Wagas

UFH and screeed before or after plastering walls?

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Hi, is there a view on whether it's better to install UFH and screed before or after plastering the walls or is there no benefit to doing it in a certain order? Thanks 

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Floors first as plasterboard should end 10-20mm above the floor. 

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I did floors last as I didn't want them messed up with plaster muck.

 

As long as you know the floor make up you know where to stop the plasterboard, and the plasterer won't skim lower than that.

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What are doing above the screed? We screeded prior to boarding, plaster, mist costs, wall paint where spray painted, then engineered board on floor. After this skirting and finishing off.

 

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13 minutes ago, ragg987 said:

What are doing above the screed? 

 

I'm not certain what the floor finishes will be, does it matter?

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As long as the finish height is known, should not matter. My doubt is if you intend to polish the floor, not sure what is best in that case.

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I would say do screed ASAP as it can take a long time to dry out, which can then delaying fitting the flooring.

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I guess the downside of doing it before plastering walls is the manifold is installed onto a section of bare block wall?

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2 hours ago, Wagas said:

Hi, is there a view on whether it's better to install UFH and screed before or after plastering the walls or is there no benefit to doing it in a certain order? Thanks 

 

11 minutes ago, Wagas said:

I guess the downside of doing it before plastering walls is the manifold is installed onto a section of bare block wall?

 

11 minutes ago, Wagas said:

I guess the downside of doing it before plastering walls is the manifold is installed onto a section of bare block wall?

Doesn’t make any difference 

But as below screed shouldn’t come in contact with plaster 

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38 minutes ago, Wagas said:

I guess the downside of doing it before plastering walls is the manifold is installed onto a section of bare block wall?

Ours was not properly fixed to the wall, essentially just hanging, until plastered and painted.

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3 hours ago, ragg987 said:

Ours was not properly fixed to the wall, essentially just hanging, until plastered and painted.

 

@Wagas - Like @ragg987  We put the screed down over the UFH first as to allow plenty of time for it to dry out prior to the tiles going down. Sometimes an image or two helps. The two images show how the manifold was fixed to a wall, in the under stairs cupboard, prior to the walls being plastered and how it ended up afterwards.

 

DSC00810.JPG

Manifold.JPG

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If screed before PB is the consensus, how does one approach the scenario where screed depth is greater than the thickness of an internal stud's soleplate? The PB ends need something to be screwed into etc, so do we cut short sections of timber and place between the studs or is there some other cunning plan?

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As @bassanclan said - internal studs after screed. Means you have bigger areas to work with to get the screed flat, also means you can still have a little flexibility in positioning (assuming UFH layout isn’t prescriptive)

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On 11/06/2019 at 08:18, dpmiller said:

If screed before PB is the consensus, how does one approach the scenario where screed depth is greater than the thickness of an internal stud's soleplate? The PB ends need something to be screwed into etc, so do we cut short sections of timber and place between the studs or is there some other cunning plan?

If I'm studding, I would lay 2 pieces of stud ( so same width as the sole plate ) and give myself something decent to fix the skirting to later down the road. Quicker and cheaper to do 2 pieces stood upright to give you the most height for fixing, and just work out what thickness of plywood ( usually 6mm ( 44mm stud x 2 = 88mm  so 6mm short of the average stud depth of 92mm )) to fit in between them to keep the infill flush to the stud-work. 

This is normally done from waste / off cuts anyway so should have little cost impact.

Remember to use DPM / DPC between the screed and the timber !

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8 minutes ago, bassanclan said:

Fit internal studwork after screeding

Assumed the question was about if the studwork was already in situ. @dpmiller ?

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@RedoctoberThanks for the pics

 

Where would you guys put the manifolds if you don't have a utility room? The UFH designer suggested under the stairs but the stair area is small and will have a large glass window so I'm thinking not to congest/clutter this area. I was thinking about having some large cupboards where the red arrow is in the kitchen and putting boiler/UFH there. Any thoughts appreciated 

 

UFH.thumb.png.fea670247ec40c67962a1a203052c400.png

 

 

Edited by Wagas
layout

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Nothing wrong with that, as long as that cupboard doesn't house perishables. Dont fix to the unit, fix to the wall so the cupboard doesn't turn into a drum ;)  

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On 08/06/2019 at 18:36, ragg987 said:

Ours was not properly fixed to the wall, essentially just hanging, until plastered and painted.

Mines just screwed to osb . Will box in after . Screeded floor first 

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3 hours ago, dpmiller said:

chasing some thoughts on this please  @PeterW @nod?

It preferable to have a nice level screed to put a couple of packers on But an practice in particularly on commercial work For what ever reason the finished floor isn’t in We normally just fire lengths of metal stud above the dpc to temporarily hold the boards or if it is wet plaster backing we snap a line and fit a 15 mil stop bead

On a house a couple of bricks will do the job

Or even a chalk line around the perimeter and tap a few nails in for the boards to sit on

Either way your plasterers won’t bother     

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10 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Assumed the question was about if the studwork was already in situ. @dpmiller ?

 

Yup, studs up as part of TF kit.

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5 hours ago, dpmiller said:

 

Yup, studs up as part of TF kit.

Strange, but true 🤔

Doubling up on the sole plate it is for you then. 😉

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thought so. External walls are battened out also so they'll need it too.  Ho-hum.

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