Air brick

[Pocster]

So my flu installer is coming next week .

He wants an air brick in the underground section where the log burner is to go .

Going to be tricky to install underground !! - can I pipe to it ? I.e air brick above ground but pipe work to below ground ?

Also isn’t this just a draft maker ? - I could block it up for the air test at the end .

I guess I’m asking if you can get an air brick that’s one way ? ? ; draws air in but doesn’t let it out .

Assume mvhr isn’t any help/ relevant to air flow in this situation?!? ?

[Roundtuit]

Can't remember what your floor build-up is, but room-sealed stove with air supply ducted in?  Mine takes fresh air from a vent outside just above ground level, through some 110mm soil pipe under the floor and up into the wood burner.  If you don't do that, you'll need an air brick or vent that can't be closed I think.

[Pocster]

3 minutes ago, Roundtuit said:

Can't remember what your floor build-up is, but room-sealed stove with air supply ducted in?  Mine takes fresh air from a vent outside just above ground level, through some 110mm soil pipe under the floor and up into the wood burner.  If you don't do that, you'll need an air brick or vent that can't be closed I think.

Thanks 

Floor makeup can’t be altered ( ufh etc . )

I could run a pipe from the wall/ceiling below ground to upstairs ( timber frame ) then go to the outside with a vent .

[ProDave]

A stove under I think 4kW does not NEED an air intake according to building regs.

 

I would however recommend buying a stove that has a ducted air intake.  Our stove at 4.5kW has both it's primary and secondary air intake via a duct.  In my case that duct draws the air from the ventilated space under the suspended floor.

 

When the stove is not in use it does not create a draught and makes little change to the air tightness.

[Pocster]

Actually thinking about it more .

Where can ( must ? ) the air vent in the property be relative to the log burner ?

Can I literally stick a ceiling vent in above the log burner ? ( next to the flu ) ?

[Pocster]

1 minute ago, ProDave said:

A stove under I think 4kW does not NEED an air intake according to building regs.

 

I would however recommend buying a stove that has a ducted air intake.  Our stove at 4.5kW has both it's primary and secondary air intake via a duct.  In my case that duct draws the air from the ventilated space under the suspended floor.

 

When the stove is not in use it does not create a draught and makes little change to the air tightness.

So you don’t bring in ‘external’ air ??

[ProDave]

3 minutes ago, pocster said:

So you don’t bring in ‘external’ air ??

No the external air only enters the stove, making the stove room sealed.

[Russell griffiths]

Are you really sure you need a pod burner down there, is it not a nice constant temp being underground?

i would think it would get as hot as fook very quickly. 

[Simplysimon]

go to a supermarket and then a diy shed. touch as many things as possible then your mouth, eyes and nose. you can then be your own flu like installer

[Pocster]

39 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Are you really sure you need a pod burner down there, is it not a nice constant temp being underground?

i would think it would get as hot as fook very quickly. 

Be my guest to tell SWMBO that .... ?

[Jeremy Harris]

3 minutes ago, pocster said:

Be my guest to tell SWMBO that .... ?

 

 

Just fit an LCD screen inside the thing and pretend it's working . . .

 

(actually not such a daft idea, some friends have done this to a small log burner and it looks surprisingly good, almost as good as my car when it's in "Romance Mode").

[Pocster]

21 minutes ago, Jeremy Harris said:

 

 

Just fit an LCD screen inside the thing and pretend it's working . . .

 

(actually not such a daft idea, some friends have done this to a small log burner and it looks surprisingly good, almost as good as my car when it's in "Romance Mode").

In my world I would do exactly that . Alas purchases on a self build divide into these categories...

 

1) Things BCO wants

2) Things I want

3) Things SWMBO will HAVE

 

The log burner is a category 3) issue ...

[joe90]

We also have a log burner with pipe buried under floor to outside for incoming air to the stove (room sealed), because of its controllable nature and small size with internal doors open it does not get too hot (unless lit fir many hours). It don’t suppose it matters where the pipe comes from!

[Pocster]

22 minutes ago, joe90 said:

We also have a log burner with pipe buried under floor to outside for incoming air to the stove (room sealed), because of its controllable nature and small size with internal doors open it does not get too hot (unless lit fir many hours). It don’t suppose it matters where the pipe comes from!

I’ll check with flu guy if he’s happy for a ceiling vent going to the outside . Tricky installing an air brick underground! ??

[joe90]

@pocster what stove are you buying/got?

[Pocster]

1 hour ago, joe90 said:

@pocster what stove are you buying/got?

Haven’t bought / stolen one yet 

[Ferdinand]

1 hour ago, pocster said:

I’ll check with flu guy if he’s happy for a ceiling vent going to the outside . Tricky installing an air brick underground! ??

 

Not particularly...

[Siochair]

I’m sure I read somewhere that there was a type of flu that allowed for a fresh air supply through it. The air intake was just below the top of the chimney. I think the idea was to pre-heat the incoming air to make the combustion that bit more efficient and help keep the stove room sealed.

[Pocster]

40 minutes ago, Ferdinand said:

 

Not particularly...

Yes particularly - I can't break through the waterproof membrane - even if I did it's solid rock all around.

[joe90]

52 minutes ago, Siochair said:

I’m sure I read somewhere that there was a type of flu that allowed for a fresh air supply through it.

yes I have heard of that too, not seen one though, bit like a balanced flue for gas boiler I guess?. 

[ProDave]

Would a ballanced flue work for a WBS with the air intake right next to the smoke exhaust?

 

When we had a 1930's house, it still had an open fire when i bought it, and due to the lousy heating system when I bought it, I still used the open fire sometimes.  That house had a fireplace in the living room, another in the largest bedroom above, and a third (disused) pot that used to be fed from the copper.

 

A quirk on a still day was if you light the fire, then it needs combustion air from somewhere, and there was no provision for combustion air other than "leaks". So it would draw combustion air in from the easiest place, which turned out to be the upstairs fireplace, down the stairs and under the living room door.  On a still day with no wind to take the smoke away, it would draw smoke down the chimney and fill the bedroom with smoke.

 

I think a concentric boiler flue works because it is usually fan assisted, which I have never seen with a stove.

[Temp]

We have a work burner that burns room air. BCO asked where my air brick was. I pointed to the MHRV vent in the ceiling and he said "oh ok" and that was it.

 

Some room sealed stoves have legs allowing the incoming duct to turn through 90 degrees under the stove so it can come from a wall. I don't know if you can run this upwards. Wood burners rely on a hot flue to extract smoke, where as gas boilers don't want a hot flue as that represents inefficiency. Gas boilers use fans instead of a thermosyphon.

[dpmiller]

I've installed a flue system that does indeed bring the supply air down from the roof

 

https://www.schiedel.com/uk/products/ceramic-system-chimneys/swift-air/

 

 

[Pocster]

Flue Installed

I asked him about The air bricks etc. He suggested one with a ‘float’ in - so it’s not just an open draft ..

[Pocster]

As I have to run my ‘air brick ‘ via a duct to the underground ceiling was thinking of placing it here . Will it look ‘odd’ being so low ? . Admittedly I choose a ‘look at me’ cone for it rather than a cheap white plastic grill .