Suggestions for Glue type for OSB floor

[Dudda]

Have 600 x 2400mm T&G OSB sheets which are 18mm thick and want to fix them to the floor joists which are at 400mm centers. 

What glue brand or suggestions/recommendations of glue to make sure its rock solid and what's the best way to fix:

Glue only

Glue and screw at edge of each sheet

Glue and screw everywhere.

 

Last house had very squeaky floors which I never want to have again. Thanks in advance

[Onoff]

I vill say zis only once....SPAX:

 

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Spax-Chipboard-Flooring-Screws-4-5-x-60mm-Pack-300/p/140812

 

This is 22mm on 400ctrs. No glue, just butted tight. SPAX screws in the middle of the board and on each edge.

 

Solid as a rock and no squeaks whatsover.

 

 

[PeterW]

Glue and screw with D4 adhesive .... and I have lots ..!!

[joe90]

Well my floor was laid by my builder and supplied as a kit, the 22mm polythene protected flooring sheets were glued only to the Finn joists with foaming D4 glue ( don't know what brand) and my builder has been doing floors this way for years and never had a problem or a reported squeaky floor ( my pet hate).

[Nickfromwales]

I wrote this on Ebuild. 

 

"The weyrock comes in a 600x2400 format so they'll generally be laid at 90 degrees to the joists. 
You'll then have around 6 joists (if the joists are at 400mm centres ) per board to fix into. 
Over the 600 width I always fit 5 screws, 1 in each end 50mm in and 1 in the middle of the board. Then another 2 screws in the remaining gaps. 
PU ( polyurethane ) glue ( or 7 day glue as I call it as that's how long it takes to get off your hands !) is an expanding glue similar to expanding foam bought in a can but is applied like a liquid/pva glue. This stuff starts to cure within 60 seconds or so of being open to atmosphere so never glue up more than one board at a time!!! 
Dry cut and lay your first row of boards, and mark the joist with the outline so you don't put down more glue than you need ( I stop 50mm short of every board as the glue typically expands to the end anyway and it saves cleaning of excess cured glue when on the next dry run). 
Lift the boards, appy glue to joist tops and lay your first row of boards to suit, gluing the 600 tongues but NOT the long tongues. Have a dry full board handy at this stage and span it across the joint of the first two boards, as this will tell you if the first run is nice and straight. Only then start screwing the first boards down. 
NOTE, the glue goes off in about 5 mins, so don't hang about. You need to be on your toes with this and have all things needed close to hand. 
Screw, glue and repeat as required ! :-)
The screws need to be 2" or 2 1/2" No.10's ideally, which is what I use, as No.8's tend to have a small head and pull through the boards. 
The important part is NOT to use a screw which us fully threaded ( has thread from tip to head ). The ones I use are part threaded with about 1/2" of clear shank before the head. The reason for this is fully threaded screws tend to promote 'jacking', which is where the screw goes through the board, hits the joist and then lifts the board slightly before the screw bites and pulls into the joist. Unless you ram the screw half way into the wayrock to pull this gap closed ( bad thing to do ) then you will be left with gaps and that point of the flooring being supported by the screw. :-( 
Screw the part threaded ( flooring ) screw into the board and stop when the screw head is just under flush with the top of the wayrock. 
Don't keep tightening as most good cordless drills, particularly impact drills, will happily pull the screw right through the wayrock, and out the other side. The fact that the screw head starts to pull through and countersink itself tells you that the board is tight against the joist so stop there!
Speed is of the essence here as the glue is great, but goes off really fast. 
Before laying your next row of boards, check under the previous tongues for any excess cured glue and remove if necessary, as that'll stop the boards fitting snug into the next groove. 
A good idea is to have a can of gun grade foam 'cleaner' handy to keep tools and hands clean as this glue is a bugger to clean off when cured. I @!## you not :-@ don't apply more glue than needed as this will expand about 20 times its original mass, less is more. If you see a lot of uncured glue oozing out of the joints when you bring the boards together you've used too much! Seeing expanded cured glue coming out after is normal though and means you're joints are solid. 

Regards, nick."

 

The rest of the thread is here. 

[Dudda]

Thanks all. Going to go with the fancy screws suggested by @Onoff but fixed as suggested by @Nickfromwales

Will use D4 glue. Just found some on eBay. It's not the cheapest glue or screws and going Nick's way I'll use a lot but I want it rock solid and squeak free.

 

Thanks again for the advice.

[Nickfromwales]

?

[PeterW]

1 hour ago, Dudda said:

Thanks all. Going to go with the fancy screws suggested by @Onoff but fixed as suggested by @Nickfromwales

Will use D4 glue. Just found some on eBay. It's not the cheapest glue or screws and going Nick's way I'll use a lot but I want it rock solid and squeak free.

 

Thanks again for the advice.

 

How much D4 do you need and where are you ..? I may have a small stockpile ..!

[Dudda]

Ah crap. I've purchased 7 of them and payment confirmed. Sorry

[PeterW]

No worries - there are some good deals on eBay, hope you got one ..!

[JamesP]

I have just finished laying about 84sq metres. Glue and screw, the D4 is great but as Nick said it takes a week to get off your hands. 

I have taped all the joints and now covered in tarp as I have no roof!

Thats my 74 year old Dad...