Jenki

That's my thought... just want to make sure I'm not missing something..

I've got two cabins to supply, so the tank will be in an amenity / service block, so just need to heat 300L of water and keep it warm to keep people happy.

AHP-60 Manual.pdf There's a couple left, maybe more, offered me a little saving if I bought 2. ?

Why do you say non invertor style? It says DC invertor? I thought the pool heater had large flow and return in the 2" range? Also will heat water to 55 although the COP will fluctuate - I thought most pool heaters will only get to 40?

£1100 delivered

HI all. Would anyone with some knowledge like to give me an opinion on the AHP60 ASHP. Spec attached. its in conjunction with my other post, so run this to heat a 300L UVC for 2 camping pods. the money is good, brand new 3 year warranty. It is cheaper than the Dream units on ebay. and at this cost is sort of a no brainer unless someone see's a big issue. I've taken into account that parts if not local will take an age from China, but the immersions (on the tank) will be my back up. Might be convinced to buy 2 and use for the house as well... AHP60Spec.pdf

As @nod Said, it will need undercoat plaster to flatten the wall first using a Darby or screed beams (if these are big undulations) then skim. otherwise the skim coat will follow the base and still be bumpy - better but bumpy. I thought you had rough plaster?

Hi..I've got the chance of picking up a cheap second hand Heatrae Sadia Megaflo 300L Unvented indirect solar cylinder model cl300 solar. Would it be possible to use this with an ashp for DHW only (heating not required.)?

You can get branches that join 2 pipes together and exit to a third like a tee. You might need a short section of pipe to fit in a bend that the WC connector will fit. You can also get adjustable bends that allow different angles of pipe to be joined. Photo's would help a lot.

I've just got myself an old Ford 550. I think a pecker will destroy her?. So resigned to hiring in a big machine and pecker.

The water main running along my field edge was blasted. (1950s) they got it down to 800mm. and used the spoil for backfill this is the info I need. Thanks - what's the learning curve like using the pecker? I've experience with 360 machines, just not using the pecker attachment, my other option would be to hire with operator, and follow around clearing the broken rock with a backhoe to speed up the process? I could have the site ready, the trenches dug, area for soakaway, treatment plant cleared and levels set etc, then get the big machine in to do all required breaking in one go.?

Sorry, Rock is at a depth of 300mm, under this rock is lots more rock?. Was never intending a hand breaker, trying to get an idea of time with a machine. Rock breaker around £400 / week to hire plus machine so say £1000/ week. You can buy rock breakers for around 2K. was wondering is the maths suggest buy and re sell later, or just take the hit with the hire costs.. I may well have to break out the trenches for pipes and soakaway so may need it around a bit.

Hi all, I'm after any info you have from experience of what can be achieved (volume over time) breaking bed rock. Our plot is on the granite slabs up in Caithness. The percolation test failed with rock at 400mm depth. Recent investigations of the water main showed that rock is 300mm deep at the front of our field. ( The main was laid in blasted trenches 800mm deep.) So I know I'll need to rock break to install treatment plant. But I've no experience with machine attached rock breakers. If I install a marsh shallow dig, it's still around 2.6m X 1.6m x1.6m mostly rock. So trying to get an idea of how long it will take to remove 6 cube of rock. The figures will help decide weather to rent or purchase a breaker for a machine. With a view to selling at the end. I've had figures of £300+v/week to rent. Any info would be appreciated.

I've seen some corner battens that cover the end of the board( instead of being able to see the cut edge). They are 2 perpendicular slots. I'll need to get some dimensions to see how big the back flange is. If I can screw into that then it would be considerably easier process. Like you say the next batten will only be 250 mm away. I will have a similar issue on the reveals.

Hi all, whilst waiting for the building warrant I'm getting into details. My proposed build will be timber frame, with an external layer of 100mm wood fibre insulation on the exterior wall. The original plan was to render this, but with documented issues, I've changed tack and will be cladding with Hardie board. When it comes to the installation of the Hardie board I need to be able to fix the corner trims securely, but with 100mm wood fibre this is difficult. I've drawn a solution and welcome comments. (just realised my Stud layout is not correct- forgive me, but the details work) main questions would be, as i've never cut wood fibre, how easy will it be to cut the rebate in the ends of the boards, I have a large table saw / circular saws etc. Does anybody see an easier solution? Any problems? TIA A thought I've just had as typing this, as the frame will be made on site, is to change 1 of the corner studs to 10x2, thus removing the 4x2? need to draw this might need some really long screws.

Permaroof- Derby, who held training courses suggested a fitting cost or around £50/ £60 /SM+vat. this would be the cost of rubber / trims / adhesives. if there are lanterns etc, then that would rise. this cost would be just laying rubber from a finished deck.

Total agree, the fist SI was way worse, he wanted a pillar in the middle. I have to buy bigger spanners / sockets for the bolts. 36MM IIRC. 7.6M Long just shy of 800kg beam about 1100kg with columns They called it a portal frame, with the intension of stopping the front and back walls pulling away in winds etc.? although the beam is not connected to either?

Always makes me smile the instance of Pink boarding steel, I recently converted a shop (terrace house) into a big shop (2 terrace houses), the party wall was single skin brick. we took out most of the downstairs party wall leaving 1M at each end, SE made me dig new foundations (1.5M * 1.5M sq) 2 cube of C35 in each with Mesh, then the steel was 305x305 x118 UC, on 2 x 203 x203x60 Columns. They were massive, bolted together etc. BI never questioned the bolts, Torque etc, just said make sure you fire line that beam ?..... More importantly, if this was a beam between floor joists you would only under board the beam with fireline, the web, ends etc would be unprotected. and acceptable. My suggestion would be to fire line the underneath of the stairs then under the beam, cant see from the photo the details you posted. is this beam canter levered?

I don't think you want to seal it, as the moisture still needs to escape, I think you can use a concrete stabilising solution, but you need to check with the screed manufacturer for suitability https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj5uKbbhtn1AhVK1O0KHYnpDtoYABALGgJkZw&ae=2&sig=AOD64_37KuEhO7wsYK2X51Rj0uk89Rno1w&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwigzpzbhtn1AhUPecAKHV1KBFgQ9aACegQIARBV&adurl=

We're not eligible but thanks.. Not Eligible to apply No assistance can be given for connections to property which is used for a commercial or semi-commercial operation. Applications solely for deviation works are outwith the remit of the Trust and will not be considered.

Thanks will look at this. The croft grant scheme also maybe able to assist.

on my list, thanks?

Appreciate the concerns with a tracked digger vs loader. but I've got loads of material to lift / move. the loader will help move the 30+ tonnes of stone required for track / house. easily 30Tonnes of spoil from the stripping of the land, 80M trenches etc.. Loader will help move materials for the house build i.e. plaster board, insulation, tiles osb etc. and also raise the walls for the house- this is self stick build on site. also moving trusses etc. The land is an old quarry, our percolation test hit bedrock at 400mm, so bogging down not too much of an issue, although is a concern. 3 tonne machine wont do half of the work. every penny we spend need to pay its way..... insurance is our backstop on it being nicked...

The story so far. My background of building has helped; our modest budget dictates the house will be modest and simple. Highland planning guidance wants single or 1.5 storey houses, ideally traditional looking, or architecturally beneficial. Architects as a whole are probably the most important people to take Ideas and turn them into a deliverable home. Unfortunately an architect for us is unaffordable. We have a budget, and we have to squeeze and leverage every penny from it. So doing away with every fee / service we can has to become a mindset. So we sketch out our plans, make paper models for floor space, list what we want, we need then categorize these into must haves. Our must have boiled down to: 2 bedrooms, Office space, utility / boot room, WC in / near the Boot room for when were outside, Kitchen, Lounge, Bathroom I spent hours reading blogs, and topics, researching timber frame companies and the like. Once we had the outline we now needed the land. We visited lots of crofts* for sale, some as little as 10K some with building some with houses with land from 1 acre and 50 acre. Made enquires for electricity on 1 plot to be given an estimate of 30K for connection. Eventually we put a cheeky offer in for the croft and after a bit of back and forth bought our croft. I printed off lots of drawings from successful applications on the planning website, and used these as basis for the information we needed, to make the whole project possible we needed to add a couple of camping pods into the mix, and to this we needed lots of drawings and lots of information. I never asked for quotes as I knew we couldn’t afford somebody else to draw them. I have used cad before, a long time ago when I was in engineering, and to a lesser extent for building works (floor plans etc), but I had never produced scaled drawings. I found the software Arcon Evo, and this seemed like a solution. I downloaded the trial and started messing around with it. It’s buggy, but after a few hours I was thinking I might be able to pull this off, so I spent £300 for the full blown version, and set out drawing. The software is clever, you can make your own walls, similar to build up in a U value calculator, you draw in plan and it creates the 3d model. Once you’re happy you can create plan elements, these are automatic and form the part of the drawings. You then add the plan elements to a plan. This is your final drawing. For example, You create North, South, East and West plan elements, and you can add dimensions, text etc. You drag these elements into a plan called elevations. If you change the floor plan all the plan elements and plans change dynamically. But it is buggy in places so you have to check all is good. As this was not just a house but pods we needed drawings showing the site elevations, landscape plans etc. We now needed a land survey. The plot is 8hr 30mins approx. from our house so we put some feelers out for getting a land mapping done. £1500-£3000 to produce detailed digital levels and dimensions.... We set off around 2pm on a windy day in July, with my trusty dumpy level, 100m tape and sighting staff, also some red flag metal spikes. We arrived in Inverness around 9pm and stayed in a lovely B&B in Inverness for a mere £130 had breakfast at 7.30 we were on the croft for 10.30. The plan was simple, walk around the area the house was going to be, look out to sea and make sure we position it for the best views (there are 2 houses and a stone barn between us and the sea). Then from here get the levels to make sure the drainage works. And start measuring. The sea harr didn’t help, I couldn’t see Mandy more than 35M away never mind read the staff. We set our datum on the corner of the field on the road, we measured in 10M increments to the position of the house plot around 80M in then created a grid of 10M sq 40M x 50M, using our little metal red flagged sticks to mark the way. I had to reposition the dumpy level a few times due to visibility and used previously measured markers to re-define the datum. An hour or two later cold and wet we had the measurements we needed. After a brew in a café, we set off home getting in around 10.30pm just shy of 1000miles. Total cost around £300. I created a full set of drawing, to include Floor plan, elevations, sections, site plan, pod plans, plot elevations, landscaping plan, 3d plan for the pods. - I sent in a Pre planning application, this is a little thing in Scotland where they like you to ask in advance for planning before you ask for planning. Pre planning took 8 weeks, and was a report saying in general it seems ok, they would need more info on X and Y and drawings for A & B. with this I changed and amended the drawings and put forward my full planning application. I did get the feel that me not being an Architect, did rub them the wrong way, but after a few discussions and changes here and there planning was granted around 8 weeks later. so home drawn plans can and do get planning approval.... I have been asking questions on this forum and reading posts / blogs so added my Introduction with the plans.. The feedback was generally positive, but the big black cloud was the post from @ProDave with regards to the problems he has had with the render on Wood fibre approach. This is the blog I found to work and copied the methodology. How did I miss the posts regarding his troubles? @Russell griffiths, and others also got me thinking about the exposure, so a few restless nights with the calculator and looking for options, we plan to change the external finishes; the planner has been responsive and sees no issues with my request to change the external to Fibre cement boards (Hardie Plank). And also change the roof from Metal roofing sheets to Forticrete SL8 thin leading edge concrete tiles. These changes will give a cavity between the rain shield and wood fibre that I will wrap with Breather membrane. That brings us to present day. Now waiting for the formal quote for electrical connection. And an issue with the water main being made from Asbestos concrete running across our proposed entrance, so we need some trial holes before they make a decision on what needs to be done….. Shopping List: JCB Backhoe loader Static caravan portable storage small touring caravan - cheap as chips - this will be lived in by me for a few weeks at a time until we can get access, water, power and drainage for the static sorted. *A trap we nearly fell into is if you buy a croft you need to follow the rules and work the land, you are bound by these, there are upsides of available grants for help, and this is the bit you need to be careful about. If you buy part of a croft i.e. 2 acre, you’re still bound by the rules, but you won’t be able to apply for grants as the original croft will by default have this entitlement. You need to own the whole croft, and as far as I know this is a minimum of 4.5 Hectare, (11.2 Acre) to be able to apply for grant assistance.

Over the years, 24 and counting, as a couple we’ve never settled, bought a house needing doing up, renovated it, lived in it, whilst bringing up our son. Sold, moved to rented, bought and renovated others. Sold and moved on, but never settled. Thought about emigrating, a disastrous foray into overseas property and we still found ourselves unsettled. The thought of doing something different with our lives and possibly working together was always there. Over the years I’ve built extensions for families and seen the positive impact I’ve had on them. The want to build my own house was strong, and when I say build my own, I want to do it all, and luckily Mandy’s onboard. Fast forward a few more years, we re-model our house and sell. Move to rented with the plan of moving to the Highlands. We’ve got a very modest budget i.e. not enough (remember the overseas bit). So the land needed to help, we found a croft for sale with no buildings or services, and too expensive, but with a bit of negotiating made an offer with clauses for planning and services. More on the plans later. Based in a small rural village of Occumster on the North East Coast in Caithness, Scotland, known as the lowlands of the highlands, our croft of 11.8 acres of grass, now has planning for a house and a couple of Glamping Pods. The croft is fronted by the A99, part of the North Coast 500 route, so hopefully this is where our initial income will come from. I’m more than aware that I will need to go off and earn money to live. Eventually we will have Bees, and rare breed pigs hopefully boosting our income, and satisfying the croft requirements to work the land. And here starts the adventure..