Bathroom starts !

[Pocster]

21 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

And as you stand up from the bath to open it, what will the neighbours say?

“Cooooorrrrrrrr ; you’re big ! “

[Onoff]

40 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

And as you stand up from the bath to open it, what will the neighbours say?

 

"Oh look, he's got a small compromise!"

[SteamyTea]

24 minutes ago, pocster said:

you’re big

Yes, we established that when we were out on our last dogging adventure.

[Pocster]

9 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Yes, we established that when we were out on our last dogging adventure.

Do you mean ‘last’ as in previous or ‘last’ as in final ? ?

[SteamyTea]

4 minutes ago, pocster said:

Do you mean ‘last’ as in previous or ‘last’ as in final ? ?

Well the girls did not want you to go back, so final for you.

[Pocster]

Decided to get the rather meaty 5 core cable through for rgbw led ( better than @Onoff ‘s )

[Pocster]

Sorting out those awkward angled ceiling bits . Not much fun . They are at approximately the same angle now !!

OSB’d them for extra strength .

[Pocster]

Don’t like these ceiling edges . Ceiling plasterboard would sit on nothing - shove some timber in there .

Also assume I need to put noggins in the ceiling at 300mm apart for plasterboard.

[Mr Punter]

What centres are the trusses on?  They look more than 600mm, but maybe that is a trick of your 'special' camera.

 

If 600ctrs you can just use 15mm plasterboard.

[Pocster]

2 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

What centres are the trusses on?  They look more than 600mm, but maybe that is a trick of your 'special' camera.

 

If 600ctrs you can just use 15mm plasterboard.

Yeah 600mm centres . Seems rather wide to me . Might still do a noggin every 300mm across them all for peace of mind .

[Mr Punter]

27 minutes ago, pocster said:

Yeah 600mm centres . Seems rather wide to me . Might still do a noggin every 300mm across them all for peace of mind .

 

Not needed, but nothing to stop you.  You will obs need some more timber where the wall on the left is flush with the truss.

[Pocster]

2 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

 

Not needed, but nothing to stop you.  You will obs need some more timber where the wall on the left is flush with the truss.

Already fixed those sides . Don’t want the end of the plasterboard hanging on thin air .

Funnily enough timber just turned up .

[Pocster]

Noggins in bathroom ceiling . More tile backer board . Socket enteries for heated towel rails ( not a socket a cable faced plate ) 

[Pocster]

Noggins in the ensuite ceiling - yeah I know there’s too many ! . Think I’ll move that mvhr vent - to near the door ...

[Mr Punter]

Shower room vents are best directly over the shower area.

[Pocster]

12 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

Shower room vents are best directly over the shower area.

Yeah but I read for mvhr ( as told by the supplier ) not to put it directly over the shower . Bpc ventilation whom pretty much everyone suggests said this .

I was going to move it to the middle of the room which then allows for a down lighter either side .

[Jeremy Harris]

Definitely best right over the shower, for two reasons.  Firstly, that's where most of the humid, warm air will come from, so it makes sense to remove it as closely as possible from where it originates, in order to minimise the spread of humid air around the bathroom, where it may well condense out on surfaces.  Secondly, showers are often towards the end of a bathroom and it's always much better to place both extract and fresh air supply ducts as far away from doors  as possible, and never in the centre of a room, as being as far away from the door as practical allows the longest diffusion path across the room and so minimises any spots that might hold "dead" air.

[Mr Punter]

2 hours ago, pocster said:

Yeah but I read for mvhr ( as told by the supplier ) not to put it directly over the shower . Bpc ventilation whom pretty much everyone suggests said this .

I was going to move it to the middle of the room which then allows for a down lighter either side .

 

Did they give a reason?  I would be interested to know.

[Pocster]

1 minute ago, Mr Punter said:

 

Did they give a reason?  I would be interested to know.

Yeah . Same as others get in this group . It would ‘over run’ the mvhr - I guess they mean humidity at 100% and unit flat out . 
Also I seem to recall something about condensation forming in the vent pipes .

Anyway ! I’m struggling to move the vent as a zillion other pipes and cables in the way !! Ffs !!

[Mr Punter]

I would want the unit to run flat out if I was having a shower.  I would have thought that having it nearer the source would eliminate it more effectively, like having a kitchen extractor above the hob.  Also, the vent pipes in the house would have a fair through flow of air and I would think that the internal surface of the ducting should be well above dew point.  I wonder if there is any proper science behind this?

 

@Jeremy Harris surely cannot be wrong!

[Pocster]

7 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

I would want the unit to run flat out if I was having a shower.  I would have thought that having it nearer the source would eliminate it more effectively, like having a kitchen extractor above the hob.  Also, the vent pipes in the house would have a fair through flow of air and I would think that the internal surface of the ducting should be well above dew point.  I wonder if there is any proper science behind this?

 

@Jeremy Harris surely cannot be wrong!

I thought this also until bpc designed my layout and I questioned why not over the shower 

[Jeremy Harris]

30 minutes ago, pocster said:

Yeah . Same as others get in this group . It would ‘over run’ the mvhr - I guess they mean humidity at 100% and unit flat out . 
Also I seem to recall something about condensation forming in the vent pipes .

Anyway ! I’m struggling to move the vent as a zillion other pipes and cables in the way !! Ffs !!

 

Shows they just don't understand the basic physics involved.  As @Mr Punter rightly says, the ducts will almost certainly be above dew point, and anyway, as soon as the MVHR boosts when a shower is run the increased air flow rate and mixing from the "dry" extract ducts will reduce the humidity level at the MVHR.  MVHR units are designed to deal with internal condensation, and usually have a condensate drain specifically to drain away any condensed moisture.  It's not possible to "over run" an MVHR, sounds like a bit of hocus pocus that someone has made up, to me.  Humidity will never get close to 100%, I think the very highest I've ever recorded on the extract side of ours is about 70%, and that was exceptional, it rarely rises above 60%.

 

 

10 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

I would want the unit to run flat out if I was having a shower.  I would have thought that having it nearer the source would eliminate it more effectively, like having a kitchen extractor above the hob.  Also, the vent pipes in the house would have a fair through flow of air and I would think that the internal surface of the ducting should be well above dew point.  I wonder if there is any proper science behind this?

 

@Jeremy Harris surely cannot be wrong!

 

Me too.  We have ours set up with a humidistat, that boosts the MVHR when the humidity rises.  It boosts a minute or so after the shower is turned on and stays in boost mode until the humidity drops below the trigger threshold (usually about ten minutes or so).

 

I can be wrong, and have been, many times!

 

 

[Mr Punter]

Here is one Vent Axia did for a project for me.  All the showers have extracts over.

 

[Jeremy Harris]

2 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

Here is one Vent Axia did for a project for me.  All the showers have extracts over.

 

 

 Looks very good to me, and seems to follow all the basic principles, like trying to maximise the path length across rooms, avoiding "dead" spaces and extracting overhead sources of high humidity.

[Pocster]

Ffs ! I’ll move them to over the showers ( swears a LOT ! )