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Posted

Marine ply on this wall not strictly necessary but .... you know !

So pocket door frame will fix next to this .
 

Then I’ll build a ‘skinny’ stud wall in front of that - once I understand the pocket door ....

 

 

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  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well !

The plan of shuttering the ufh screed leaving ‘easy’ space for waste / pipes etc . probably not the best !

Anyway - block infilled the ensuite . Will batten up tomorrow. Then should be able to cut 1 piece of marine ply to cover the lot .

Have the shower tray so in theory can position waste hole in ply and through beam & block .

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Edited by pocster
Posted (edited)

Studded floor almost done - a few infill timber to go in . Is this enough to support the marine ply ?4B75329E-ED40-4B72-8C6F-B369110EFDE4.thumb.jpeg.4e950edb002ad53b339350c73e9acbc7.jpeg

Edited by pocster
Posted

Just placing the tray .

Wanted it to be low access .

Relative to unfinished floor about 45mm.

I’m guessing floor tiles + adhesive + decoupling Mat = 20 mm at best .

Also of course tray needs to be bed so guess that’s 5mm ?

So edge of tray above finished floor around 20mm ?? - that too much ?

Only way of getting lower is to remove the top level of timber support and use something thinner . Or build up with multiple levels of marine ply .

What do we think ?

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Posted

Question !

Tray is 1000 x 760 

Have sliding doors for it .

Not unpacked The doors as space an issue . Is the door frame exactly 1000mm ? Or is it slightly less to allow for tiles either side of tray ??

Posted

Door frame will be exactly 1000mm

Usually you fix a metal channel to tge wall and the door fixes into the channel allowing the door to fit 1000mm gap +/-15mm.

Worth double checking the instructions now rather than regreting it later

Posted
18 minutes ago, bassanclan said:

Door frame will be exactly 1000mm

Usually you fix a metal channel to tge wall and the door fixes into the channel allowing the door to fit 1000mm gap +/-15mm.

Worth double checking the instructions now rather than regreting it later

Ok . But I assume the tiles sit over the edge of the tray . Surely I don’t fit the door and tile upto it ? ( I assumed tile the whole room then fit shower door frame ) .

But will clear a space and unpack door frame etc .

Posted (edited)

Fit the tray

Tank the walls if you are going to

Tile the walls

Grout

Seal the joint between the tray and the walls

Fit the door.

 

No need to unpack the door, just Google the manufacturer fitting instructions e.g. Mira slider door has 40mm adjustment 

 

Edited by bassanclan
  • Thanks 1
Posted
20 minutes ago, bassanclan said:

Fit the tray

Tank the walls if you are going to

Tile the walls

Grout

Seal the joint between the tray and the walls

Fit the door.

 

No need to unpack the door, just Google the manufacturer fitting instructions e.g. Mira slider door has 40mm adjustment 

 

There is indeed a wall profile ( it was a seperate package ) . Only 1 though ( I would of assumed 2 ; one for each end)  .

Will open the sliding door box to just get the instructions.

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Posted

Ok ! There are 2 wall profiles that fit at either end . Instructions don’t seem to indicate that you tile first - so assume these go up first and are tiled too ...

Posted

Called up shower door / tray manufacturer ( aqua dart ) they say tile completely then fit profiles .....

This sound right ? . What about if I have textured tiles I.e not flat ???

Posted
2 minutes ago, pocster said:

Called up shower door / tray manufacturer ( aqua dart ) they say tile completely then fit profiles .....

This sound right ? . What about if I have textured tiles I.e not flat ???

 

Normally, with flat tiles, I'd say tile first then fit the profile as you'll only need to worry about a few points being sealed up i.e the screw holes.

 

As for textured tiles... @Nickfromwales will be along shortly! ?

 

How textured are we talking about?

 

Guess if you do butt the tiles to the profile, with the profile in effect in a channel then it's a job for copious CT1 and baby wipes. Doubly important to tank the wall too methinks.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Normally, with flat tiles, I'd say tile first then fit the profile as you'll only need to worry about a few points being sealed up i.e the screw holes.

 

As for textured tiles... @Nickfromwales will be along shortly! ?

 

How textured are we talking about?

 

Guess if you do butt the tiles to the profile, with the profile in effect in a channel then it's a job for copious CT1 and baby wipes. Doubly important to tank the wall too methinks.

Thanks 

My gut instinct is to tile first .

SWMBO choose the textured tiles ( ffs ! No good arguing in the tile shop and saying “ can you choose flat ones “ ) . Tiles are on order so can’t say how much texture they have I.e how non flat they are .

Walls will be tile backer board - not schluter though - too expensive .

All yet to arrive !

Posted

Re did the ensuite shower support .; wasn’t happy with it 20mm above finish floor ( gestimate ) . Now I reckon it would be more like 5mm ?

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Posted

So !

Decided now toilet going on that far wall next to shower . Sod’s law stud is exactly above a concrete lintel ?

So have to eat into secondary stud wall just to clear lintel - hope there’s enough space 

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Posted
4 minutes ago, pocster said:

I don’t know . Tight ? . Might just miss lintel ?? 

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You can bring the elbow back / forward in a few configurations depending where you clip into the blue frame and whereabouts you clip around the fitting.

Posted
6 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

You can bring the elbow back / forward in a few configurations depending where you clip into the blue frame and whereabouts you clip around the fitting.

Yeah I know . It’s getting a 3inch gap past the lintel For the waste ;not breaking into ufh either side . But I must just be lucky ....

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