flanagaj

So I did apply it correctly. Maybe not enough or should have used a Wax or Resin based agent.

So feel free to have a chuckle to yourself, but the SCC pour went really well and the stuff is absolutely amazing. Slabs level to 2mm. What didn't go well and this was partly due to a lack of information available and me not appreciating the associated risks of trying to pour slabs in weather that is so hot, was the curing. Slabs unfortunately look like crazy paving. Curing agent was applied, but when it states "immediately after finishing" they don't mean dappling and when the concrete is still fluid. Cemex also advised that microfibers should be added, but then somehow didn't adjust the order (yes! I should have double checked) so that didn't help. Having A252 mesh has probably saved me from having to condemn them. But I would still recommend this can be done as DIY. So long as you can use a laser level and set up screed levelling tripods, then you will be amazed at how flat and level you can get slabs just by using a dapple bar. Just be careful of doing it in hot weather, as SCC has low water and a high cement content so not as forgiving as normal concrete. Note - I purposely didn't dapple a shallow pass on this slab as the finish from the first pass was perfectly good enough for below PIR As to pouring the remaining slabs. Well. I'm too nervous now. Especially, given the weather and previous attempt. Was considering using Hessian and water curing, but even then I am unsure. It's 15c at 8am when I poured and by 10am it's absolutely roasting and probably 26c VID-20260801-WA0007.mp4

Yes. I will report back, even if it goes horribly wrong. Hopefully, it won't. Would be nice if the weather a bit cooler, but I need to get the slabs down as I don't like leaving the membrane and still uncovered as one will degrade with UV and the other will just rust more.

The truck can reverse right up to the slab area and with the 2.4m chute will pretty much be able to get the concrete into the middle of each bay.

My question and I wish I hadn't bothered asking was merely to understand whether SCC is a suitable choice for ground bearing slabs. All of the other due diligence regarding shuttering / vehicle access / ensuring DPM is sealed with butyl tape and edges taped, mesh correctly installed, BCO signed off has been done. Just for the record, I am not a complete muppet.

Ok, thanks. What about washout water from mixers and concrete readymix trucks?

To date, the bricklayers and myself included have simply washed mixers out and discarded the washout water onto the ground. I am curious as to what others do as most of the options available for capturing washout are for large sites where they can have dedicated washout bins and recycle the water. For a domestic self build, that approach is not obviously not viable. We don't have any water courses / drains in the vicinity and water table is 60ft below.

My main motivation for using SCC was merely due to the following. 1) Short of labour. It's just my wife and I 2) Due to the bricklayer rushing ahead and not being very accurate, we don't have the ability to tamp, plus tamping is hard going when only two of you. Why do you say SCC needs to be handled by experts. I'm very curious as the video below suggests otherwise. I appreciate that it's a marketing video, but I wouldn't say there's anything expert going on here.

2 of us. I think I'll be raking as SCC is too liquid to be shovelling.

Apologies for the confusion. I am merely talking about the ground bearing slabs and it has nothing to do with pouring the screed layer. The slabs are basic. 150mm thick reinforced with A252 mesh and all prep work signed off by BC last Friday. Slabs for house will eventually be covered with 150mm PIR, VCL and then screed. Garage slab will be left as is and hoping that SCC will provide an adequate finish and negate having to use another finishing self levelling compound. So just to reiterate and avoid confusion, this is simply about placing the concrete for the ground bearing reinforced slabs.

The concrete company I was planning on using wouldn't put anything in writing, so I've cancelled them and am going to pour SCC slabs myself. Ordered the items below Screed levelling tripods 2m dapple bar Concrete curing spray applicator Still need to order concrete curing liquid, but have read I need something like https://www.basetec.co.uk/product/adomast-adocure-super-90-efficiency-concrete-curing-compound-25-litre/?srsltid=AfmBOorxYXyscZ_1VVJ7ucvmRyLi4QzWQFiEre_tL2fbDiv2bvj-OyGh It's not rocket science and my biggest slab is 6mx6m, so all manageable. I'll report back when done.

Not planning on using dyes and will order the required 10 ton of sand in one go, so as to avoid possibility of slight colour shift.

That is what my wife likes too.

It’s brick facade for ground floor and then thermowood Ash cladding for upper floor. I like the white as although it has high contrast, it’s the most contemporary looking.

Keen to see what mortar colour people this works best with the bricks we’ve chosen. i appreciate it’s subjective, but the wife and I are currently in disagreement.

I'm assuming that as it's construction, the hose pipe ban that's in place does not apply. I like the idea and it saves covering the concrete with polythene sheeting.

I love the sunny weather, but sometimes it really is hard work being out there from 8am to 6pm. Today’s task was supposed to have been finishing the Radon membrane on the garage, laying the XPS 300 insulation and then finishing the remaining slab prep in the house. As always, I over estimate one’s ability. Thankfully, I have a good boss who is ok with me taking days off at very short notice. So I have to get this finished tomorrow. Install vcl on top of insulation, lay mesh and then finish final slab prep in the house.

Thanks. Hopefully, the 1% won't cause me to fail building inspector visit on Friday. Keen to understand the 1% for next time 😂. Block & Beam next time.

Yes. LABC manual stated that it needed to be encased with concrete.

Block and beam? No! Ground bearing slabs. A decision that has given me sleepless nights and resulted in some serious hard graft. We had 60 ton (that’s what we were told 🤔) of Type 1 MOT delivered and had to then proceed to get into the bays and levelled up, before compacting it. The brickie was an arse as he should have stopped building and said “get your hardcore in and laid”. His work was rather shit, so I knocked some of it down to enable me to get a dumper in distribute the piles to make levelling it quicker. Building control were fine with me using grano dust as the top layer. This compacts nicely and gives a much harder surface than sand. Below are a few pictures. Hoping to get everything finished by tomorrow. I’ll breath a sigh of relief that it’s done and dusted.

Thanks @saveasteading that was my exact thought process as well. I can then lap up the DPM on the inside of the inner leaf which can then potentially be placed under the bottom seal rail of the garage door. This will stop damp from being able to make it's way through into the garage. I always that that whilst taking the slab and mesh through the opening gives a solid base for vehicles going into the garage, the top will be exposed to the elements and if you have a garage door that sits behind the inner leaf, you have a visible 350mm slab of concrete that if not finished well when poured will look a bit naff.

I appreciate that you guys have been doing this for a long time and I suspect that you are all very fortunate to have created a 'goto' list of trades for certain jobs. Most of my questions are around using the forum to either get validation on a specific process or where I simply cannot find the detail I require. I shoulder blame partly there by not choosing a decent architect who in theory is the person who should detail every aspect.

It's not that simple @Gus Potter unfortunately, we moved to an area where I have zero connections. Previously, I knew many, but it's too far to travel. The downfall was in thinking that I could find reputable trades who would do a good job. This has been an absolute mare and it's akin to the Wild West. Shysters who are either shit or think they can take you for a ride. Our last bricklayer was exactly that. As soon as I picked him up on his levels being out, I'm convinced he binned us off, but continued for 5 days before walking off site and onto a new house build for a builder. In hindsight, a single contractor for a shell would have been the best option, but I'm here now and I've just got to get slabs done and then the next lot of bricklayers can start mid August. Unlike many on here, we are not blessed with deep pockets and have to watch every penny. This build is being done on the basis of keeping to the Estimators QS and that means me managing trades. The question I have for everyone is what is this site for? I ask questions, because either they are not specified in the LABC manual or the trades person I'm dealing with does not fill me with confidence, that they know what they are doing. Just for the record, the concrete company is a large Southampton based outfit and not some bloke who happened to overhear a conversation in the pub. So by that very nature, I'd expect them to be professional and make sure the slabs are done to industry standard and protected from shrinkage post pour. I also don't know what you mean by 'big boy hat'. Am I to start getting violent with these people when they deliver substandard work? I've already sacked two bricklayers, so it's not as if I cannot have the conversations. It's finding reputable individuals.

I have found a company to come and pour and 'finish' the concrete slabs next week. As always, everything is vague and nothing is done with a formal contract. Just been told the job has been booked in. Should the company be responsible for applying a curing agent as they have already said that they don't provide polythene sheeting to cover it to aid curing.

I don't think I can start cutting sections out, as then it won't be connected to the other sheets. I might ask building control to comment