flanagaj

The Architects have basically said it's not their problem. "I have checked the drawings and I don’t believe there is an error. I have spoken to the surveyor and it seems that the issue is that you are having trouble determining the ownership boundary. The land registry plans provided are vague (as they always are) and therefore the fence line has been indicated as the boundary as this would typically define a legal boundary. If you are unsure then you should speak to your neighbour or appoint a specialist legal consultant. If it transpires that the dimensions shown on the approved planning drawings are altered significantly due to the building being relocated then an amendment to the permission should be sought. Please note that as stated on the drawings “All drawings marked preliminary or planning are not to be built or manufactured from.” And “Boundary line indicative only. Exact location must be determined on site before building work commences.” And in the Scope of services “The consultant is not responsible for ascertaining property boundary lines or any restrictive covenants. Should the Client be uncertain about their property boundaries he/she should consult Land Registry or their solicitor to determine these.”

It isn't marked as historic hedging and wasn't stated as such by Natural England

Given their is a fence and the hedging resides on our side of said fencing, it's interesting how they own the hedging. I'm in two minds to just rip it out and crack on. The thick red line on the Land Registry Title Plan document probably equates to 300mm when you apply the scale, I think it would be difficult for a boundary dispute to materialise.

I installed a 7 PE Graf with maxi extension just two weeks ago. I went with the raised outlet so as reduce the amount of excavation required for the drainage field. It was very straightforward.

Our static is being delivered next week and as a result of short timescales and lack of availability, I'm siting it with a chap who has a 4x4 and a 1.7t excavator. What I want to know is whether I need to buy axle stands or whether it's best to just put it on blocks? Any tips from those who've sited one themselves welcomed.

That's interesting. I wasn't aware that they state that they are not definitive.

It's not a ditch or a water course. My question is more around how an architect double checks the boundary line before they do any plans. No conversations were had and I can only assume that they took it on face value that the previously granted planning application was accurately done according to the actual boundary line. Which I think is maybe quite an assumption. I have contacted the architect, but I think the next thing to do is to get a surveyor to site to mark out the boundary according to land registry. This was impossible before we purchased the plot as a result of the cattery building that were there and tight up against the hedge line. I do think the boundary line is actually not where the original architects thought it was. This is a big mistake on our part as we should have had a professional land survey done to verify it.

200mm doesn't cut it. The house needs moving 500mm

Spoken with such nonchalance. Such advice, could in theory result in enforcement and you having to tear your house down.

Just to add, the approved site plan shows the below. I have absolutely no idea how 1.2 was arrived at. I have sent the original architects an email asking for their input. I assume that as we hired an architect and paid for the topographic survey which was instructed by the architect, liability for any cock up lies with one of them?

So the surveyor came back to site yesterday and marked out the building. He put pegs in the ground with a 1m offset. The peg at the North Eastern part of the building is smack bang in the middle of the hedge. Below is an image of the hedge line. As you can see it's a load of Hazel that was never maintained as a hedge and is therefore quite thick at ground level (18") So given I don't own the hedge, it's not going to be possible to remove it to said peg without ripping the whole lot out. I don't want to risk moving the house forward, without going via the official route of submitting a Section 73 application. This has caused us a real headache and have no idea how to proceed now.

The electrical kiosk is installed and so to is the kiosk housing the STP control box and compressor. I now need to figure out the best temporary solution for getting power to the static caravan, a couple of sockets and lights in the shed and also power to the STP kiosk. I assume the static caravan will have it's own consumer unit, so is it simply the case of putting a CU in the shed with a 32 amp RCD for the shed sockets, a 16 amp lighting RCD, a 16 amp MCB for the STP feed and a 63amp MCB for the static caravan?

I'm not having raft foundations. Maybe with the sleeper walls, it will be a lot of hassle.

I have absolutely no intention of trying it myself. Getting it wrong is terminal and unlike most other aspects of construction, redoing it, is going to be expensive and time consuming.

🤯 Hampshire is next door too! Can you DM their details and share any photos of the finished job please. 400m/2 is huge!

I decided to go for a power floated floor as it’s got an industrial finish to it. But I only want a PF finish, if it has that warehouse look. Hence, why I want it done right. Reworking the design is simple. The FFL stays the same, but I just instead work out out the over site depth according to. hardcore, sand blinding, membrane, concrete, insulation, screed. No?

A beehive sitting over the top would look quite neat. When your friends ask "What's that noise". You could reply "It's the bees" 😂

I might have to have a rethink and do the floors in the conventional approach of a concrete slab and then insulation and screed at a later date, if I cannot find a company who can do the floors at a sensible price.

I want a power floated floor that will be acceptable as a finished floor without any polishing. Received a quote today and they want £32k inc vat for 140m2. I just cannot fathom how such ridiculous quotes can be arrived at. In fact, I find it insulting that these companies even try and charge that amount. It's 2 days work. I know some on here have power floated their own floors, but it's not something I really fancy trying myself, unless I maybe do the garage floor first and then do the house if that goes ok.

@MortarThePoint - If you are concerned about whether to use concrete or not, I'd suggest spending sometime on the BGS web site GeoIndex - British Geological Survey you might find some bore hole related data for your area. If the water table is many metres below the surface, then you could simply back fill with gravel as there is no risk of your tank floating out of the ground due to a high water table.

I installed a Graf One 2 Clean. We are fortunate as it's chalk bedrock at about 1m and the water table is about 60ft below the surface. As a result we backfilled with 10mm pea shingle as per Graf's installation details.

I had to excavate a 3m * 3m * 2.6m hole for our tank. Digging the hole took a day with a 2.7T Kubota and then another day putting the tank in. Filling the tank with water before back filling each section took a long time. A bowser would have helped. I would also hire the excavator for a week as it's nearly the same price. Don't forget you'll need a dumper and have a lot of muck away too.

Agreed. It's not rocket science and it just requires a lase level and understanding the necessary falls / inverts. I reckon I saved over 10k doing it myself with one other chap.

I ended up venting at the distribution chamber and used a vent with a carbon filter. Hopefully, it will be ok.

That is a good one. I'll see how things pan out and might end up saying that to her if she starts complaining.