit, but hurt my eyes a bit.  I normally set the laser about 50 mm parallel with the wall and then run my tape off the studs to check.

 

I popped down to toolstation and grabbed a stabila 1.8m, the lines are tighter to the bubble than the cheapie minotaur one I have which give me a bit more visual feedback and confidence in what I'm seeing.

 

Don't know why, but I've been panicking about my stud walls and door openings and whether they were alright and good for accepting door linings and boards, all in all they were ok, give or take a few mm on the worst offender, I checked them when I built them, but my experience with timber is that unless it's anchored and braced it'll twist,bow and make what looked reasonably decent, look cack overnight.

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5 hours ago, ToughButterCup said:

This is my go-to level

I've got a Bosch DNM120L bought 13 years ago and I also think it's good, especially as an inclinometer, not as posh as yours but didn't cost as much. Don't think they make that model any more.

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