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10mm mortar, or not?


Post and beam

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I am learning that Brickies are used to using 10mm mortar thickness and even have tape measures calibrated to this.

So, where i want to add to the olde worlde look of my potential build i would like to have a wider mortar line. Perhaps 15mm. This of course screws up the brickie's auto mode.

For any brickies out there, is this a stupid idea? is it unusual and or impractical.

I am also learning that window heights and distances from corners to , say, a window frame are often multiples of whole bricks using the 10mm spacing. Potentially making my idea even more eccentric that i hoped.

Comments.

 

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17 minutes ago, Post and beam said:

I am learning that Brickies are used to using 10mm mortar thickness and even have tape measures calibrated to this.

So, where i want to add to the olde worlde look of my potential build i would like to have a wider mortar line. Perhaps 15mm. This of course screws up the brickie's auto mode.

For any brickies out there, is this a stupid idea? is it unusual and or impractical.

I am also learning that window heights and distances from corners to , say, a window frame are often multiples of whole bricks using the 10mm spacing. Potentially making my idea even more eccentric that i hoped.

Comments.

 

 

I have an old house, our mortar beds are actually smaller than that, probably only 5-8mm. We're also changing the windows after they were bastardised in the 70s and were advised "not to break the bond" or fix the bond where it already has been broken, so our new window openings will be in multiples half a brick's length + 8mm mortar joint. 

 

I think there are different types of brickies. Those that only know "that's how it's always done" and those who are willing to adapt and go the extra mile, so if you want to go off piste, you're best finding one of the latter. 

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2 minutes ago, Canski said:

Are you using blocks in the inside ? I am used to laying old imperial bricks ( as well as metric) and the vertical tie spacing can be problematic. 

Its a Potton SIP's house. So timber frame essentially.

If it turns out i am being indulgent and impractical i will have to re think.

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24 minutes ago, Post and beam said:

Its a Potton SIP's house. So timber frame essentially.

If it turns out i am being indulgent and impractical i will have to re think.

No problems with ties on that then. You would just have to make sure the openings work to P&B gauge.  Whatever floats your boat. 

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15 minutes ago, BadgerBadger said:

Could you achieve the same "olde worlde" look by careful choice of brick, maybe lime mortar and a different brick bond, as opposed to trying to increase mortar thickness?

Of course. Happy to take advice on the best option, thats why i am here. A different Bond pattern is something i have already looked at.

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3/8" (9.5mm) bed joints have been used for a few hundred years. Extra wide mortar joints will just look sloppy.

 

Brick choice, mortar colour (not standard grey - go for a lighter lime-appearance) and using snapped headers to create a English or Flemish bond will give it the appearance of age.

 

Edit - didn't see Russell's post. What they said!

Edited by George
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A wall is made of brick, bonded with mortar. Thus too much mortar is not good.

Just in case you don't know (and some "brickies" certainly don't) obtain all the sand and cement you need in one delivery, so that the colour doesn't vary.

Bricks too, and you may need to mix them between pallets as the bricky might not.  Discuss with the bricky, as a good one knows all this.

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With my brick build the bricky used some lime in the mix and it looks good, the joints are about 12mm and the bricks “tumbled” (put in a revolving drum to knock the corners off to make them look old) very pleased with the result.

 

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I met our builder while his bricklayers were building a massive garden wall around a barn conversion. They also said they prefer to use lime in the mix but I don't know if its proper lime mortar (I doubt it) or if they just add lime to a portland cement mortar (which some frown upon). Either way very pleased with the result. They used a section of 1" dowel to strike the portar so not pointed separately. 

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25 minutes ago, Temp said:

I met our builder while his bricklayers were building a massive garden wall around a barn conversion. They also said they prefer to use lime in the mix but I don't know if its proper lime mortar (I doubt it) or if they just add lime to a portland cement mortar (which some frown upon). Either way very pleased with the result. They used a section of 1" dowel to strike the portar so not pointed separately. 

Fairly standard to add lime to portland...gives a strong mix with flex and better ability to breathe. same mix with sharp sand goes as hard as concrete after many years 

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When you say you want a wider joint-do you mean the bed joints (horizontal),cross joints (vertical) or both? 

As above,messing with the standard 75mm gauge will cause you problems with your door & window openings,as the timber frame people will design these to standard brickwork dimensions,unless instructed otherwise. 
Btw the lime added to a cement mix (hydrated) is different to the type you mix lime mortar with (NHL).

Edited by Brickie
Typhoo
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2 minutes ago, Brickie said:

Edited 1 minute ago by Brickie

With apologies if any of my generam comments about "brickies" causes offence. I have encounteted so many so called brickies, plumbers etc, with minimal skill and less knowledge, but the certainty that is attached to ignorance.

Also several who are a source of wonder and delight.

If there is a better way of wording then I will try.

.

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