Dudda Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Have 600 x 2400mm T&G OSB sheets which are 18mm thick and want to fix them to the floor joists which are at 400mm centers. What glue brand or suggestions/recommendations of glue to make sure its rock solid and what's the best way to fix: Glue only Glue and screw at edge of each sheet Glue and screw everywhere. Last house had very squeaky floors which I never want to have again. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 I vill say zis only once....SPAX: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Spax-Chipboard-Flooring-Screws-4-5-x-60mm-Pack-300/p/140812 This is 22mm on 400ctrs. No glue, just butted tight. SPAX screws in the middle of the board and on each edge. Solid as a rock and no squeaks whatsover. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Glue and screw with D4 adhesive .... and I have lots ..!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Well my floor was laid by my builder and supplied as a kit, the 22mm polythene protected flooring sheets were glued only to the Finn joists with foaming D4 glue ( don't know what brand) and my builder has been doing floors this way for years and never had a problem or a reported squeaky floor ( my pet hate). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 I wrote this on Ebuild. "The weyrock comes in a 600x2400 format so they'll generally be laid at 90 degrees to the joists. You'll then have around 6 joists (if the joists are at 400mm centres ) per board to fix into. Over the 600 width I always fit 5 screws, 1 in each end 50mm in and 1 in the middle of the board. Then another 2 screws in the remaining gaps. PU ( polyurethane ) glue ( or 7 day glue as I call it as that's how long it takes to get off your hands !) is an expanding glue similar to expanding foam bought in a can but is applied like a liquid/pva glue. This stuff starts to cure within 60 seconds or so of being open to atmosphere so never glue up more than one board at a time!!! Dry cut and lay your first row of boards, and mark the joist with the outline so you don't put down more glue than you need ( I stop 50mm short of every board as the glue typically expands to the end anyway and it saves cleaning of excess cured glue when on the next dry run). Lift the boards, appy glue to joist tops and lay your first row of boards to suit, gluing the 600 tongues but NOT the long tongues. Have a dry full board handy at this stage and span it across the joint of the first two boards, as this will tell you if the first run is nice and straight. Only then start screwing the first boards down. NOTE, the glue goes off in about 5 mins, so don't hang about. You need to be on your toes with this and have all things needed close to hand. Screw, glue and repeat as required ! :-)The screws need to be 2" or 2 1/2" No.10's ideally, which is what I use, as No.8's tend to have a small head and pull through the boards. The important part is NOT to use a screw which us fully threaded ( has thread from tip to head ). The ones I use are part threaded with about 1/2" of clear shank before the head. The reason for this is fully threaded screws tend to promote 'jacking', which is where the screw goes through the board, hits the joist and then lifts the board slightly before the screw bites and pulls into the joist. Unless you ram the screw half way into the wayrock to pull this gap closed ( bad thing to do ) then you will be left with gaps and that point of the flooring being supported by the screw. :-( Screw the part threaded ( flooring ) screw into the board and stop when the screw head is just under flush with the top of the wayrock. Don't keep tightening as most good cordless drills, particularly impact drills, will happily pull the screw right through the wayrock, and out the other side. The fact that the screw head starts to pull through and countersink itself tells you that the board is tight against the joist so stop there!Speed is of the essence here as the glue is great, but goes off really fast. Before laying your next row of boards, check under the previous tongues for any excess cured glue and remove if necessary, as that'll stop the boards fitting snug into the next groove. A good idea is to have a can of gun grade foam 'cleaner' handy to keep tools and hands clean as this glue is a bugger to clean off when cured. I @!## you not :-@ don't apply more glue than needed as this will expand about 20 times its original mass, less is more. If you see a lot of uncured glue oozing out of the joints when you bring the boards together you've used too much! Seeing expanded cured glue coming out after is normal though and means you're joints are solid. Regards, nick." The rest of the thread is here. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudda Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 Thanks all. Going to go with the fancy screws suggested by @Onoff but fixed as suggested by @Nickfromwales Will use D4 glue. Just found some on eBay. It's not the cheapest glue or screws and going Nick's way I'll use a lot but I want it rock solid and squeak free. Thanks again for the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 1 hour ago, Dudda said: Thanks all. Going to go with the fancy screws suggested by @Onoff but fixed as suggested by @Nickfromwales Will use D4 glue. Just found some on eBay. It's not the cheapest glue or screws and going Nick's way I'll use a lot but I want it rock solid and squeak free. Thanks again for the advice. How much D4 do you need and where are you ..? I may have a small stockpile ..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudda Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 Ah crap. I've purchased 7 of them and payment confirmed. Sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 No worries - there are some good deals on eBay, hope you got one ..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 I have just finished laying about 84sq metres. Glue and screw, the D4 is great but as Nick said it takes a week to get off your hands. I have taped all the joints and now covered in tarp as I have no roof! Thats my 74 year old Dad... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 This is an old thread, but a useful one and it doesn't feel right to start a new thread asking a similar question given the good advice here from the likes of @Nickfromwales, @joe90, @PeterW and others. I'm trying to avoid PU (polyurethane) adhesives which is a long story, but all of the expanding adhesives look to be that. I don't want squeaks and I can see that the PU glues would work a treat at that. It's expensive, but I am wondering about using CT1 instead as it is important to have something that stays flexible. How does that sound? Can anyone think of a better choice? Like @Dudda I am using T&G OSB, not chipboard [SterlingOSB so zero added formaldehyde]. Their OSB installation advice is to use PVA glue in the T&G joints. It also says "We recommend you use our NoSqueak glue" which I see is a PU glue (link). Other glues they have include Caberfix D4 (PU) and Caberfix Joist&Joint (PU). For the T&G joint I can happily use a PVA like Everbuild D4 or 502 Wood Adhesive. I've used quite a bit of those and they're good although the bottles are awful. I can appreciate the benefits of an explaining glue, but it's the PU aspect. I'll use loads of screws (100mm c/c) along the joists. I like the look of the Ulti-Mate or Floor-Tite ones. If I lay the label's famous 6mm bead of CT1 it goes 9.25m. That would need about 20 tubes of CT1. It may turn out it squeezes out too much at that width in which case it may go further. https://www.falconpp.co.uk/media/1060/osb-sterling-brochure.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 9 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said: I'm trying to avoid PU (polyurethane) adhesives which is a long story It is a story we all want to read. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 1 minute ago, SteamyTea said: It is a story we all want to read. It's a story any married man has had to read many times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 (edited) 19 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said: It's a story any married man has had to read many times Ah, never been married, though had a few wives. Can't remember a tube of glue ever being mentioned. Was going to borrow some mechanical fasteners off @Pocster, but they were in use. Edited May 19 by SteamyTea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 I used some 18mm T&G OSB for a temporary floor and fixed it with 1 screw per board. No issues at all. I have since fitted new 18mm T&G OSB, glued at the joins and with loads of screws and nails. Quite a bit of squeaking / creaking. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 1 hour ago, Mr Punter said: I have since fitted new 18mm T&G OSB, glued at the joins and with loads of screws and nails. Quite a bit of squeaking / creaking. Did you glue between the joists and boards? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 58 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said: Did you glue between the joists and boards? No I just glued the T&G joints. I am not too concerned as there is a heavy overlay board going on top, as well as some stud partitions. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Well my caberboard floor boards were D4 glued ONLY to each other and joists and absolutely no squeaks at all 👍 6 hours ago, MortarThePoint said: that. It's expensive, Really in the cost of the whole build? and it does a good job ? On 14/05/2017 at 23:02, JamesP said: but as Nick said it takes a week to get off your hands. Then don’t be messy or wear disposable gloves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 13 minutes ago, joe90 said: Really in the cost of the whole build? Of course you're right, but when you compare it to the non-flexible construction adhesives it is more expensive but worth it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 53 minutes ago, joe90 said: 7 hours ago, MortarThePoint said: that. It's expensive, Really in the cost of the whole build? and it does a good job ? I've recently come across Stixseal which is a cheaper hybrid adhesive. No idea if any good and like so often it's tempting to stick with something you know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Jones Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 d4 expanding glue, can put a couple screws on the starter row. I never bothered with any more anywhere. Floor is rock solid. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BotusBuild Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 I've got 4 or 5 litres of D4 to get rid of if your interested. In Cornwall but can be in Reading Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 21 hours ago, BotusBuild said: I've got 4 or 5 litres of D4 to get rid of if your interested. In Cornwall but can be in Reading Thank you! A bit too far out of my area but very kind of you to offer it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 Use the PU glue, “or perish in eternal hell and damnation”……probably. Just never used anything else and don’t fancy the thought of a mastic or silicone etc as they’re completely different products to do different things. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now