Nickfromwales Posted April 3, 2022 Share Posted April 3, 2022 1 hour ago, Conor said: We're the same. Our whole ethos was "how do we build a house that's big enough but without looking like showy tw*ts? Think we did ok. Yup. 👍. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted April 3, 2022 Share Posted April 3, 2022 Temporary fix to my back door leaking, let us see what it is like in the morning. Already seems nicer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 3, 2022 Author Share Posted April 3, 2022 30 minutes ago, SteamyTea said: Temporary fix to my back door leaking, let us see what it is like in the morning. Already seems nicer. Euphemisms abound. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 3, 2022 Author Share Posted April 3, 2022 3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Can't you start with blown-in bonded beads in all of the cavities? They won't fall out around reveals / openings / heads etc during downstream works, and will be an effective start of your draught-proofing and insulation adventures. Tbh I thought the lounge was solid block wall until yesterday when I found it was in fact a cavity. I don't know for sure therefore, which walls are cavity and which aren't. Once you have the render off down here the same wall can be made of breeze and half a dozen brick types. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 3, 2022 Share Posted April 3, 2022 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: Tbh I thought the lounge was solid block wall until yesterday when I found it was in fact a cavity. I don't know for sure therefore, which walls are cavity and which aren't. Once you have the render off down here the same wall can be made of breeze and half a dozen brick types. If you have multiples of cavity walls, assuming all original walls would have been, then blowing them full of beads would be a good place to start ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 3, 2022 Author Share Posted April 3, 2022 14 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: If you have multiples of cavity walls, assuming all original walls would have been, then blowing them full of beads would be a good place to start ? I think the Dining Room, Hall, Bedroom and Stairs are the very, very original house along with the stairs room and most of the Kitchen. I think that is solid 9" brick. I don't know for sure. The D'Stairs Bathroom is a later addition brick cavity with of course all the work I've done lining the walls inside. The Study was a 4" block construction originally. I added an inner 4" skin with 60mm cavity filled with 50mm Rockwool batts. I added battens and another 50m Rockwool batts inside (don't as why, I had less of a clue then than I do now!). Saying that, warmest room in the house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted April 3, 2022 Share Posted April 3, 2022 it wouldn't take long with a masonry bit to confirm or deny your suspicions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 3, 2022 Author Share Posted April 3, 2022 43 minutes ago, dpmiller said: it wouldn't take long with a masonry bit to confirm or deny your suspicions Except knowing my luck I'd hit a pocket in a solid wall and think it a cavity! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 3, 2022 Author Share Posted April 3, 2022 What's the best fixing to put 25mm of Celotex then 12.5mm of pb onto these reveals? Screws and plugs or hammer in? Ideally they want to go below the surface of the pb. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 (edited) Make some 4x2 supports, ( to hold the PB in place with cross battens used as bracing ), and bond the PB on with exp foam first, then screws and washers for mechanical fix after. Then bond PB on. Sides first, head second. Consider using 40mm Marmox instead? Rigid, and you can skim straight to a board which is nothing but insulation. Edited April 4, 2022 by Nickfromwales Second cup of coffee required 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 Boom Damp bridging gone, plus better sound proofing from external noises coming in via cavities. Not cheap, but by the time you've done PIR then PB, plus it's not as good a job then I know what I'd be using tbh. The areas aren't huge, so go with the better product. Nice and solid for closing these cavities. Router out for a couple of 18mm plywood baffles for screwing blinds / nets into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: Consider using 40mm Marmox instead? Rigid, and you can skim straight to a board which is nothing but insulation. Thanks,that's a good idea, I shall remember that for my place. 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 4, 2022 Author Share Posted April 4, 2022 3 minutes ago, Gone West said: Thanks,that's a good idea, I shall remember that for my place. 👍 & they're only in Chatham. Spitting distance from...where you were! 😂 Just emailed them to find a stockist near me. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 14 hours ago, Onoff said: I don't know for sure. I've done a sketch of this place with the wall thicknesses, it's not straightforward I know. As far as I have found out it started off as a pair of 1840ish Victorian semi cottages. They were knocked into one house in 1970 and then converted to single storey in 1971. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayc89 Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: Make some 4x2 supports, ( to hold the PB in place with cross battens used as bracing ), and bond the PB on with exp foam first, then screws and washers for mechanical fix after. Then bond PB on. Sides first, head second. Consider using 40mm Marmox instead? Rigid, and you can skim straight to a board which is nothing but insulation. I guess slightly off-topic - Would this work in conjunction with airtight tape? Generally, I'd assume the airtight seal would be made between the PIR and window frame, then covered with the plasterboard. Can the tape itself by skimmed over too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 4, 2022 Author Share Posted April 4, 2022 1 hour ago, Gone West said: I've done a sketch of this place with the wall thicknesses, it's not straightforward I know. As far as I have found out it started off as a pair of 1840ish Victorian semi cottages. They were knocked into one house in 1970 and then converted to single storey in 1971. Any land to the side? Have you got another 8 years in you? 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 19 hours ago, Conor said: ... Think we did ok. ... Showy tw+ts @Conor... 🤪 I like @Onoff's threads because he uses images well. Thanks Clive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Any land to the side? Have you got another 8 years in you? Who knows. If I get another eight years I will have lasted longer than my Dad. Thanks to Eunice I've got a bit more to do this year. If I can remove the extension across the back of the bungalow, north side, fit new windows, re-render, remove chimneys and fit new boiler and DHW system I'll be happy. Not the landed gentry like you but we've got just over half an acre to keep tidy as well. Except for the garage we did all the heavy garden work after we moved in last year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 4, 2022 Author Share Posted April 4, 2022 (edited) That's 3 600×1250 Marmox Multiboard Backing Boards ordered, being delivered tomorrow. Could have picked up from Tile Experience in Croydon but stumped up for the £13 delivery. Thinking to cut it to 170mm wide for now to go from the upvc frame to the edge of the inner leaf. Later when I remove the battens and hardboard, the iwi can go over that. @Nickfromwales, surely I do the top piece first then the sides? Thus the sides keep the top up. I'll have to anyway do the soffit and sill in two pieces as nom 1450mm long. I was just going to stick the cut boards on with Soudal Low Expansion foam and brace between whilst it sets. I'll screw it on later. What's the crack with making some attempt at air tightness? I've got some radon tape but don't know if it'll stick to foam... I was debating sticking a dpm all round the reveal before the Multiboard goes on. That would really be reliant on the screws. Edited April 4, 2022 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 @Nickfromwales cutting this Marmox board...old circular saw like I used on the Aqua Panel? Then"sticking" it and sealing joins, I didn't splash out on the Marmox stuff, figured one if the generic "no nails sticks like a grabby thing" or EBT will do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 On 03/04/2022 at 10:23, Onoff said: SWMBO likes it deep! 🙄 @Onoff you know in your heart of hearts what you must do …. Get planning and spend the rest of your life building a proper house . It is your destiny young skywalker ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 16 minutes ago, pocster said: skywalker Look Warmwater with @Onoff's plumbing. (Say that with a proper Bristol accent like David Prowse had, makes all Darth Vader's threats harmless) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 6, 2022 Share Posted April 6, 2022 @Onoff I would stick the heads on first to get level and square, bracing with timber until foam cures. Foam ( Illbruck 330 ) for AT is ample. Cut with anything tbh, it’s easy to work with. Old blade in a battery circular saw ideal 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 6, 2022 Share Posted April 6, 2022 @Onofffo yourself a favour and change your foam. look at illbruck airtight foam for all sealing jobs, and soudal Instastick for fitting the reveal boards. totally different to the crap your using. you probably won’t need any other airtight strategy if you use this stuff. Icf supplies in Essex are a new distributor for the illbruck stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 6, 2022 Share Posted April 6, 2022 42 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: ... and soudal Instastick for fitting the reveal boards. ... Thanks Russ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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