Mini Stove > Cabin job.

[zoothorn]

3 hours ago, PeterW said:

you can nearly stand on it it is that strong - nothing like plasterboard. Local Jewsons should have something similar though and a single board cut down the middle woll

do you. 

Got one coming in to my TP for me next week. Great suggestion £10 too @ TP.

 

Could I use as is & paint, IE without tiling do youthink? I guess that wasn't your thinking tho..?

 

Thanks, Zoot

[Onoff]

Shop around for a matt black stove/barbecue paint that goes on multi surfaces. Like this:

 

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-sp5-heat-resistant-stove-paint-matt-b/

[PeterW]

Don’t use latex based paint either. 
 

Muuri make a good heat proof paint too that isn’t expensive 

 

https://www.tikkurila.co.uk/muuri.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAsNKQBhAPEiwAB-I5zUwRyZ_D83BxtNiVy9_3j8JbOIx79xAtZBA9lYjkR_aDiiiPGnT3GhoCuWEQAvD_BwE#1367

 

[Onoff]

43 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Don’t use latex based paint either. 
 

Muuri make a good heat proof paint too that isn’t expensive 

 

https://www.tikkurila.co.uk/muuri.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAsNKQBhAPEiwAB-I5zUwRyZ_D83BxtNiVy9_3j8JbOIx79xAtZBA9lYjkR_aDiiiPGnT3GhoCuWEQAvD_BwE#1367

 

 

Wow that is very reasonable for a litre!

 

Even adding £6 delivery.

Edited February 22, 2022 by Onoff

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

Don’t use latex based paint either. 
 

Muuri make a good heat proof paint too that isn’t expensive 

 

https://www.tikkurila.co.uk/muuri.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAsNKQBhAPEiwAB-I5zUwRyZ_D83BxtNiVy9_3j8JbOIx79xAtZBA9lYjkR_aDiiiPGnT3GhoCuWEQAvD_BwE#1367

 

Bought!
 

I trust all stuff with scandi names. Useful link Peter thx.

Edited February 22, 2022 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

Hi chaps. A snail's pace job apologies!
 

Got my Hardiebacker 1200 x 800 board, & the Muuri paint stuff. Plan to jigsaw the board in half..  snapping will just be 😭 .

 

I'm yet to pillage some old copper pipe to chop up into 1" offcuts to act as standoffs to my cabin walls.

 

This board.. it seems to be a cement + fiberboard composite but have no idea how it will cope with screws. And what type to use. Any suggestions?

 

Thanks, zoot.

 

 

[saveasteading]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

how it will cope with screws.

It is tough,  resists the screw head and pulls tight.  I used the official screws as it was for a shower and i didn't want any corrosion. 

[zoothorn]

26 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

It is tough,  resists the screw head and pulls tight.  I used the official screws as it was for a shower and i didn't want any corrosion. 

Hi there s.a.s.. don't think Ive had a reply from you before/ appreciated.

 

So just goldscrews for eg, I mean nothing specific needed?

 

Thanks, zoot.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 6, 2022 by zoothorn

[saveasteading]

1 minute ago, zoothorn said:

nothing specific needed?

I have had screws that were supplied with shower fittings, that have corroded, and it can make a horrible mess as well as it will fail at some stage, so I don't trust screws unless a trusted brand and clearly stated as rust-proof. For recent fixing of grab-rails I even bought stainless steel to be sure.

 

You don't have any risk of dampness by the sound of it, so that isn't an issue, but I would either countersink or get a self-countersink type.

 

I would select hardie-backer again, but the only issue was cutting. Scoring it like plasterboard, but on both sides, went through a lot of blades and still left a hairy, roughish edge. Apparently there is an official cutter available.

If others have had success with saws etc, then take their advice.

[Onoff]

I cut that type of board with an old circular saw and 'standard" wood blade. That and carbide grit jigsaw blades from Toolstation. 

 

 

[zoothorn]

20 hours ago, Onoff said:

I cut that type of board with an old circular saw and 'standard" wood blade. That and carbide grit jigsaw blades from Toolstation. 

 

 

Actually I would advocate a handsaw.. less dust surely & only 5 mins/ done. And my copper pipe stand-offs done. 20mm, most of an inch gap behind then.

 

Forgive my idiocy.. but how can I get the board screwed to wall with the standoffs between? Surely I need to drill my 13 board holes & then glue my standoffs over the holes on the back or something.. then flip over/ offer up/ screw in -?

 

Thanks, zh

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Tennentslager]

34 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Actually I would advocate a handsaw.. less dust surely & only 5 mins/ done. And my copper pipe stand-offs done. 20mm, most of an inch gap behind then.

 

Forgive my idiocy.. but how can I get the board screwed to wall with the standoffs between? Surely I need to drill my 13 board holes & then glue my standoffs over the holes on the back or something.. then flip over/ offer up/ screw in -?

 

Thanks, zh

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bluetak

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

Forgive my idiocy.. but how can I get the board screwed to wall with the standoffs between? Surely I need to drill my 13 board holes & then glue my standoffs over the holes on the back or something.. then flip over/ offer up/ screw in -?

 

 

The copper pipe will just sit on the screws for support 

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, Tennentslager said:

Bluetak

Hi there Tennents..

 

hmm but bluetack might be flammable? Gives me more room to think tho 🤔 

 

I need a heatproof'ish  summink to shove in my 20mm copper standoffs to jam the screw in.. i think.

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

The copper pipe will just sit on the screws for support 

Not following sorry.. the prob i have is I can't access the back to put the standoffs in. So they need to be firmly fixed to the board, presumably with screws in them too ready/ which means filling them with something non flammable, then attatching all 13, without knocking one off, to then carefully screw each in.

 

Unless Im not thinking right.

 

 

[saveasteading]

On 06/03/2022 at 11:07, zoothorn said:

standoffs to my cabin walls.

Make packers from glued together bits of hardiebacker?

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, saveasteading said:

Make packers from glued together bits of hardiebacker?

Hmm.. ive made all my 26 copper pipe standoffs & painted the board now cut in two.

 

The " im really nails" gun adhesive stuff or wtf its called Maybe.

[ProDave]

Lay the board flat, good side down (side that will go against the wall up)  and glue your spacers to the back of the board with sticks like sh*t or similar.  When dry they will stay in place while you stand the board up against the wall and put the screws in.

[Onoff]

I'm truly lost as to why you even need to glue. The copper to the board. Once the screws are through the board/pipe and unto the wall the copper is sandwiched and can go nowhere.

[ProDave]

53 minutes ago, Onoff said:

I'm truly lost as to why you even need to glue. The copper to the board. Once the screws are through the board/pipe and unto the wall the copper is sandwiched and can go nowhere.

You could stand the board upright, put all the screws through the holes, thread the spacers on, then gently offer up the board to the wall, but if one falls off you start again.  Gluing holds them in place during assembly to save the frustration.

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, ProDave said:

Lay the board flat, good side down (side that will go against the wall up)  and glue your spacers to the back of the board with sticks like sh*t or similar.  When dry they will stay in place while you stand the board up against the wall and put the screws in.

Dave, that's spot on.. good so my idea did have legs. this tube glue stuff actually works, my mind says won't it's silicone.

 

Good so onto my flue. Whilst your here.. the size is only 4" diameter. And only 1400 to ceiling.  You still think twin from stove thru ceiling necessary?

 

Thx zh

[ProDave]

You definitely need twin wall through the roof and a certain distance down from it.  You might find the length that you are allowed single wall is not much.

 

Because i didn't want to fit a heat shield all the way up the wall in the caravan, I went straight to twin wall from the stove.

[zoothorn]

On 07/03/2022 at 20:36, ProDave said:

You definitely need twin wall through the roof and a certain distance down from it.  You might find the length that you are allowed single wall is not much.

 

Because i didn't want to fit a heat shield all the way up the wall in the caravan, I went straight to twin wall from the stove.

Hi ProDave.
 

Fixed my painted heat barrier boards up.  So onto flue:
 

Yup I understand I need twin through the roof. And the hetas info says 400mm needed below, before the roof. Which leaves exactly 1000mm from that point, down to the stove top. My heat barriers go up 300mm above the stove top too. 

 

Twin all the way? Hmm..

 

I wonder how twin can actually fit onto the stove with a really good seal without being able to see the joint I mean ( as the extra outer flue wall will cover what Im doing). Critical to get a good seal here: Id be happier single flue 1m, then twin.
 

If the cabin walls are getting too hot above the barrier, I can always paint the 600mm area of non- barrier walls with muuri heat paint, or, if still concerning I just add extra heat board.

 

Thanks, zh

 

 

 

 

[ProDave]

Most flue manufacturers will make a special fitting to go on the bottom of the twin wall to convert to single.

 

This is what I did in the caravan.  I then had to add two 45 degree bends to make an offset as taking the flue straight up from the stove would have been right in the middle of a roof rafter.

 

You could take the twin / single adaptor straight into the stove, or a short length of single wall flue.

 

 

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, ProDave said:

Most flue manufacturers will make a special fitting to go on the bottom of the twin wall to convert to single.

 

This is what I did in the caravan.  I then had to add two 45 degree bends to make an offset as taking the flue straight up from the stove would have been right in the middle of a roof rafter.

 

You could take the twin / single adaptor straight into the stove, or a short length of single wall flue.

 

 

 

Thanks for the pic ProDave. Ok this is now a bit costly & complicated I think with adaptors.. & the twin stuff bigger than I thought too.

 

Im going to have to go single from the stove up 1m. Then Im 400mm shy of ceiling. So twin from there up thru roof. If walls get too hot at this 600mm gap above my heat boards, then I fit more board. Or, I paint the walls with the heatproof muuri paint.

The flue edge will be a good 8" away from walls. I think/ hope this might be sufficient. We'll see.

 

So I'll order 1m of each & join them, plus a simple cowell. Do I cut a roof hole so the flue sits tightly through.. or am I leaving a gap for some other flue bits here?

 

Thanks for the help, zh.