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Nail Bounce


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I'm still undecided as to whether I'm going to tackle the tiling of the roof so had a guy out last week to take a look. 

 

As mentioned in another thread recently the standard method of roof assessment seems to be; "stand with your legs slightly apart, lean back, look up and then most importantly suck through your teeth" :) With this guy his next comment was almost instant "Oh, 600 centres, that's not good, I always prefer 400". To which I of course in an interested tone said "why is that then". His reply "Far too much nail bounce on 600 centres. Makes the job difficult and slower on a nailed roof". 

 

Is is he right? I understand his point as there is a little flex in the battens towards the centres and copper nails don't like being hit too hard! 

 

I haven't had his quote yet. 

 

 

Edited by Barney12
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I found the technique to combat nail bounce was change the way you swing the hammer. Instead of the normal "hit and withdraw" try for "hit and hold".  It deadens the bounce and helps drive the nails in.

 

The only real problems was when there was a knot just where you wanted to drive the nail in. I then went to plan B and fitted those few with a screw instead of a nail.

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Yes, it is an issue, and one our roofers commented on.  Our main roof was counter battened at 400 centres, then battened (both with 25 x 50 battens), and was no problem, but the garage roof was at 600 centres.  However, when the roofers took a close look they realised that nail bounce wasn't going to be a problem with it as MBC had fitted 50 x 50 battens on the garage roof, and they were stiff enough to stop any bounce.  Made the roofers happy bunnies!

Edited by JSHarris
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19 minutes ago, Barney12 said:

He did say that they could "slide" another batten down between the 600 centres and screw it on. Apparently that reduces the bounce. Would that impact the ventilation or membrane at all though? 

Not if it's only a 100mm long packer ;). Sounds like a good idea TBH. 

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9 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Not if it's only a 100mm long packer ;). Sounds like a good idea TBH. 

 

Sorry not sure what you mean by that? He was on about sliding a full 25x50 batten between the 600 centres and screwing it on. 

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Can't see how that will help as the centre will still bounce as much as the thickened area will only be 50x50. 

 

It may also create valleys in the membrane but they will be filled by the batten. Isn't your roof counterbattened ..?

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8 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Can't see how that will help as the centre will still bounce as much as the thickened area will only be 50x50. 

 

It may also create valleys in the membrane but they will be filled by the batten. Isn't your roof counterbattened ..?

 

Yes. 25x50 vertical batten on each rafter and then 25x50 horizontal spaced for the slates.

 

Edit.It would provide rigidity as you would be tieing the horizontals to the new middle vertical. Effectively creating a trellis. 

Edited by Barney12
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So it would provide rigidity but not from the impact of a hammer - you would only have 50mm depth whereas your rafters are 150-200mm depth. 

 

Have they battened already and could you go to a 50x38mm perhaps ..?  

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18 minutes ago, Barney12 said:

 

Sorry not sure what you mean by that? He was on about sliding a full 25x50 batten between the 600 centres and screwing it on. 

Oh, I see, the trusses are also at 600 centre? Thought for a daft mo that they were bridging them with off cuts to catch 400 centered trusses rather than full pieces spanning the 600. :(. I'll make another coffee. ?

 

15 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Can't see how that will help as the centre will still bounce as much as the thickened area will only be 50x50. 

What he said :P

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3 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said:

So, there's no point to a weight forward hammer.........?

Shame. I won't need to buy one

 

 

the only hammer you will ever need to buy is a 20oz straight clawed estwing, preferably with a leather bound handle. It will cost enough for you to never lose it, and are widely regarded as the best all round hammer you can buy.

 

weight forward hammer............load of rubbish... "mutter" mutter"mutter"

 

also you can get shot filled metal faced hammers, usually sold as metalwork hammers

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Hammers-Mallets/Armstrong-ARM68-516-Cast-Dead-Hammer/B000I1ROCS/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1498989654&sr=1-1&keywords=dead+blow+pein+hammer

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43 minutes ago, PeterW said:

So it would provide rigidity but not from the impact of a hammer - you would only have 50mm depth whereas your rafters are 150-200mm depth. 

 

Have they battened already and could you go to a 50x38mm perhaps ..?  

 

Yes MBC have arelady battened. 

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Is this issue one of the downsides of not using sarking boards that you can nail directly into? When slating a roof in Scotland, slates are nailed straight onto sarking boards - our last house had 22mm whitewood boards.

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6 hours ago, recoveringacademic said:

 

A what?

Is there a Weight Backward version?

 

OK, googlied it....

What difference does a weight forward make?

 

This is mine, made by Roebuck. I was in the wholesalers years back and saw it. I've known the owner for like 30 years. They were the "in thing" at the time. He said "Take one (FOC) and try it!"

 

Does seem to make me hit nails more accurately.....but tbh can't remember the last time I used a nail!

 

Last used this to drift the bolt out of a lower ball joint!

 

2017-07-02_05-07-44

 

Edited by Onoff
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