January 21, 20215 yr loss through (new, insulated?) pipes is very small compared to that of each radiator. Sadly you have *no idea* of the 55c bit, and age is nothing to do with it. That's why we want you to actually measure it. Maybe the flow temperature sensor in the unit is duff and reading 10deg out? YOU DON'T KNOW YET.
January 21, 20215 yr 12 hours ago, MJNewton said: I'll never forget once chatting to my plasterer and him telling me he can spot the 'fussy' customers because all their screw heads are oriented the same way.... Our chippy says the same - while not giving a damn about neatness himself. And he was talking to me the other day about his OH moaning at him about - not picking his dirty clothes off the floor - taking his boots off - not washing up - not .... etc. Some are born neat, some messy, and some have neatness thrust upon them. Yet others are OCD. Screwheads in fact.
January 21, 20215 yr Author 4 minutes ago, dpmiller said: loss through (new, insulated?) pipes is very small compared to that of each radiator. Sadly you have *no idea* of the 55c bit, and age is nothing to do with it. That's why we want you to actually measure it. Maybe the flow temperature sensor in the unit is duff and reading 10deg out? YOU DON'T KNOW YET. How could I ever know the 55* bit though? I only have the controller to change a digital number. I cant dangle my thingy in it. Pipes, insulated question: well I have been left with a bundle of grey lagging Ive no idea why- is a customer meant to fit this themselves? (plus two new high pressure flexi coil fridge pipes, again no idea why left by installers, not that these have relevance to pipe temp).
January 21, 20215 yr put one of your thermometers on the flow and return from the "boiler" box thingy.
January 21, 20215 yr Author @MJNewton more figs.. Main sit room.. 2 rads in. Rad 1 is a big looong one, rad 2 is a medium. rad 1: L 37.8*... R 40.2* rad 2: L 29*... R 33.7* These rads fed from pipes coming down from 1st floor, rad1 below the boiler box + cylinder (spare room) so effectively 2nd in chain I'd think.. rad 2 is below my old bedroom (turned rad off as I never use this room), so this perhaps 3rd in chain. I changed HW temp from 55* to 50* recently (I recall engineer saying over 52+ means extra cost, uses the extra immersion or something like that, so I'm trying 50* & seems just hot enough for a bath). Pretty sure this isn't altering the 'flow temp' too: I recall having to go right into its brain with vaillant chap guiding me, to change this. thanks zoot
January 21, 20215 yr Author 1 hour ago, dpmiller said: put one of your thermometers on the flow and return from the "boiler" box thingy. Yup will do today.. I must turn down CH/ rads now, but it'll engage once thermostat dips below 18.5*, so I'll do this then. I don't have an obvious flow and rtn pipes tho.. many 22mm pipes coming out btm of box thingy. I think this box is where the HW is 'made' tho, but I still have no clue what this 'boiler box thingy' actually is: it might not be a boiler at all. Or are you saying take a reading where its exiting the cylinder-?
January 21, 20215 yr 15 minutes ago, zoothorn said: so I'm trying 50* & seems just hot enough for a bath). My DHW is set to 48’ from my ASHP and I have to add a little cold to a bath as it’s too hot (and I love a hot bath rather than a tepid one).
January 21, 20215 yr Author 8 minutes ago, joe90 said: My DHW is set to 48’ from my ASHP and I have to add a little cold to a bath as it’s too hot (and I love a hot bath rather than a tepid one). Can you separate 'flow temp' and DHW temp tho? its too complicated to even find where I did the flow temp b4 to find even a display of it again.
January 21, 20215 yr Author @Onoff Yes my hinges like your oldy one, countersinks will indeed be on the back. So its roundhead screws, understood, but size: usually with hinges they come with/ not these/ bargain bucket jewsons 39p! So I need screws. Ok the hinge holes are 6mm, 9mm across including the countersink bit. I bought (38mm) x 4mm dia black c'sunk jobs (for the door face side, 45mm door total: ledge + t&g door).. but not happy/ their shafts don't seem wide enough to me, or the heads wide enough either 7mm. When I hung my bathroom door, conventional hinges, screws seemed to be very-good fit to the holes, I assume so no chance the door weight will pull hinge down a few mm's. So I must be sure of all these screws: my door is heavy. When you say 'rails' do you mean my ledges-? thx zH
January 21, 20215 yr Have you tried turning off all but one radiator and seeing if just 1 radiator running will reach 55 degrees? Or am I wasting my time trying to help?
January 21, 20215 yr 47 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Can you separate 'flow temp' and DHW temp tho? No, my ASHP only has one temperature setting, but I have a buffer tank to allow heating water to be blended down for UFH. (I have no radiators).
January 21, 20215 yr Author 33 minutes ago, joe90 said: No, my ASHP only has one temperature setting, but I have a buffer tank to allow heating water to be blended down for UFH. (I have no radiators). Ah ok. Tried again to get info on my flow temp, but cannot find it anywhere within system. HW temp I can. Looking at my boiler box thingy, it has a screen with one permenant figure on, like my room temp on my thermostat controller thing. It says 23.1kw/h per day. I guess an average I'm using: can anyone glean any info from this, re. possible running costs? I haven't in 7 months had any idea of what they are for this, each leccy bill has been 'assumed' relative to a time before I didn't have the CH installed- I keep missing the boat putting my meter readings in. Hopeless memory.
January 21, 20215 yr 1 hour ago, zoothorn said: @Onoff Yes my hinges like your oldy one, countersinks will indeed be on the back. So its roundhead screws, understood, but size: usually with hinges they come with/ not these/ bargain bucket jewsons 39p! So I need screws. Ok the hinge holes are 6mm, 9mm across including the countersink bit. I bought (38mm) x 4mm dia black c'sunk jobs (for the door face side, 45mm door total: ledge + t&g door).. but not happy/ their shafts don't seem wide enough to me, or the heads wide enough either 7mm. When I hung my bathroom door, conventional hinges, screws seemed to be very-good fit to the holes, I assume so no chance the door weight will pull hinge down a few mm's. So I must be sure of all these screws: my door is heavy. When you say 'rails' do you mean my ledges-? thx zH Rails = ledges yes, the x3 horizontal members. 4mm screws are no use. You need No.12s probably. Table below has nominal sizes and shank diameters. Don't forget you measure a countersunk screw along its whole length, a roundhead you measure under the head to the pointy tip. You don't want to punch out the other side of your ledge. 1 3/4" is 44.45mm. Plus the hinge thickness you should just be ok with a No12 X 1 3/4 long countersunk screw. You can always nip a bit of the screw point off with a hacksaw etc. Check head dia on a No.12. Edited January 21, 20215 yr by Onoff
January 21, 20215 yr Author 1 hour ago, ProDave said: Have you tried turning off all but one radiator and seeing if just 1 radiator running will reach 55 degrees? Or am I wasting my time trying to help? No you're never wasting your time ProDave- I take your advice as gospel like PeterW's, Onoff's, Joe90's, MJN, dpm etc.. I might miss a reply now & then tho that's all. I 1st gotta check if it is actually set to 55*, IE I haven't inadvertantly put it to 50*, but that's not forthcoming as I cannot find where to see. I will certainly do this, if I remember (artschool smoking a certain something, has ruined my memory!!) but after Ive done basic temps for my rads, established what the situation is with these etc. thanks zoot
January 21, 20215 yr Author @Onoff apprecite that info: getting the buggers is nigh on impossible tho. 12 x 1-1/2. Or 5.5mm x 38mm. I can only get no.10 black pan head for the frame-side hinges, but can't find any black countersunk no.10 or 12 for the door side. I must have black.. others will look awful. Huge pain this- taken 2 weeks so far 3x attempts on screws. I have my 4mm ones: will these defo not be any good? I guess this is why hinges were 39p!
January 21, 20215 yr 12 minutes ago, zoothorn said: @Onoff apprecite that info: getting the buggers is nigh on impossible tho. 12 x 1-1/2. Or 5.5mm x 38mm. I can only get no.10 black pan head for the frame-side hinges, but can't find any black countersunk no.10 or 12 for the door side. I must have black.. others will look awful. Huge pain this- taken 2 weeks so far 3x attempts on screws. I have my 4mm ones: will these defo not be any good? I guess this is why hinges were 39p! If you want to use 4mm go for it, I wouldn't as I've said. Likely nor would others on here! No. 12 X 1 1/2" should do. Just don't over size any pilot hole. Just get it on with whatever chunky screws you have and swap out later. 6mm black coach screws with a square head would look good... If not black the use a black permanent marker. Clean and give the screw heads a going over with the pen. Let dry, repeat. Touch up once in place.
January 21, 20215 yr 59 minutes ago, zoothorn said: artschool smoking a certain something, has ruined my memory
January 21, 20215 yr Author 23 minutes ago, Onoff said: 27 minutes ago, Onoff said: If you want to use 4mm go for it, I wouldn't as I've said. Likely nor would others on here! No. 12 X 1 1/2" should do. Just don't over size any pilot hole. Just get it on with whatever chunky screws you have and swap out later. 6mm black coach screws with a square head would look good... If not black the use a black permanent marker. Clean and give the screw heads a going over with the pen. Let dry, repeat. Touch up once in place. No I can't even get no.12 x 1-1/2" countersunk black I mean. This is ideal @ 38mm. Or no.10 (without buying 100x plus post) either.
January 21, 20215 yr 52 minutes ago, Onoff said: Too be fair I am schizo No I’m not !!! Yes you bloody are !!
January 21, 20215 yr Author @Onoff do i have to recess all 3 hinges into the frame at all? I mean do they serve purpose as a little ledge to support any door weight via the hinge? Reason being.. Ive got a bit of a bow you see, concave frame hinge side by 2mm or so, so need to set the mid hinge in.. & done this one fine.. but could i just whack other hinges on the frame as is, not set in, using them like a packer for ideal gap. Plant on strip going over, just nip a bit out in two hinge areas. This will sit over hinge hiding half or so, usefully.
January 21, 20215 yr Just now, zoothorn said: @Onoff do i have to recess all 3 hinges into the frame at all? I mean do they serve purpose as a little ledge to support any door weight via the hinge? Reason being.. Ive got a bit of a bow you see, concave frame hinge side by 2mm or so, so need to set the mid hinge in.. & done this one fine.. but could i just whack other hinges on the frame as is, not set in, using them like a packer for ideal gap. Plant on strip going over, just nip a bit out in two hinge areas. This will sit over hinge hiding half or so, usefully. You are correct in that the hinge being set in does serve a purpose to transfer the door weight onto the "shelf" created by the hinge recess. I think it just looks naff planted on the jam as an aside. If it works for you though go for it. More important if you do so to then use decent, chunky screws, as they'll be more in shear if not supported.
January 21, 20215 yr @zoothorn, might sound like a daft question but have you or anyone else bled (the air out of) the radiators?
January 21, 20215 yr Author 1 minute ago, Onoff said: @zoothorn, might sound like a daft question but have you or anyone else bled (the air out of) the radiators? Nothing suggesting needs it, I don't think- cold top of rad signifies air trapped I believe. I do have two rads next to one another with very different LHS readings Id like to try figure out. Ive emailed contacted Vaillant for how to ID the flow pipe coming from the box thingy. But thx.
January 21, 20215 yr 1 minute ago, zoothorn said: Nothing suggesting needs it, I don't think- cold top of rad signifies air trapped I believe. I do have two rads next to one another with very different LHS readings Id like to try figure out. Ive emailed contacted Vaillant for how to ID the flow pipe coming from the box thingy. But thx. So the rads haven't been bled? You could humour me for the seconds it would involve to take a radiator key to them and see if any air comes out.
January 21, 20215 yr Author Just now, Onoff said: So the rads haven't been bled? You could humour me for the seconds it would involve to take a radiator key to them and see if any air comes out. No, but like ancient proverb say 'unless evidence of trapped air don't fk with radiator'. No rad key tbh anyway.
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