flanagaj

I am having a real dilemma regarding getting our site configured for a static caravan. There is a 1000 gallon septic tank already on site, but unfortunately, when I pulled the trench for the new water main I pulled through the drainage field pipe. The pipe was not perforated soil pipe like you use nowadays, but the flexible drainage pipe with slots all over it. The reason it's causing a headache, is for the following reason a) it would be much easier if we could simply connect the caravan to the existing septic tank. This would save me having to install the new plant and drainage field now and run 34m pipe from the caravan to the new tank. It would also enable us to get living on site quickly and without having to renew our rental tenancy. b) The main concern is that the new water main pipe is running under the existing drainage field and I am now thinking whether I should have installed barrier pipe instead of MDPE. Or whether I don't need to worry as you won't get contamination through the pipe unless it's oil based products that are in the soil.

I have a load of chunky rubble, from a huge concrete slab that was broken up. I suspect that you want to use hardcore or something like 20mm gravel that won't settle over time?

I too need to decommission one on our plot shortly. All the literature states "You need an expert" Yawn. I have had the tank emptied, but I am now wondering whether I should have also had it jetted, or whether it's a case of just cracking on.

I must admit, I do like "Vertical distribution". Not heard that term before.

This is what we too have now concluded.

Just received another quote from a building contractor and not only is it 30k more than the last, but it includes 9k for a Foreman. When I used to labour as a youngster for a two brickies, the only time I remember there being a Foreman on site was when we working on large projects, eg schools or hospitals. (Rant alert) - All I want, is a 2 * 1 gang who can build the shell up to plate and do a good job. Here is the prelims Basically that 60k to build a 200m2 house with attached single storey double garage.

If anyone is still interested, I reached out to GSE and the sent me the PDF files below. I found them helpful. IR-ZJD-MeO v2.pdf CAL-XXX-1x10 Ply_Zinc Po_1000.pdf

I have been researching standing seam at great length and have looked at Catnic and others, but I received a quote from Our Successful Projects | Roofing Supply Store UK | Pagurek today and I must say it beats the others very nicely. I have no affiliation to them, but they have some good resources in relation to installation and it's a click fit system too.

That is my experience as well now. Given they are basically coming in at the same price, I just need to decide whether I want to go for aluminium or timber ali-clad. I like the better U values of al-clad, but I think I prefer the aluminium for the thinner sight lines.

I am keen to hear about the GSE as like you say, it negates slate or standing seam for a large area. Haven't found any online resources that are detailed enough to understand how you install GSE with standing seam.

That is correct. The solar PV quote was just to see how much it would cost and I cannot afford it.

I take your point. I am really interested in fitting standard PV panels using the GSE tray system. It makes complete sense to effectively use the panels as a roof covering as opposed to fitting a roof underneath.

I don't follow why it will cost you more. If they zero rate the VAT, haven't you just not paid VAT on the purchase?

So we have had a quote for both aluminium and aluminium timber cladding. The aluminium quote for supply only is surprisingly 2.5k more, but when I then apply the 10% August discount (not sure it's a real discount) and the installation cost which is 3.5k cheaper, the aluminium offering is 5k less. I was always told aluminium clad is more expensive as it's a better product and the U values are lower, so now I'm sceptical about the aluminium quote and wondering whether I could reduce the installation cost of the aluminium timber cladding by installing the smaller 1.1m*1.2m ones myself. The ali-clad installation cost for 60m2 is nearly 27% of the cost of the doors and windows!

These are the bonded panels and not sure who is creaming off the 9.5k

I have just discovered the GSE panel option, but there is very little information regarding using them with standing seam roofing sheets. Keen to hear if anyone has an update or a resource which shows how this can be achieved. I suspect that by using conventional solar PV panels and GSE, you can save a small fortune over solar PV bonded to standing seam sheets.

This is a potentially interesting option. I had a quote back today for having PV bonded onto the seam sealed roofing sheets prior to installation and for 8.5Kw it is £10.5k. I am keen to understand what you are paying for your PV and how much the materials are to mount the PV cells. I am planning on fitting the seam sealed roof myself and that is coming in at ~ £50/m2 supply only. Do you have a link to the PV supplier you are using?

I did look for it, but could not find it. Will that be cheaper than going the grant route?

But does it work out cheaper than buying the ashp and cylinder outside of the grant scheme and then getting a mcs certified installer to commission it. As a cynic, I can't help but think the grant scheme is just a licence for installers to just make extra money.

"MCS Umbrella scheme" - thanks, I'll look into that.

I know this might sound like a stupid question, but how do you go about getting the grant for a heat pump and making sure that is was given and not swallowed up by the supplier. My plan is to purchase a 5K ASHP that can run in both heating and cooling mode and I also want a 250 litre cylinder, but I have no idea whether the price I see listed on websites for the ASHP is with the grant taken into consideration or not. Is it possible to get all the parts as supply only and I can then fit them and get them commissioned when ready?

So Jeremy's heat loss calculator gave me a 3.7Kw value. I plugged these details into ChatGPT and it has come up with the below. Anyone care to cast their eye over it and see if what it is suggesting looks correct. Awesome—thanks for the room schedule. Here’s a crisp sizing plan that fits your 5 kW reversible ASHP, gives proper bedroom cooling with dehumidification, and uses UFH for gentle background cooling downstairs. Bedroom cooling (use small hydronic fan coils) Rule-of-thumb sensible loads in a well-insulated UK home: Standard beds: ~35–45 W/m² Master: ~40–50 W/m² (bigger volume/glazing) Recommended FCU sensible capacities (at ~7/12 °C water, 27 °C room): Room Area Est. sensible load Suggested FCU Master 30 m² 1.2–1.5 kW ~1.5 kW unit (quiet on low) Bed 1 19 m² 0.7–0.9 kW ~1.0–1.2 kW unit Bed 2 15 m² 0.6–0.8 kW ~0.8–1.0 kW unit Bed 3 14 m² 0.5–0.7 kW ~0.8–1.0 kW unit Notes Bedrooms are carpeted (good for heating comfort; irrelevant for FCU cooling). These small FCUs give you latent removal (dehumidification)—the key to comfortable sleep. Downstairs cooling (UFH + optional 1 FCU) Polished concrete is perfect for UFH cooling, but radiant floors don’t dehumidify and must stay above dew-point. UFH cooling outputs you can bank on (safe, quiet): With supply ≥18–19 °C and typical UK indoor ~24 °C / 50–55% RH → ~20–35 W/m² Expected background cooling from UFH: Kitchen-diner 35 m² → ~0.7–1.1 kW Lounge 19.5 m² → ~0.4–0.7 kW Downstairs UFH total: ~1.1–1.8 kW Optional add-on for muggy days / solar gain: 1 discreet FCU in the kitchen-diner, ~1.5–2.0 kW sensible, to mop up humidity and peaks. (Highly recommended with big south glazing.) Diversity vs your ~5 kW ASHP Likely coincident demand: Master + one small bedroom + some UFH ≈ 3–4 kW, which your 5 kW unit handles easily. Even with all bedrooms calling, fan speeds modulate and loads are rarely simultaneous at peak. The optional downstairs FCU can be limited by control if needed. Control & safeguards (important) FCU loop: chilled water 7–12 °C, each FCU on a 2-port valve, own small circulator, proper condensate drains. UFH cooling loop: enforce dew-point control. Example: at 24 °C / 55% RH, dew point ≈ 15 °C → cap UFH supply at ≥17–19 °C (controller with RH/temperature input or dedicated dew-point sensor). Modes: Heating: weather-comp 35–40 °C to UFH. Cooling: FCUs on 7–12 °C; UFH at dew-point-safe setpoint. DHW: priority reheat; weekly 60 °C pasteurisation. DHW (2 occupants, occasional 6) Cylinder: 200–250 L, heat-pump coil ≥2 m². Recovery: 5 kW ASHP reheats 200–250 L (10→45 °C) in ~60–90 min. On guest days, schedule a mid-evening top-up. Quick bill of materials (to brief installer) Reversible ~5 kW air-to-water ASHP, min modulation ≤1–1.5 kW. HP-ready 200–250 L cylinder, ≥2 m² coil, DHW priority + weekly pasteurisation. Bedroom FCUs: ~1.5 kW (Master), ~1.0–1.2 kW (Bed1), ~0.8–1.0 kW (Bed2), ~0.8–1.0 kW (Bed3). Downstairs: UFH cooling with dew-point protection (+ optional 1.5–2.0 kW FCU in kitchen-diner). Hydraulics: FCU chilled loop with own pump; UFH on mixing/limit control; 3-port diverter for DHW. Low-loss header only if flow stability demands it. If you want, I can translate this into specific FCU model sizes (wall/console or slim ducted) and a control sequence (setpoints, interlocks, sensors) tailored to your preferred brands.

After some deliberation, I think I am going to ask the architect to submit a variation of condition for solar PV in the south facing roof. We have a 17m * 4m roof which is going to be standing seam. I did consider Catnic Solar, but I think the cost will be way too much and I was wondering whether there are any other options to have solar integrated into the roof. I am not a fan of the panels being fitted on top of the roof as I think it looks clunky. Has anyone installed solar PV with standing seam and if so, what did you go with. Pictures would be great.

I have started doing my own research, but unsure whether it is correct or not.

I have become rather bewildered regarding what aspects I need to do and it what order. The technical architect is currently doing the drawings for building regs submission and another company (UK building compliance) are doing the following. L1A SAP 10 Calculations New Build (inc Design, As Built & EPC)Design Stage SAP L1A Assessments and PEAs a. Assessment under the 2021 Part L Building Regulations; b. Design Final Checklists for Building Control; c. Predicted Energy Assessments (PEAs); d. Thermal Bridging Calculation (y-value) based on Accredited Details (if used); e. Thermal Mass Parameter Calculation; f. Assistance with thermal, heating, lighting and renewable specification (including revisions); g. To include for unlimited specification revisions; h. Access to Dashpivot app for recording of photographic evidence. As-Built SAP L1a Assessments and EPCs a. Assessment under the 2021 Part L Building Regulations; b. As-Built Final L1a Checklists for Building Control; c. BREL report; d. Verification of photographic evidence; e. Energy Performance Certificates (EPCs).1.00310.00310.00 Water Efficiency CalculationsPart G Water Efficiency Calculation/s, consumption to meet requirement of 125L (or less if required) per person per day. Includes PDF Report.1.0095.0095.00CIBSE TM59 Overheating AssessmentDetailed overheating assessment in accordance with CIBSE TM59. To demonstrate compliance with Part O Building Regulations 2021. To include for an appropriate sample requirement & x 1 re-run of the calculations Do I need to wait for the details of this information, before I can start designing the UFH and ASHP? I did put the details in Jeremy's spreadsheet, but I am bemused as to what order to do things. Any pointers welcomed.