Crofter Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 That sounds about right. The B&Q website says it does 100m2/l which I guessed must be a typo! If not, it would be the best value paint ever 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 I can get McPhersons contract locally, cheap as chips... and would save me a trip to Inverness. I might have to go for that in the name of speed, unless anybody has any horror stories? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 I like MacPherson's paint. Its better than most, but not as good as the likes of Dulux trade, but half the price! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 On 6/17/2017 at 23:46, Crofter said: I'll have to see what's available locally, but in general are there any brands or types I should be looking for, or avoiding? I like Dulux Endurance as you can wash it without it coming off. Essential on corners and around light switches if you have kids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 I read this as Best Value Pint! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 So, Armstead contract white is in progress... anybody got anything good or bad to say about Armstead Trade Vinyl Matt as a final finish? Tin says it's suitable for commercial/institutional use, but doesn't mention being washable/scrubbable/wipeable. Unfortunately the next step up that I can get locally seems to be three times the price. I don't think I can get this sort of thing delivered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Tried the Valspar on my job alongside the Leyland and its Leyland for me sorry. Just no comparison for obliterating new plaster first coat. The rubbing off issues @jamiehamy mentioned are something that the Leyland suffers from, but this isn't a finish paint, it's more like a filler / base coat that you rub down after obliteration and then finish with a good quality finishing paint. The Leyland is fine for ceilings as the finish as they don't really get any contact after finishing the obliterating but the walls deffo can't be left with this as the final coat. I accept that as I use products accordingly for the purpose they're intended for. . Cheap quick white out with Leyland, super light rub-down and then on with something decent, usually the colour coat so you can't use bulk-buy stuff anyway ( as its usually white or magnolia only ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grosey Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 10 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Tried the Valspar on my job alongside the Leyland and its Leyland for me sorry. Just no comparison for obliterating new plaster first coat. The rubbing off issues @jamiehamy mentioned are something that the Leyland suffers from, but this isn't a finish paint, it's more like a filler / base coat that you rub down after obliteration and then finish with a good quality finishing paint. The Leyland is fine for ceilings as the finish as they don't really get any contact after finishing the obliterating but the walls deffo can't be left with this as the final coat. I accept that as I use products accordingly for the purpose they're intended for. . Cheap quick white out with Leyland, super light rub-down and then on with something decent, usually the colour coat so you can't use bulk-buy stuff anyway ( as its usually white or magnolia only ). I know what you mean, it doesn't slap on like a mist coat, my understanding is that your first coat is just that, a mist and first coat in one. So you have to put it on as if you were "decorating" the wall. I don't know to be honest, as I said the wife used to work for them so swears by it, I'm tempted to give the Leyland slap it on quick method a go - but she's chief painter and I hate decorating so really it's whatever makes her happy ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 14 minutes ago, Grosey said: its whatever makes her happy ? You can't put that in a tin ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted July 1, 2017 Author Share Posted July 1, 2017 Another noobie question... How closely matched will one brand of 'pure brilliant white' be to another? I don't really need durable scrubbable paint up on the ceilings, but I also want to avoid masking at the join between vaulted ceiling and wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 12 minutes ago, Crofter said: Another noobie question... How closely matched will one brand of 'pure brilliant white' be to another? I don't really need durable scrubbable paint up on the ceilings, but I also want to avoid masking at the join between vaulted ceiling and wall. You won't tell the difference TBH, plus they'll look darker and lighter than each other even if painted with the same product as they're differing elevations . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stones Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 There is definitely a difference between Armstead contract matt emulsion, and their durable matt. The contract stuff has a slight cream tinge to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 (edited) 54 minutes ago, Crofter said: Another noobie question... How closely matched will one brand of 'pure brilliant white' be to another? I don't really need durable scrubbable paint up on the ceilings, but I also want to avoid masking at the join between vaulted ceiling and wall. If it is between surfaces which are separated by corners, then your lighting may cause bigger differences than paint shades of the same colour. There are also useful games that can be played with bringing ceilings visually lower etc, increasing reflected light etc. For your newly plastered ceilings It may be a good idea to let it dry out for a bit with a contract paint, then redo it with something like eh Wickes flexible ceiling paint or similar which will help cover any hairline cracks as the skim settles. Ferdinand Edited July 1, 2017 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted July 1, 2017 Author Share Posted July 1, 2017 I'm doing a coat of thinned contract matt, then at least one of straight contract matt. A third coat where necessary (bit behind the stove is proving quite stubborn!). It says on the tub that it's ideal for new plaster. Top coat paint won't be here till next week anyway, is that enough time? Will make it about two weeks since plasterer finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted July 1, 2017 Author Share Posted July 1, 2017 1 hour ago, Ferdinand said: If it is between surfaces which are separated by corners, then your lighting may cause bigger differences than paint shades of the same colour. I don't mind the surfaces looking slightly different if that's what the ambient lighting does. But I do want to avoid having to mask up on the ceiling/wall joint. Ideally I'd like to be able to fire on with a big roller on the walls and not worry about the odd bit getting on the ceiling. I'm hoping that a cheaper non-scrubbable PBW will be the same colour as the more durable version from the same manufacturer (most likely leyland). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stones Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 Given the relatively small area you have to cover, is it really going to be that big a saving not putting the durable finish on the ceiling? You really have to balance the saving against the time for cutting in / masking AND future decorating. You are after all going to be operating a holiday let which you may well end up refreshing the paintwork every year to keep things tip top for your guests. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share Posted July 2, 2017 6 hours ago, Stones said: Given the relatively small area you have to cover, is it really going to be that big a saving not putting the durable finish on the ceiling? You really have to balance the saving against the time for cutting in / masking AND future decorating. You are after all going to be operating a holiday let which you may well end up refreshing the paintwork every year to keep things tip top for your guests. Yes that's a fair point. I'm only going to consider using two different paints if they are going to be indistinguishable once dried, i.e. no masking or cutting-in required. The more durable paints cost around 50% more than a standard vinyl, so it's a pretty small saving all told. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Adding a relevant question. I need a scrubbable paint to use in a kitchen over an emulsion which is coming off when marks are removed. Will the B&Q Valspar be OK for that? F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 3 hours ago, Ferdinand said: Adding a relevant question. I need a scrubbable paint to use in a kitchen over an emulsion which is coming off when marks are removed. Will the B&Q Valspar be OK for that? F Nope Dulux do a scrubbable Matt called iirc Diamond Matt ( or words to that effect ). Supposed to be the ? bollocks TBH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 (edited) What is Dulux Endurance like? B&Q appear to have them reduced by about 60-80% to clear. http://www.diy.com/search?Ntt=dulux+endurance Add: Suspect this may be a website zombie that does not exist. Had this with B&Q before. Add2: And what about Dulux Easycasre, which is claimed to be 20 times tougher than normal. Currently 3 for 2 at Wickes: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Products/Decorating+Interiors/Paint/Dulux/c/1001114?q=%3AtopSellers%3Abrand%3ADulux%3AType%3ADurable+Emulsion&text=# F (mutter, mutter ... too complicated) Edited July 2, 2017 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Johnstones make an endurance paint and it's as hard as £&@# and is scrubbable. Do it once and not have to worry about it for 5 years ..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeSharp01 Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 3 hours ago, Ferdinand said: (mutter, mutter ... too complicated) Poor old Ferdinand obviously still suffering from last evening imbibing of 'the' cocktail... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 (edited) 7 minutes ago, MikeSharp01 said: Poor old Ferdinand obviously still suffering from last evening imbibing of 'the' cocktail... Another one lined up for later after watering the garden. It is actually quite mild after a Fog Cutter. It would be nice doing a Culprit Fey with full units of Cointreau, Creme de Menthe, Gin, Pournot and Cream rather than half-units, mind. Paint situation now resolved, though. Dulux Diamond Eggshell for the kitchen, and a selection of Dulux Easycares for the rooms which will suffer from children. F Edited July 2, 2017 by Ferdinand 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share Posted July 2, 2017 And one more noob question... possibly one for @Nickfromwales ? Will it do any harm to paint plastered walls which will subsequently be getting tanking and/or tiles on them? Just asking because I haven't planned the details of how high up to tile etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Ideally you would tile directly onto the plasterboard (no skim). Paint means you are sticking tiles to paint, to skim, to plasterboard. Do you know what sort of tiles you are having? If you have chosen something like 20mm natural stone, you might want to think again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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