Jenki

As an installer, bring it on😉

Just protect the roof from any sharp edges and no worries.

I can't help direct..but suggest you look up @Terry H blogs he modelled his Slab and there may well be some helpful information in there.

For me, having done GRP and rubber. Without a doubt it would be EPDM. A decent installer will have no issues detailing the lantern and box gutters ( I'm assuming that's what you were describing) EPDM can sit in water with no detriment and can easily be patched if it gets damaged.

You'll have to expand on this. Is it similar to the folds when doing rubber roofing?

You need to think about cold bridging. In the above picture that block work will suck the heat out of the build. Post some plans of what your thinking and you will get loads of good advice. It doesn't have to be expensive.

🙈🤣

In Scotland, my BC stated the two shall not meet. I.e 50m rubble drain for treatment plant. Separate soakaway for top water.

so, maybe a scratch coat on the reveal before window install, then I know its stuck and seal from here. more to think about. Does the EPS need priming before base coat? if so any recommendations for a product

Thanks for the input @Nickfromwales, only issue is 'no render' as its being timber clad. I could peel and stick the whole reveal, but this wont improve fire rating. I could add cement board and then clad?

The drainage of the window should be at the front of the window, the cill / Sill sits slightly back allowing it to drain. The gap you see, as you suspect is not correct, I would seal with silicon. Use a narrow blade to 'tool' the sealant to maintain the drainage path. not ideal, but better than water egress As @Onoff has said, if the install is this poor on what you can see, I would expect far worse on the inside reveals. I would ensure you get some algicide on the render / frame to clean it before attempting to seal.

Me neither. I'm not out of the ground, but I want the details sorted now. So the day to day issues don't get in the way of the details and missed

If you fix EWI then it's usually glued and the fixings go into the webs of the ICF either plastic or metal not into the core

I can't believe my detailing is perfect, so maybe my post needs a little bump as it may have been lost in the other forum activity.😬 There are a few ICF builders and I would appreciate thier hard earned knowledge. If by some fluke of nature it is perfect a little like 💙 from 1 or 2 of you would put my ever racing mind at ease, until the next question arrises, which to be fair there's loads rattling around. Thanks

Hi, @Martin S I Can't remember seeing anyone use this during my research. I've settled on PolySteel. I like the steel mesh inside the blocks, and they gave me free structural calcs / reinforcement schedule as part of the cost.

I think you've hit the nail on the head. There are a few people on here who have built and used Ecocent and had good results. I was tempted to look at these, but still need heat for the house, so I've settled for ASHP.

@NickK you say too much 30k is that 30k over budget or 30k is too much? I've built many an extension and the problem you will run into is that small extensions and large extensions don't conform to £x /sq M. Builders need to be there and bring all the gear etc. Footings and digger small extension day to dig, larger ex to extension a day to dig. So some costs are the same. Obviously materials are more. With regards to drawings, I drew all mine for planning and BC. Look on planning portals and copy.

Looked at this, and opted for the AIR Heat pump, and I'm still happy with this. biggest mistake was single glazing 😥.. The stove had too many negatives, no free wood, cost, dogs etc.. just concentrates the mind to not be in here too long.

Following on from my Foundation post, I want to get the detailing correct on the windows, this is spurred on further by reading this post My build will be with PolySteel ICF, 50mm EWI, Board on Board vertical cladding. UPVC windows. I'm thinking of using a stub sill on the UPVC window and then an Aluminium over sill. Using the sketch by @Babak in the above post, I have come up with the following Questions: 1: I'm thinking I need to add a packer (compact foam?) under the stub sill to allow for the over sill to be sealed - is this correct? 2: I'm thinking of adding 20mm EWI on the reveal to form a cheek, so the window can be sealed to this? 3: DPM, this need to be under the sill, over the outer wall and sealed, also out past the side of the reveals with an upstand. This detail would be very difficulty with Std DPM, so was thinking of using strips of peel and stick EPDM? or would Triton Liquid Membrane be better? To finish the reveals I'm looking at possibly using Black Soffit board as this will give a neat easy to seal finish against the frame.

I'd settle for that👍. Static caravan life: went to bed last night at 23:00 lounge temp 19.2°C. Outside temp -1°C (-5.2°C wind chill) this am. 05.00 Outside temp 1.2°C (-3.9°C wind chill) Lounge temp 7.5°C 🥶 so circa -1.9°C/h although its more like -10°C hour 1 then -0.34°C/h 😂 I don't have the temperature in the bedroom as that would be scary

I have bought a backhoe, a lot of advice on here, and it is justified advice, was get a 360 tracked machine. I went for the Backhoe, as it has the loader and forks. I have dug all the footings on some cabins. lots of drainage, moved 200 tonne of stone, 16 Cube of concrete with it, so I am glad I have this over a 360 digger, and as the house build start and I'm moving more sheet materials / pallets it will be more helpful. There is no doubt I would have spent more hiring. But the Backhoe is not ideal, digging trench's takes some prior thought, and lots of manoeuvring to get the job done, and I've sat there many times knowing It would be quicker with a 360. Also on a small site it just wont work, I've got Acres and some time struggle to manoeuvre the machine to where I want to dig. If I had the money I would have bought a 5T 360, and a separate loader with forks. SO buy a 360 if you know how to drive it or are willing to learn. If your thinking of letting others drive it STOP. You also have to think about security.

My thoughts being that the bath and shower would flush this pipe and reduce the chances of blockages . And it's an extra 15M of pipe and two ic's. It's not going to break the bank but this is the level of saving I need to think about 😬. But at the same point I'm not trying to cut corners.

Could you please cast your informed eyes over my drainage plan, and tell me if I've missed anything. I've used a NHBC tech sheet for some guidance, namely if I use a rodding point (bottom of the diagram) I can then branch off the main run for Bath and Shower. The two WC's and SVP will be connected with a Y branch and 45deg coupler to give a larger radius. SVP will be in the plant room and vented through the roof, I plan to use this for the waste for Utility basin, WC basin, and drain / blow off for UVC (150L UVC) Lastly I plan to have a walk in tray and want to use this or similar trap which will be connected to the 110mm pipe. (The House slab in the shower area will be left lower, so I can form a tray with screed later.

not an answer to the problem, but buy the same phone as the Mrs?

I'd say a screed would be minimum 50mm to reduce cracking, grit / sharp sand and cement 4:1 / 3:1 ratio with some form of plasticiser, but surely your FFL will dictate the depth? its not a massive area so may be Self leveller would be an option. SBR bond the sub surface? - what is the sub surface?