Jenki
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Everything posted by Jenki
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was going to get them delivered to me in Preston and take them with me. on one of my trips.. hopefully got some storage sorted in Wick.
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I assumed and this is always a problem, that it was a standard controller and those parameters did nothing to the ASHP unit.? there is a note at the bottom "Note: some parameter is not effective for the unit, so the have a “---------------- ”
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That's my thought... just want to make sure I'm not missing something..
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I've got two cabins to supply, so the tank will be in an amenity / service block, so just need to heat 300L of water and keep it warm to keep people happy.
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AHP-60 Manual.pdf There's a couple left, maybe more, offered me a little saving if I bought 2. ?
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Why do you say non invertor style? It says DC invertor? I thought the pool heater had large flow and return in the 2" range? Also will heat water to 55 although the COP will fluctuate - I thought most pool heaters will only get to 40?
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£1100 delivered
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HI all. Would anyone with some knowledge like to give me an opinion on the AHP60 ASHP. Spec attached. its in conjunction with my other post, so run this to heat a 300L UVC for 2 camping pods. the money is good, brand new 3 year warranty. It is cheaper than the Dream units on ebay. and at this cost is sort of a no brainer unless someone see's a big issue. I've taken into account that parts if not local will take an age from China, but the immersions (on the tank) will be my back up. Might be convinced to buy 2 and use for the house as well... AHP60Spec.pdf
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As @nod Said, it will need undercoat plaster to flatten the wall first using a Darby or screed beams (if these are big undulations) then skim. otherwise the skim coat will follow the base and still be bumpy - better but bumpy. I thought you had rough plaster?
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Hi..I've got the chance of picking up a cheap second hand Heatrae Sadia Megaflo 300L Unvented indirect solar cylinder model cl300 solar. Would it be possible to use this with an ashp for DHW only (heating not required.)?
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You can get branches that join 2 pipes together and exit to a third like a tee. You might need a short section of pipe to fit in a bend that the WC connector will fit. You can also get adjustable bends that allow different angles of pipe to be joined. Photo's would help a lot.
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I've just got myself an old Ford 550. I think a pecker will destroy her?. So resigned to hiring in a big machine and pecker.
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- the windy roost
- rock breaker
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The water main running along my field edge was blasted. (1950s) they got it down to 800mm. and used the spoil for backfill this is the info I need. Thanks - what's the learning curve like using the pecker? I've experience with 360 machines, just not using the pecker attachment, my other option would be to hire with operator, and follow around clearing the broken rock with a backhoe to speed up the process? I could have the site ready, the trenches dug, area for soakaway, treatment plant cleared and levels set etc, then get the big machine in to do all required breaking in one go.?
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Sorry, Rock is at a depth of 300mm, under this rock is lots more rock?. Was never intending a hand breaker, trying to get an idea of time with a machine. Rock breaker around £400 / week to hire plus machine so say £1000/ week. You can buy rock breakers for around 2K. was wondering is the maths suggest buy and re sell later, or just take the hit with the hire costs.. I may well have to break out the trenches for pipes and soakaway so may need it around a bit.
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Hi all, I'm after any info you have from experience of what can be achieved (volume over time) breaking bed rock. Our plot is on the granite slabs up in Caithness. The percolation test failed with rock at 400mm depth. Recent investigations of the water main showed that rock is 300mm deep at the front of our field. ( The main was laid in blasted trenches 800mm deep.) So I know I'll need to rock break to install treatment plant. But I've no experience with machine attached rock breakers. If I install a marsh shallow dig, it's still around 2.6m X 1.6m x1.6m mostly rock. So trying to get an idea of how long it will take to remove 6 cube of rock. The figures will help decide weather to rent or purchase a breaker for a machine. With a view to selling at the end. I've had figures of £300+v/week to rent. Any info would be appreciated.
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Battens for External Wood fibre insulation
Jenki replied to Jenki's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
I've seen some corner battens that cover the end of the board( instead of being able to see the cut edge). They are 2 perpendicular slots. I'll need to get some dimensions to see how big the back flange is. If I can screw into that then it would be considerably easier process. Like you say the next batten will only be 250 mm away. I will have a similar issue on the reveals. -
Hi all, whilst waiting for the building warrant I'm getting into details. My proposed build will be timber frame, with an external layer of 100mm wood fibre insulation on the exterior wall. The original plan was to render this, but with documented issues, I've changed tack and will be cladding with Hardie board. When it comes to the installation of the Hardie board I need to be able to fix the corner trims securely, but with 100mm wood fibre this is difficult. I've drawn a solution and welcome comments. (just realised my Stud layout is not correct- forgive me, but the details work) main questions would be, as i've never cut wood fibre, how easy will it be to cut the rebate in the ends of the boards, I have a large table saw / circular saws etc. Does anybody see an easier solution? Any problems? TIA A thought I've just had as typing this, as the frame will be made on site, is to change 1 of the corner studs to 10x2, thus removing the 4x2? need to draw this might need some really long screws.
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Permaroof- Derby, who held training courses suggested a fitting cost or around £50/ £60 /SM+vat. this would be the cost of rubber / trims / adhesives. if there are lanterns etc, then that would rise. this cost would be just laying rubber from a finished deck.
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'Nother fine mess: too tight for fireboard and comfort
Jenki replied to ToughButterCup's topic in General Structural Issues
Total agree, the fist SI was way worse, he wanted a pillar in the middle. I have to buy bigger spanners / sockets for the bolts. 36MM IIRC. 7.6M Long just shy of 800kg beam about 1100kg with columns They called it a portal frame, with the intension of stopping the front and back walls pulling away in winds etc.? although the beam is not connected to either?
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'Nother fine mess: too tight for fireboard and comfort
Jenki replied to ToughButterCup's topic in General Structural Issues
Always makes me smile the instance of Pink boarding steel, I recently converted a shop (terrace house) into a big shop (2 terrace houses), the party wall was single skin brick. we took out most of the downstairs party wall leaving 1M at each end, SE made me dig new foundations (1.5M * 1.5M sq) 2 cube of C35 in each with Mesh, then the steel was 305x305 x118 UC, on 2 x 203 x203x60 Columns. They were massive, bolted together etc. BI never questioned the bolts, Torque etc, just said make sure you fire line that beam ?..... More importantly, if this was a beam between floor joists you would only under board the beam with fireline, the web, ends etc would be unprotected. and acceptable. My suggestion would be to fire line the underneath of the stairs then under the beam, cant see from the photo the details you posted. is this beam canter levered? -
Keeping the dust down - sealing a screed floor
Jenki replied to Conor's topic in Waterproofing & Sealants
I don't think you want to seal it, as the moisture still needs to escape, I think you can use a concrete stabilising solution, but you need to check with the screed manufacturer for suitability https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj5uKbbhtn1AhVK1O0KHYnpDtoYABALGgJkZw&ae=2&sig=AOD64_37KuEhO7wsYK2X51Rj0uk89Rno1w&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwigzpzbhtn1AhUPecAKHV1KBFgQ9aACegQIARBV&adurl= -
We're not eligible but thanks.. Not Eligible to apply No assistance can be given for connections to property which is used for a commercial or semi-commercial operation. Applications solely for deviation works are outwith the remit of the Trust and will not be considered.
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Thanks will look at this. The croft grant scheme also maybe able to assist.
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on my list, thanks?
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Appreciate the concerns with a tracked digger vs loader. but I've got loads of material to lift / move. the loader will help move the 30+ tonnes of stone required for track / house. easily 30Tonnes of spoil from the stripping of the land, 80M trenches etc.. Loader will help move materials for the house build i.e. plaster board, insulation, tiles osb etc. and also raise the walls for the house- this is self stick build on site. also moving trusses etc. The land is an old quarry, our percolation test hit bedrock at 400mm, so bogging down not too much of an issue, although is a concern. 3 tonne machine wont do half of the work. every penny we spend need to pay its way..... insurance is our backstop on it being nicked...
