Barney12 Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 (edited) I need to sort out the fixings for the dormer cladding. Its Cedar so that means stainless steel. My head is telling me to keep away from the Paslode as its a bit cumbersome for detailed cladding work? My weapon of choice in the workshop is a compressed air 18g brad nailer. Super accurate and clean finish but I don't think brads will be up to the job of holding cladding tight? So is it out with the Eastwing (Just to keep @Construction Channel happy) with ring shank and lost head? Something like: https://www.tradefixdirect.com/stainless-steel-nails/a2-stainless-steel-annular-ring-lost-head-nails-60-x-3mm But then I'm also half tempted to screw them. I like screwing things; its feels proper! These could work well: Screwfix Spax Help me decide! Edited July 18, 2017 by Barney12 Changed link to screws Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 How long have you got? and how hard will access be later? if you are on a timescale and can get back to it later brads will probably do the job but there will always be one that kicks that you will have to stick a screw in after a season or 2, if are not on a timescale and you dont want to see the fixings go for the lost heads and a punch (glad to hear you have a decent hammer ) Screws do look nice but they also take a lot longer and you have got to make sure they are all placed the same and perfectly in line, if you are just a little bit off it will look horrendous. last time we did it with screws i made a little jig to make sure the screws were all the same distance from the edges, then there is cost........ if you have time and the budget i would use the screws, in pairs, through the face. countersunk to just below the surface, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 You're right to steer clear of the Paslode- clipped head nails won't look right, and the striking pin will mark the wood. Ideally you want a coil nailer using full head nails. I got mine for £50 off eBay, so they don't have to be expensive, but I already had the compressor and hose. For a small job like a couple of dormers, I would probably just Estwing it... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 I too have used a coil nailer,stainless with a twisted shank, stays in place like a ring shank i will see if I have a couple about for a pic. Do you want a visible head or hidden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 56 minutes ago, Construction Channel said: How long have you got? and how hard will access be later? if you are on a timescale and can get back to it later brads will probably do the job but there will always be one that kicks that you will have to stick a screw in after a season or 2, if are not on a timescale and you dont want to see the fixings go for the lost heads and a punch (glad to hear you have a decent hammer ) Screws do look nice but they also take a lot longer and you have got to make sure they are all placed the same and perfectly in line, if you are just a little bit off it will look horrendous. last time we did it with screws i made a little jig to make sure the screws were all the same distance from the edges, then there is cost........ if you have time and the budget i would use the screws, in pairs, through the face. countersunk to just below the surface, Im not going back on that bloody roof in a hurry. Its nearly killing me So I'm striking brads off the list. I like the jig idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 (edited) 48 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: I too have used a coil nailer,stainless with a twisted shank, stays in place like a ring shank i will see if I have a couple about for a pic. Do you want a visible head or hidden. Dont mind visibile as long as it looks right. They'll have to line up otherwise I'll just get angry every time I look at it! Googling coil nailer just for interest. I won't buy one. Well I might. I like tools. Even the ones I only use once Edited July 18, 2017 by Barney12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Mine is just the el cheapo Clarke jobbie, RRP well under £100, and it's clad my entire house without complaint. Oh and it did all of the sarking and much of the sheathing too. Total spend was around £140 including the (brand new) compressor and hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 If it's T&G cladding then why not brads through the top edge into every batten ..?? Completely hidden and the paslode (assuming it's not a first fix one) will be fine ..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 1 hour ago, PeterW said: If it's T&G cladding then why not brads through the top edge into every batten ..?? Completely hidden and the paslode (assuming it's not a first fix one) will be fine ..! No, its halflap and the advice from the supplier is not to screw or nail the tounge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Can you imagine this in stainless, I fired them out of the coil nailer, but any near the end I pre drilled and banged in with the estwing. I suppose if you need to pre drill a few screws might be better. On my last place I priced to do it in screws and it was £500 dearer than nails. Have you much to do or just the dormers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Just the dormers and about 20m2 so not a huge area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 18 minutes ago, Barney12 said: Just the dormers and about 20m2 so not a huge area. Get @Onoff to hand make you 200 copper screws ..... or more seriously use brass slot head screws but line them up nicely ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 Those Spax st/st ones every time. My mate used this place for his Spax (decking) screws and even with delivery they WERE loads cheaper than Screwfix: https://www.klokow-gmbh.de Don't know about now after the Brexit thing. (Just make sure all the Torx heads are at the same orientation or it'll drive you nuts ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 Went with the Spax stainless in the end. If it would only stop raining I could get it finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 3 minutes ago, Barney12 said: Went with the Spax stainless Looks very nice indeed, I cant see the fixings at all but i assume they look good to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 1 minute ago, Construction Channel said: Looks very nice indeed, I cant see the fixings at all but i assume they look good to 4.5 heads so pretty small. But all perfectly aligned on the h&v 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 6 minutes ago, Barney12 said: Went with the Spax stainless in the end. If it would only stop raining I could get it finished. So that's battens on battens on a rolling tower scaffold on fixed scaffold with no handrails ........ Have you tried skyhooks as a safety harness ..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 4 minutes ago, PeterW said: So that's battens on battens on a rolling tower scaffold on fixed scaffold with no handrails ........ Have you tried skyhooks as a safety harness ..?? No, but the edges are clearly defined with tartan paint I'm up and down those battens like a whores knickers. Not bad for someone who has no lateral movement in his ankles. Mind you if I so much as stand on a pebble and I'm on the floor. It it all adds to the excitement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 I can't complain - we have a 2 board kwikstage attached to the 5 board scaffold at the moment after the scaffolders forgot to put the 21ft stanchions up for the gable lift .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Nothing wrong with trestles and planks on top of scaffold, and the odd stepladder. One has to be flexible (not intended as advice) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share Posted August 5, 2017 The job is done. If anyone is wondering how fast Sioo:x changes the colour of cedar then look at the centre panel (between the windows) which I didn't install until this morning compared to the rest over a week ago. It was hand applied and I seem to remember @iSelfBuild saying that his hand applied Sioo coated cedar went grey very quickly. As I understand it it's rain and sun that accelerates the process and its lashed it down a fair few times in the last week. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iSelfBuild Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 Hi Barney, Yep the hand applied SIOO treated larch has almost bleached. You can see the difference on this video - We DIY applied the SIOO for the fascias. The cladding was done in a factory... they probably used way less. I love the finish it gives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 46 minutes ago, iSelfBuild said: Hi Barney, Yep the hand applied SIOO treated larch has almost bleached. You can see the difference on this video - We DIY applied the SIOO for the fascias. The cladding was done in a factory... they probably used way less. I love the finish it gives. Yes, I'm really impressed. It really tones down the Cedar shades which creates a more uniformed finish. I'm hoping it goes a lovely silver grey patina. I found the coverage rate to be a fair bit less than they advertise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triple07 Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 Those annular, lost head tradefix ones are exactly what we have gone for, we are using T&G western red cedar, finding stainless was actually a wee bit of a challenge. Hope to be on to that soon, still osmo oiling the stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperJohnG Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 Old thread revival - I'm just about to embark on this journey. I have 100m2 of Siberian Larch to put up on the soffits which are angled plus I have a huge canopy area. The timber is T&G and will be face fixed. The fixings will be stainless, but I am stuck on the type. Ideally I would nail it for speed, my joiner has offered up using the paslode and he has a no mark tip and would use like the small nails you use for doing skirtings so you lose the head - but he wanted to gorilla glue it also and thinks that will work well to hold it - but I am doubtful the glue is a good idea as nobody seems to do that. The lost head nails look like a good shout if you get annular ring shank type that can get shot from the gun - only thing holding me back from this is that the supplier said that you shouldn't break the surface of the timber with the fixing - so to use full head type that you would get with a coil nailer. Alternative is to use the screws, but the time and costs might be excessive? So a final question or two: 1) Would nailing with the full head be best for speed? or shoudl screws be the best bet? 2) In either case - shoudl I be thinking about pre drilling all the holes? as Siberian larch is so dense I hear that it's wise to do this? any input appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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