zoothorn Posted November 5, 2020 Author Share Posted November 5, 2020 (edited) 15 minutes ago, joe90 said: Sounds like you did not drill deep enough, needs to be a bit deeper to accommodate dust etc. Did you have the correct driver bit? They are usually no 3,s Definitely drilled deep enough. Yes drill bit i didnt change for it.. anyway its fekd so gotta saw it off, utter pain. Despite this ive just about got this side in. Jobs not perfect but no way i could do better. ok im really up against it timewise now. Carpet is monday. Ok so what do i do next, with this in mind.. ie just to prep ready for him? i hve to put something covering the rearside, i cant put architrave here as its too wide. I gotta do whatever this strip is, then fix last but of skirting in, then presumably if he got to carpet in outy around it.. the 3 plant on pieces too. Then the ffrontside architrave strips on. Then paint it all 2 times. Jesush. Edited November 5, 2020 by zoothorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 Zoot the hoot. My apols fella, but this is better than taskmaster. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 (edited) 7 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Carpet is monday that gives you three full days!!!!!!! How long do you want? 7 minutes ago, zoothorn said: i hve to put something covering the rearside, i cant put architrave here as its too wide. Quarter moulding. Edited November 5, 2020 by joe90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 5, 2020 Author Share Posted November 5, 2020 50 minutes ago, joe90 said: that gives you three full days!!!!!!! How long do you want? Quarter moulding. This has taken a whole day joe.. it takes me 10x the time it would you. is it friday or thursday? quarter moulding.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 Try Google yourself for a change why don't you? I typed in "quarter moulding". 'Kin amazing resource, wish I'd found it years ago! https://www.google.com/search?q=quarter+moulding&oq=quarter+moulding&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i22i30l7.6240j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 16 minutes ago, zoothorn said: is it friday or thursday? It will be Friday in 1 1/4 hours ????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 5, 2020 Author Share Posted November 5, 2020 its thursday!! and relax... thank fk for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 5, 2020 Author Share Posted November 5, 2020 What architrave to put on front.. my other doors have a very plain/ simple ramp type shallow slope, with a flat top. simple as. Be nice to follow suit. I guess I just pick one out once Im there.. But is there any specific word/ term for this fronside addition I can look online 1st? I thought arch.. was ceiling detail. Seen your quadrant moulding stuff @joe90 thanks/ ok 25x25mm stuff going on the back side then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 You could run ordinary architrave through a table saw so it's the same width as the jam. Thus the taper would match the full architrave. Saying that it's common to have the architrave set back slightly from the edge of the jam: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 6, 2020 Author Share Posted November 6, 2020 (edited) 10 hours ago, Onoff said: You could run ordinary architrave through a table saw so it's the same width as the jam. Thus the taper would match the full architrave. Saying that it's common to have the architrave set back slightly from the edge of the jam: Hi Onoff- no table saw this is the problem. I just need, ideally, to find the front section like your eg here (the back section I'll do joe's idea/ simply 25x25 quadrant moulding- great). So is the stuff you've put on here, almost exactly what I need, called anything? is it cut down 'architrave' or is it 'door lining moulding'? or another name? does it come in usual widths lke yours looks to be ~ like most doors similarly so.. or did you have to run this thru a table saw & maybe cut off 1" from its whole width? Edited November 6, 2020 by zoothorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 6, 2020 Share Posted November 6, 2020 10 hours ago, Onoff said: Saying that it's common to have the architrave set back slightly from the edge of the jam: Yes, or the hinges will rub on it as they are set into the door frame!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 6, 2020 Author Share Posted November 6, 2020 1 minute ago, joe90 said: Yes, or the hinges will rub on it as they are set into the door frame!!!! So do you mean set back the architrave on -just- the hinge side? Onoff's is set back on the non-hinge side in the pic/ I assume the door is hung. Or is the idea to just set it back equally all around, to make it look symettrical-? Ive got my architrave stuff, so putting on this a'noon. Also got that frame fix screw in.. joe you were right/ just needed a far bigger philips bit in my driver: pg1 mistake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 6, 2020 Share Posted November 6, 2020 59 minutes ago, zoothorn said: set it back equally all around, yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 6, 2020 Share Posted November 6, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, zoothorn said: Or is the idea to just set it back equally all around, to make it look symettrical-? Yep On mine set back at top and non hinge side the same. At the hinge side, where two doors meet I had to get creative with a bit of quarter beading. Edited November 6, 2020 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 6, 2020 Author Share Posted November 6, 2020 11 hours ago, joe90 said: Yes, or the hinges will rub on it as they are set into the door frame!!!! Ok understood- Ive done the backside quadrant (a bit of a mess!) & frontside architrave/ found exactly same stuff as my other doors: I ve put it all 1/4" set-in allround for hinges.. if its not enough I'll have to chip away at it a bit.. bit needed all the lining width as it was only 27mm as it was.. so 21mm to fix arch.. to. Ok Im seriously up against it timewise- these 4 bits plus last of skirting took the whole day. My other doors have the hinges tucked in between the arch.. and the edge of the door lining/ so I cant do this now, but, I presume (hope to goodness) I can add hinges onto what Ive done, later-? Right- last bit to consider is the easy-to-fit plant-on 3 bits 8am/ then blitz painting all day (I'll only be able to do 1x overcoat, not enough time to do 2x now) before carpet man monday.. hope to fk its dry. terrible night last night.. CH system woke me 3x during night so I'm majorly up against it now. Could you run me thru where to put these plant-on bits.. do I have a choice where, or are theu dependent on something (door thickness-? what lactch/ catch thing I plan to use-? anything else-?). thx zH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 6, 2020 Share Posted November 6, 2020 1/4” will be fine. Problem with the plant on door stops is you need the door to fit them too, frankly I would leave them off till you build a door, you can instal them with the door (when it’s built) and paint them afterwards, just protect the new carpet with plastic sheet when you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 6, 2020 Author Share Posted November 6, 2020 52 minutes ago, joe90 said: 1/4” will be fine. Problem with the plant on door stops is you need the door to fit them too, frankly I would leave them off till you build a door, you can instal them with the door (when it’s built) and paint them afterwards, just protect the new carpet with plastic sheet when you do. Good ok thats a plan.. tho i do have the adjacent bedroom doors to copy, made from same stock in town, that being t & g belt n braces doors or w'evaaa theyre called.. but get your point, makes sense to do this bit later esp as im pushed fo time. thanks chaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 Looking good zoot, see, you can do it, just needs a little help. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 1 hour ago, joe90 said: Looking good zoot, see, you can do it, just needs a little help. ? I think it does! I need not a little help.. a flippin heap joe/ thanks to you guys. Looks like each side's a banana but is straight, bar a few mm's top to btm: even putting a square brace on both top cnrs, I still couldn't get sides plumb, so had to undo braces. So Ive got abot 3mm gap top L to top R across the width too. Far from perfect. But I dont think I could ever get better for a 1st go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 (edited) 18 minutes ago, zoothorn said: I think it does! I need not a little help.. a flippin heap joe/ thanks to you guys. Looks like each side's a banana but is straight, bar a few mm's top to btm: even putting a square brace on both top cnrs, I still couldn't get sides plumb, so had to undo braces. So Ive got abot 3mm gap top L to top R across the width too. Far from perfect. But I dont think I could ever get better for a 1st go. Don't be surprised when you hang the door if it's flush one side where the hinges are and not the other where the latch is, either out at the top or bottom. A laser is tbh better imo to plumb frames in than a spirit level. Cross that bridge if and when we come to it! When you pin your shuts on: -Shut your door. -Do the head shut first then the sides. -Cut all to length. -Slip 1mm packs between door and shut, allows for paint thickness -Pin shuts using (supplied?) panel pins but don't knock them fully home until satisfied as to how the door closes -Punch them just below the surface, fill and paint Edited November 7, 2020 by Onoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 Are you going to just make a braced door or a braced and framed door? Shuts will either sit against the boards facing the door or the braces. I made a braced stable door for a freebie shed out of scrap. I just routed grooves in the edges of the rough 4x2 and used ply strips as tongues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 25 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Far from perfect. yes but it’s a cottage and they are always a bit squiffy. When I renovated an old cottage in Shropshire my building inspector turned up as I just finished some bricklaying (I am not a brickie) and I complained that my bricklaying was not very level/square, his reply was that my bricklaying was as good as the rest and dead straight brick laying would not be in character. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 +1 on 1mm packers when fitting door stops, nothing worse than having to move door latch after painting. top tip.....I hate doors slamming and I stick those little clear door bumps to the door stops top and bottom. https://www.screwfix.com/p/door-cushion-domes-49-pack/18213?tc=SB6&ds_kid=92700046986170840&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245725&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=CjwKCAiAqJn9BRB0EiwAJ1Sztd6jGctNAgUHXkaMvxBSX_qWq0iB7JAC3FpW2Hy5PU1wbhicoWAiJxoCSX8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 11 hours ago, joe90 said: @Onoff nice barn door.. so many screws.. so yes this sort of thing, but good thing is i only have to match the decently diy'd standard of the other two nearby, and copy them, and get same t&g boards, even the same cheapo latches to match still fs in Charlie's. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 5 hours ago, Onoff said: Don't be surprised when you hang the door if it's flush one side where the hinges are and not the other where the latch is, either out at the top or bottom. A laser is tbh better imo to plumb frames in than a spirit level. Cross that bridge if and when we come to it! When you pin your shuts on: -Shut your door. -Do the head shut first then the sides. -Cut all to length. -Slip 1mm packs between door and shut, allows for paint thickness -Pin shuts using (supplied?) panel pins but don't knock them fully home until satisfied as to how the door closes -Punch them just below the surface, fill and paint Ok thanks Onoff- will revert back to this.. cross this bridge in time/ no rush on the door immediately. Understand the idea/ good one. You can see the door I'm gonna copy in background of pic, circa 1985 or so. Basic, but do have an authentic cottage feel. I'm just going to do this by skin of me teeth/ overcoat should be dry @ exact time carpet man comes. fingers x'd its dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now