What is this spinning bevel edge planer called?

[epsilonGreedy]

I have been following the British Restoration Couple video series in recent months and in one video (between 20 second to 40 seconds from the start) the guy runs a power tool along facia board to create a bevelled edge. The cutting bit is a spinning cone. Is this tool generally available, if so what is it called?

 

Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sp70IQSSowQ

 

[jfb]

you can just use a normal planer to do that - they normally have a groove (sometimes more than one) that the right angle of the wood goes into = just tilt the planer to 45 degrees.

[Declan52]

That's just a router. 

[markc]

its a router

 

[joe90]

I prefer a router to a planer fir this as you can do it in one pass, planers need multiple passes and difficult to gauge depth and angle.

Edited November 30, 2020 by joe90

[epsilonGreedy]

5 minutes ago, jfb said:

you can just use a normal planer to do that - they normally have a groove (sometimes more than one) that the right angle of the wood goes into = just tilt the planer to 45 degrees.

 

 

Hmm I am thinking about the scale of the job with 50m of fascia and trying to maintain a consistent bevel depth manually. Do you think manual planning is feasible for an L-shaped house with a hipped roof? 

[joe90]

Using a router will give you a better, consistent depth and angle, doing it by hand will be a ball ache. If you really want to do it by hand I would use a table saw to take most of it off and one pass with a plane to smooth it.

[jfb]

3 hours ago, epsilonGreedy said:

Hmm I am thinking about the scale of the job with 50m of fascia and trying to maintain a consistent bevel depth manually. Do you think manual planning is feasible for an L-shaped house with a hipped roof? 

if you have a planer - have a go to see how it feels on a spare bit of wood. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised by how straightforward and satisfying it is! Just make sure you set it up nicely so you can move along in a smooth motion. Really wouldn't take long either.

Edited November 30, 2020 by jfb

[epsilonGreedy]

Ok thanks all, I have never owned or used a router before. The router in the video seems to be attached to a larger baseplate so that it glides over the fascia plank, is this an accessory that can be attached to most routers?

[epsilonGreedy]

5 hours ago, joe90 said:

Using a router will give you a better, consistent depth and angle

 

 

I think I would also use a clamped batten as a guide for the edge of the router.

[Declan52]

The bit will have a roller on it so you can't go in any more that what depth or profile is on the bit. You just hold it against the material and push it along. 

 

[PeterW]

20 minutes ago, epsilonGreedy said:

Ok thanks all, I have never owned or used a router before. The router in the video seems to be attached to a larger baseplate so that it glides over the fascia plank, is this an accessory that can be attached to most routers?

No that is lazy way of not bothering to remove the plate out of the router table off the router before using it ..!!! No way he can see the bit or where the workpiece is. 
 

A decent router will mean you can easily see the workpiece and also the bit, and you don’t need a lot of “flat” to work as you use a bearing bit as what @Declan52 has suggested. 
 

If you are only planning on trimming edges like that, then a trim router would be ideal as they are light enough to use one handed but also easier to handle. What you don’t want to be starting with is a big 2000W 1/2” Dewalt as it will rip your arms off. 

[joe90]

19 minutes ago, PeterW said:

big 2000W 1/2” Dewalt as it will rip your arms off. 

Which is why “soft start” tends to be the norm nowadays ( I have had a hitachi m12 fir about 40+ years, still going strong). I prefer a larger router as it’s weight helps stability.

[PeterW]

17 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Which is why “soft start” tends to be the norm nowadays ( I have had a hitachi m12 fir about 40+ years, still going strong). I prefer a larger router as it’s weight helps stability.

I agree - I run a big Makita 3601 Fix base and a Trend T5. The T5 can still give a kick if it bites into the timber too hard but the Makita chews everything in its way ..!! Only downside is that it isn’t great as a plunge start. 
 

But for trimming the edges on these boards one of the smaller routers would be idea - much less to go wrong when you take stuff off in small slices !

[dpmiller]

I bought a very cheap chinese clone of a Makita trim router, with an added plunge base, as a first foray into edge-contouring. And it's a bleedin useful wee beastie, even if I only use it for rounding over the odd thing or trenching a door head or the like. Paid for itself very quickly...

 

[Onoff]

4 hours ago, PeterW said:

What you don’t want to be starting with is a big 2000W 1/2” Dewalt as it will rip your arms off. 

 

Indeed. DW625e router here. Massive, heavy but so well balanced. Soft start etc. I'm a big lad but of all the tools I use this commands the greatest respect next to the chainsaw probably.  

[Alexphd1]

Good timing, I will be playing with the router tomorrow for bevelling a edge (first time) on a oak worktop. Only used the big router for cutting out vents in the soffits up to now.... will be a interesting day! 

[PeterW]

@Alexphd1 round over or bevel..? Bearing bits are ideal for this and make a really neat job - I now make my own MDF window boards as they are cheaper and have used oak worktop to do this before as well. 

[joe90]

9 hours ago, Alexphd1 said:

Good timing, I will be playing with the router tomorrow for bevelling a edge (first time) on a oak worktop. Only used the big router for cutting out vents in the soffits up to now.... will be a interesting day! 

don’t cut it too fast or it will burn, try to practice on an off cut if you can.

[Alexphd1]

Everything went to plan. It was a trend  6mm radius curve with a bearing. Only schoolboy error was using a old blade in the plunge saw.....

[Simplysimon]

22 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Indeed. DW625e router here. Massive, heavy but so well balanced. Soft start etc. I'm a big lad but of all the tools I use this commands the greatest respect next to the chainsaw probably.  

get it's father, Elu mof 177e not a cheap knock off ?

[vfrdave]

On 30/11/2020 at 22:30, dpmiller said:

I bought a very cheap chinese clone of a Makita trim router, with an added plunge base, as a first foray into edge-contouring. And it's a bleedin useful wee beastie, even if I only use it for rounding over the odd thing or trenching a door head or the like. Paid for itself very quickly...

 

Any links to what you bought?

[dpmiller]

one of these @vfrdave

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Compact-Router-Trimmer-Laminate-Kit-Trimmer-Tilt-Plunge-Base-Guide-for-Makita/324222818852?hash=item4b7d2f9a24:g:2ZAAAOSw--xfAGqL

 

but mine came from a guy in Crumlin that brought a batch in. It's grand for the money, the plunge base is very solid.

[mvincentd]

I have the Draper trim router and plunge base, which appears to have rather a lot in common with that unbranded one ( except about £20 more).  Got it from local tool shop and he's now cautioning me against trying to use it in a router table as reckons it will lack the beans, especially with hardwood.  I don't have prior router experience to reference against but seems to perform ok handheld, the plunge is a bit grabby.

[Onoff]

Shed loads of these trim routers on Banggood from £22 upward. Search "laminate router".