Kelvin

It doesn’t say anything about prep on their website instead it suggests you can plaster straight on to it. Although I only have a small triangle to plaster over that covers part of the stairs in a wardrobe.

It’s a marathon not a sprint. There will be several more hurdles to get over in your self-build journey. Each one can feel impossibly high to climb over but inevitably you’ll find a way.

I’d escalate that within Saffron as that’s ridiculous. Hardly any of the trades I used even have a website.

Nothing attached. I had a similar mental initial quote for 3 phase (£26.5k) the final cost for single phase was £475. This was with SSEN. I got a few quotes with them over the time and what I learnt was the planners aren’t consistent. For example, I let the first quote lapse and got a second quote for 3 phase and it was reduced to £15k for no apparent reason. However my connection wasn’t coming from a HV line. The fact that the contestable quote is dearer would suggest something is amiss with the quote. Therefore challenge that. Ask to speak to someone else or just phone in and speak to someone else. I thought the pricing had changed such that you no longer pay the full cost on your own as the cost is spread across the whole customer base.

It’s literally just plastered today so not yet. However the main ceiling light will look similar to this but with 7 lights. From here: https://www.glowlighting.co.uk/pages/gallery We will also have two double spot lights that are tucked in the corners plus some table lights and a large standard lamp.

There’s more work in that bi-fold as it’s not just a panel at the bottom. Nevertheless.

Speak to a different company. They might offer ii but they clearly don’t want to do it

Why do you want to do this? You could upgrade to 3G for less cost. You’ll find that any changes to their standard construction massively ups the cost.

70 years is a long time for a thatched roof to last. Has it been well maintained? I know their lifespan can be extended by replacing the top layer.

Uncle has one with a sort of tapered connecter down the chain so the chain us effectively inside a hopper a bit like what you pictured. It works in light rain but when it’s peeing down it doesn’t work. Fortunately his two chains come out of overhangs so it doesn’t splash up the building. It’s a Huf Haus.

There’s a very slight hum at the manifold with ours. The pumps are near silent. I’m very pleased with how quiet it is as the plant room backs onto the study. The ASHP is louder than I was expecting but it is running in floor drying mode currently.

If I open the vent on my Velux windows I can clearly hear our burn bubbling away 80m away. It’s a pleasant noise of course. Vents closed and it’s silent. I’m pretty sure I’ll be able to hear the ASHP too, certainly on the side closest to it despite it being on the East elevation

It’s not like the NHBC warranty that covers building defects in the first two years. This covers years 2-10 for things like foundations or drainage. It’s why it’s cheaper. If you just need it for the lenders then it should be ok. Check with your lender. We don’t have a mortgage but went with it in case we decided to sell within 10 years and the buyer’s were taking a mortgage out.

Ethernet backhaul in this context simply means that the Wi-Fi satellite you are connecting to with your phone transfers the data from the satellite via an ethernet cable which is faster and more reliable. There are different ways to do Ethernet backhaul. Some Wi-Fi satellites connect directly back to your router. Others connect two Wi-Fi satellites together. The reason for doing it is that it takes the load off the Wi-Fi network, faster, more robust.

Same here. (Scotland too) Just keep in mind it’s technically not a warranty.

Building control here (Perth and Kinross) weren’t happy with the first design and wanted pictures of what was built.

At a simple level hubs and switches do similar things, connecting devices together at a central point) Hubs distribute the data across the whole network whereas a switch will route data to just the requesting device among other things. Anything from Netgear or TP-Link will do. I have a Netgear switch largely because I needed POE.

Is the reason the borehole is so shallow because of the high water table? I know you can get river source GSHP installs. When I looked at GSHP the minimum depth is typically 15m. I have a redundant borehole so was going to use that but didn’t in the end.

The All in One battery claims 100% DoD. The figures above assume electricity pricing will remain constant which they obviously won’t whereas your capital cost is fixed. The battery storage economics are marginal and I’m still not 100% sure I’ll do it. I have budgeted for it in our build though.

The water is so muddy it will just fill up with silt. He needs to stop it getting down to the house. Enough rain and the house will be flooded.

There’s a trail about the road that runs past our plot that runs with water in the winter so much it overflows onto the road and into our garden. I cut shallow trenches in the trail at angle against the water and built up the back edge of each trench. The water now runs down the opposite side of the trail and into the ditch rather than across the road. It needs maintenance though every month or so.

The floor tiles don’t feel cold though as they will be slightly warmer than the room temp. In houses I’ve lived in with tiled floors and radiators vs UFH the UFH has always felt nicer to walk on barefoot.

Any plumbing system badly installed will leak. UFH should have no joints under the slab/floor or hidden in walls. Typically it’s all in one place with all the joins visible and accessible albeit you might have the manifolds in different parts of the house. Had three UFH systems going back almost 20 years. All the issues I’ve had have been the typical pump failures, valve failures, expansion vessel, and PSU.

Our house isn’t passive but it’s still very efficient and I’ve been heating it with one 2kW oil filled rad and it’s very comfortable. Once we are living there with all the appliances on etc we’d only need the rad on colder days. My ASHP is sitting on a pallet yet to be installed (being installed tomorrow) If I was doing this again I’d have got a bit closer to passive standard, built it a bit smaller, possibly slightly less glass and possibly not installed an ASHP with UFH. That said UFH is very nice underfoot.

Yes anything like that could mark the alu cladding. Ours said to make sure we kept the cladding free from any run off from the building materials. Ours weren’t so bad because it was just the run off from the wood cladding treatment so I just had a soft cloth and clean water on standby for a few weeks.