jamiehamy Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 HI all, We're not quite there yet but moving in that direction quickly. For fixing the door frames, am I better nailing this or countersink/screwing? We have grey doors (LPD Vancouver) and will be having painted while frame/architrave. I don't have a finishing nailer, so screwing/filling will be easier - and also I'm assuming a bit more forgiving to a first timer in that I can take it out again? If I need to get a nailer I will but for the sake of 14 doors. Although I suppose I have skirting too... Any other hints/tips all welcome! Thanks, J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennentslager Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 Maybe a small head torx screw...? http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p53848?gclid=CjwKEAjw_uvHBRDUkumF0tLFp3cSJACA 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 5 minutes ago, Tennentslager said: Maybe a small head torx screw...? http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p53848?gclid=CjwKEAjw_uvHBRDUkumF0tLFp3cSJACA Thanks - I'll maybe give them a go. I'm going to do a trial one in the next week or two as we start taping and filling. Whenever I mention to anyone I'll be fitting the doors,t hey almost always draw breath and raise their eyebrows...then again, the same people think I'm 'brave' fitting the kitchem despiet knowing we've build the whole house. lol. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 (edited) Use this to help keep your architrave nice and tidy. http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-mitre-adhesive-200ml/41795 Lay the 3 cut pieces out on the ground/ anything flat using battens to keep them lifted up and use the glue to hold the bits together. Easier to have a few doors worth cut as the glue sets rock hard in under 30 secs. You can then lift the complete bit up and nail it with out the risk of your cuts opening up and looking untidy. Also works with external corners of skirting. Edited April 22, 2017 by Declan52 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 33 minutes ago, Declan52 said: Use this to help keep your architrave nice and tidy. http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-mitre-adhesive-200ml/41795 Lay the 3 cut pieces out on the ground/ anything flat using battens to keep them lifted up and use the glue to hold the bits together. Easier to have a few doors worth cut as the glue sets rock hard in under 30 secs. You can then lift the complete bit up and nail it with out the risk of your cuts opening up and looking untidy. Also works with external corners of skirting. +1, but the linings have to be spot on to pre make the arcs. 1 hour ago, jamiehamy said: am I better nailing this or countersink/screwing? I'm suprised no-ones actually told you this is a 'screw only' job . You'll not be nailing these directly to the studs as they're not / won't be A) good enough or B) the correct dimensions. The norm is to set one side plumb and level, and pack accordingly, screwing through or directly next to the packers. Then the frame will then be X distance short of meeting the opposite side stud, so will also need packing and screwing accordingly. Before I go into chapter and verse, are you familiar with how to make a lining up ready to offer into the opening? Eg sized and square etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 Paslode finish nailer any day of the week. I use this all the time for fixing casings,architrave,skirting etc. Minimal hole repair afterwards which if you have to do a whole house is an awful lot of work.Also gIves you another hand so to speak when you need to tweak joints together when nailing. +1 on the mitre adhesive. Re_sale value of Paslode finish nailer will be very high so you will get a large amount of your outlay back. Some joiners are now fitting door casings with foam and nothing else once they are wedged and plumb in the opening, and they do not move afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 +1 on the No Nonsense mitre bond it's good stuff for cornices in kitchens too. No good for upvc trim around windows though as it'll yellow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 (edited) @Onoff if you use a pen activator with the glue instead of the spray it will not go yellow. I mean you can control the area you apply the activator to by applying it to the area where the glue will be and over spraying it. Edited April 22, 2017 by Pete More info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 8 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: I'm suprised no-ones actually told you this is a 'screw only' job . Before I go into chapter and verse, are you familiar with how to make a lining up ready to offer into the opening? Eg sized and square etc. Oh they have - and othes have told me it's a nailer only job! Fairly comfortable with making up the lining - well, as comfortable as I will be until I've done a couple! Screwing it is I think - probably a bit more forgiving although plenty holes to full later. Although I might regret that later with the skirting....argh. Thanks for the mitre adhesive tip @Declan52 - that was my main worry about premaking - but this has made me much more comfortable. I'll report back in due course Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 I use this or this and never get yellowing. I always wipe the excess spray off, but with MDF or pine I've never had any issues. The spray will run out quicker than the glue so get some spare cans . For the skirting and arcs I would deffo hire a second fix nailer. The cost will be offset by the speed at which you can fix the arcs and skirts, plus the saving of not having to fill sand and re-finish them. Screwing them can cause them to be pulled in and create undulations in MDF, but not so problematic in pine / timber. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 I screw linings after pilot and countersinking all legs at the same time. It's slow but I like linings to be spot on. Watch out your not fixing linings where lock or hinges go. Recipe for blunt chisels. I would never screw the architraves on that just seems rough as hell to me. 2nd finish nailer all day. I've seen people do the whole set at time but seems to much agro to me. I go bang all the heads on then cut all legs. Leaving out rooms where flooring to be fitted first. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Are we talking about a timber frame house or brick built. If timberframe go and buy that second fix nailer today you will not regret it. I think you are talking about three different jobs here. Door lining. Architrave. skirting. Doorlining. Screws and filler architrave. Second fix nailgun. Skirting. Second fix nail gun. I cant imagine screwing the skirting and filling all those holes. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 3 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: Are we talking about a timber frame house or brick built. If timberframe go and buy that second fix nailer today you will not regret it. @Russell griffiths what would you recommend for block built..?? Specifically a lightweight concrete block (not aircrete / celcon etc) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Block built would mean you HAVE to drill and screw the skirts . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 4 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Block built would mean you HAVE to drill and screw the skirts . Or use PinkGrip...?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 31 minutes ago, PeterW said: Or use PinkGrip...?? If you like big gaps between the skirt and the plaster, then yes ✌️️ I use a far thinner product, such as Sticks Like ? which you can easily depress / displace. Pink grip and Gripfill are notoriously difficult to do either with, and they also skin over within a minute or so, so not really suitable for skirts imo. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 I have seen cut nails used to fix door linings. For arcs and doorstop I like the air nailers with 18 gauge brads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: If you like big gaps between the skirt and the plaster, then yes ✌️️ I use a far thinner product, such as Sticks Like ? which you can easily depress / displace. Pink grip and Gripfill are notoriously difficult to do either with, and they also skin over within a minute or so, so not really suitable for skirts imo. Went to see a mate last week who has bought a new W**pey sh#%box as he's moved with work and the finish kwality is stunning ... everything is stuck on with either foam or pink grip - skip at the end of the road where they are still working is just full of empty tubes and cans ! I have tried that Soudal Fix All though and it's pretty good - refixed a fibreglass trim to a steel door and it did the whole stick/seal/fill without any hassle. Which brand of Sticks Like do you recommend ..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichS Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 For the door casings, if you're using loose rebate laths, just screw fix behind where the laths will cover. No need for any filling then. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 I used 80mm concrete screws to attach my liners to blockwork. You can screw them in nice and tight and out if you need to put a packer in. Holes get hid behind the door stop. For putting skirting on i used a mixture of adhesive and 50mm masonry nails. Being MDF the nail leaves a nice round hole that's easy filled with filler or paint depending on how fussy you are!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Declan52 said: I used 80mm concrete screws to attach my liners to blockwork. You can screw them in nice and tight and out if you need to put a packer in. Holes get hid behind the door stop. For putting skirting on i used a mixture of adhesive and 50mm masonry nails. Being MDF the nail leaves a nice round hole that's easy filled with filler or paint depending on how fussy you are!! Where I've battened the walls I've found the concrete screws very fussy about what they go into and how they hold thereafter. My bathroom walls are a mix of brick, breeze and block depending on was used in the past to block up that particular door or window. A proper mish mash. Muppets even plastered over wallpaper in some areas! Edited April 23, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Block built would mean you HAVE to drill and screw the skirts . This is very true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 1 hour ago, RichS said: For the door casings, if you're using loose rebate laths, just screw fix behind where the laths will cover. No need for any filling then. You can do it like this but I have found that one central fixing is just not enough,and allows cupping of the lining. I would much rather have two fixings and more filing. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 22 minutes ago, Onoff said: Where I've battened the walls I've found the concrete screws very fussy about what they go into and how they hold thereafter. My bathroom walls are a mix of brick, breeze and block depending on was used in the past to block up that particular door or window. A proper mish mash. Muppets even plastered over wallpaper in some areas! I used both lightweight and normal blocks for mine and had no issues with them. Had never really used them that much before so i tried a few out and couldn't pull them back out in either types of blocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 3 minutes ago, Declan52 said: I used both lightweight and normal blocks for mine and had no issues with them. Had never really used them that much before so i tried a few out and couldn't pull them back out in either types of blocks. I've had a few spin without biting up. The odd one so tight to get in I've sheared it. Used these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-100mm-100-pack/3839h In some cases where a 100mm hasn't taken I've gone up to a 150mm but it still hasn't taken. Must be the substrate material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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