Ferdinand

It might be interesting to make one fastigate or semi-fastigate as a contrast.

Personally I like my larch to look weathered. So I would suggest a beer and a barbecue as the best option. You will only have to do it again in a couple of years !

Have PM'd you.

On the Mway yesterday I passed a crew-cab lorry towing a big caravan. It makes sense. I do not think it was a showman - would have had a trailer with an elephant on the back of the caravan.

My last 2 have been: 10 yard skip for up to 4 weeks. £230 inc VAT. Was tricky negotiating the 4 weeks, then the builder filled it in one day flat. 7 yard skip for up to 2 weeks. IIRC £160 inc VAT (invoice currently filed) Ferdinand

Go classic. Saab 95 or Citroen CX Familiale - you get swmbo, 5 kids, and a ride-on mechanic just like the Mille Miglia.

Probably you would need a one man band who turns over less than the VAT limit.

On the whole garden privacy issue. @JSHarris Have you considered a relatively lightweight nursery fence for a few years while the hedge grows? I am think of something like wattle or bamboo matting, which should be OK given your microclimate. That could be quite inexpensive, and may attach directly to your post and rail depending on its strength or could be done with support from knocker posts and rails like a 6ft horse fence. Aside from the visual block panels that basic fence costs around £6 to £7 per metre run for materials, probably including fixings. You could use a nursery hedge such as lleylandii or laurel while something more interesting grows behind or in front of it. They quite happily support 2m fence panels in reasonably windy areas for a few years, but I think something more diffuse would be better in your valley. My understanding of trellis over panel above 2m is in the "may get away with it" category. It would probably only need 5 years to grow a good hedge from where you are now, and I think may help soften the quite high amount of hard landscaping you have. I think that ultimately a hedge is a better option.

Apols. Thought you were down South.

I caught a little of the programme, and it seemed good. I thought the 9 Days claim was a bit bogus, but that did not detract from the programme. It would be a good public education step if these programmes detailed the months of planning buggeration. F

Basic conveyancing for a house I pay about £495 from a competent local solicitor plus disbursements - Midlands. I would expect a plot to be a little more complicated due to it being more bespoke. F

Just reading the title, I had a number of £500+ in my head. Given that you are in London, I would think £729 may be OK. If you want a check phone up a couple of others and ask them for the approx cost of a basic boundary agreement. F

Cheers.

Probably Bill of Quantities. Or, on its side vertically, a cat demanding dinner.

WAs that wood expensive? I am currently after a 50mm x 250mm x 1.5m chunk for a bench? I am being quoted £25 for that in newly cut Green Oak, which seems OK, but I really want something self-maintaining, so I am waiting for a job lot if I can find one.

WIll visit the new thread, however on the whole garden privacy. Have you considered a relatively lightweight nursery fence for a few years while the hedge grows? I am think of something like wattle or bamboo matting, which should be OK given your microclimate. That could be quite inexpensive, and may attach directly to your post and rail depending on its strength or could be done with support from knocker posts and rails like a 6ft horse fence. Aside from the visual block panels that basic fence costs around £6 to £7 per metre run for materials, probably including fixings. They quite happily support 2m fence panels in reasonably windy areas for a few years, but I think something more diffuse would be better in your valley. My understanding of trellis over panel above 2m is in the "may get away with it" category. It would probably only need 5 years to grow a good hedge from where you are now, and I think may help soften the quite high amount of hard landscaping you have. I think that ultimately a hedge is a better option. The other option I have seen to give privacy at window level was traditional Venetian blinds on the inside. WOuld not help heat, however.

@JSHarris Ideas. 1 - Can you persuade *them* to fit reflective film? 2 - Could you plant a strategic clump or two of tall non-invasive bamboo by your fence to screen the neighbour, perhaps in a constructed bed if you want it a little higher from the start? We have one designed to block a neighbour's upstairs window and it is well on the way after a couple of years. Ours is in a former asparagus bed (just to be sure), and should go up to maybe 5-6m. A black or red stemmed one might look quite cool with your cladding. eg Phyllostachys Nigra could reach 3.5-4m plus the height of the raised bed. Or PN "Henon" ==> 8m high ! 3 - Free standing pergola? i am not convinced a pergola ... unless draped with eg wisteria so you cannot see through it - would do very much to block visibility. And I can see it being difficult to come up with a design that enhances the house. 4 - Maybe think veranda or outdoor sitting area. or Ozzie type concept: I think the key for design may be integration into or comtrast with the house and roofplane, but I am not sure they will help the neighbour. Ferdinand

Pleasure. You also get the experience as well as potentially saving some money, of course. The thing I try to remember is that it is always a money vs risk vs time tradeoff. eg You can spend your time learngin something, but one of your judgements is when to spend your time to reduce your risk and save your money ... or when to pay a professional (then their is a relationship to manage with that pro ... and you need a smaller amount of knowledge / experience to manage that, but you need more if you save money by going to an inexperienced pro). The same applies imo to architects .. most self-builders only build one house but others have built 5 or 10 ... and the inexperienced self-builder can easily take the 7-year-trained architect at their word and not know how to be an effective client. You need a segment of their expertise to be able to manage them - taking time to visit 28 houses helps, but so does having built a couple of projects using one. Personally even though I have never built my own house, I grew up around architects which helps a lot. It may not be about building a case (unless you go to formal process) but also having them be convinced that you are an experienced person as that will change their attitude. Then it is down to you making then backing your own judgement when you are satisfied. You will need to dance a jig around the interpretation of "reasonable" in your circs (any neighbours to ask?), and a potential saving of say 5k ->2k may not justify employing a solicitor more than minimally. Their expertise in setting the charge may be (what it costs to do it + a bit less than what it will cost you to challenge it). If you are agonising then they may have got it right from that perspective. This thread is an interesting one .. @hmpmarketing asked an excellent initial question, then drew on lots of perspectives to get a handle on it, but then sorted the potential issue with a neighbour's parking space over a half hour chat at the gate. Handled differently they could have been "on their dignity" for the next decade and not talking, or in a complaints war. It may be argued that he there was "too much information", but I am sure the extra hinterland (albeit it many opinions some of which clashed) helped. Do not forget that you could post on the other forum mentioned. The poster Leasehold Answers used to run an advisory business iirc, but does not seem to be active now. One more: do some online research on our Freeholder. There are companies that are professional investors who make a living from the fees - smoe are exploitative and some are OK, so it will help to know what you are potentially dealing with. At least you get your 70k back on the house price in London. Probably. Ferdinand

So ... what do we think? Here is a spreadsheet with lots of previous data and majorities sorted in order of likely declaration time if anyone is *really* interested in watching comparisons as they announce tomorrow. It is from @AndyS over at politicalbetting.com. http://www2.politicalbetting.com/index.php/archives/2017/06/07/your-essential-thursday-evening-companion-andyjss-general-election-spreadsheet/ https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1OmJVW05bWEn2a9ak4BJGe_6Jm_u2qdN9DK0GqqeV8Gg/edit#gid=0 My prediction: Votes Tory: 46% - only one poll has had them below 40%, UKIP transfers Lab: 34% - WWC Labs voting Tory due to Mr Corbyn keeping it down Lib Dem: 9% - Tiny Tim's idiosyncratic campaign focus on declining remainers UKIP 5% - job done SNP: 4% - just under half the Scottish voters Green: 1% - shifted to Corbyn The rest: 2% - who? Seats -(likely to be way off) Tory: 388 (+61) Lab: 191 (-44) SNP: 45 (-11) Lib Dem: 5 (-4) Green: 1 Plaid: 2 NI: 18 Tory Majority: 126 (depending on how you count it) Turnout: 65% Possible minor civil unrest when the Corbynistas hear the result and declare that democracy must be corrupt because they lost. Expect petition demanding that MI5 rigged the result and must be abolished. Theresa may somewhat diminished. Ferdinand (sorry - possibly in wrong topic but it will be a polite thread)

Depending I would say 4-6 months is possible. As ever with LR it is worth a chase a few weeks in to make sure it has not been shunted sideways due to a mistake on the form, and not been returned to because of the continuing flow of new work. Ferdinand

Think that is correct. It may take some time longer as a result - weeks or months. Ferdinand

Progress. Looking good. Up to the tile course. One row of Brick On Edge to be added, with three small end/middle pillars and blue solid bricks for the caps, then cleaned down with brick acid. The dustbin area you can see will be screened by a blue brick perforated wall with tile capping this week.

For more questions there is a lot of expertise on the Landlordzone forum, especially on the Long Leasehold subforum here: http://www.landlordzone.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?11-Long-Leasehold-Questions Especially in the FAQ at the top: http://www.landlordzone.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?62429-FAQ-On-Leasehold-Property-Issues-Your-Answer-Might-Be-Here And in thread 3 in the FAQ on Consent: <--- READ THIS PARTICULARLY. http://www.landlordzone.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?62040-Consent-For-Alteration-Addition-and-Conversionscharges-SC-and-GR Suggest you read all of that (and I mean the FAQ in detail, and skim the entire subforum as far as you can bear - see you next week :-) ), and your head will start spinning more slowly. And I think it may be worth a check what happens if you extend your lease using your legal right or purchase freehold now or after your alterations. Will your project eg increase the prices of these operations. Ferdinand

@Archer On your last para, I think that "which may not be unreasonably withheld" may be imputed into your clause by general law where consent for alterations is concerned. And if they charge more than is "reasonable" then you have comeback. I am more familiar with rental contracts, where there are many topics where that needs to be included for a clause to stand, but this is from the Government's Leasehold Advisory Service website: "You should ensure that the lease allows you to carry out alterations to the property. There may be a pre-condition that you must obtain consent from your landlord or some other party before proceeding with any works. This means that you cannot carry out the works without first obtaining consent. Consent should not be unreasonably withheld if the alteration is an improvement. If your lease does not allow you to carry out alterations you will need to ask your landlord if they are willing to waive this restriction." http://www.lease-advice.org/faq/i-want-to-alter-my-property-do-i-need-to-ask-my-landlord-for-permission/ On the 5k charge, that is an Administration Charge, and as such must be reasonable. That is, it must fro example relate to the amount of work they actually need to do. If they write one letter and lick one stamp, £5k is too much, but if they have to do umpteen reports and employ several ologists, then it might be more reasonable. You should be able to have a breakdown and query the amount if excessive. "Any administration charge demanded by the landlord must be reasonable in order for the landlord to recover the charge, and must be accompanied by a summary of the leaseholder’s rights and obligations in respect of administration charges. If the summary is not included, the charge is not regarded as being payable unless, and until, the demand is made with the summary." http://www.lease-advice.org/advice-guide/service-charges-and-other-issues/#23 I think the relevant legislation is the Landlord and Tenant Act 2005. The Leasehold Advisory Service offer Free Advice by phone or email. https://clients.lease-advice.org/appointments.aspx, and I suggest you avail yourself of 15 minutes of their time ... just to help understand your context. As ever have a bullet-pointed half page summary and questions to hand, and a copy of your lease which you have already read, marked, learned, and inwardly digested. Opinion not advice: To my eye 5k looks high unless they are having to spend about 2-3 weeks of man hours on it, and consult several professionals on top. My feel is that 1k is more reasonable, or 2k if it involves checking structural work etc. affecting other flats. That is my guestimate. They may also need specific insurance. Remember that they cannot set their PW costs against the 5k if you are paying for that separately - watch for that Fast One. Ferdinand

I am going with a 30% perforated brick wall, topped with cut roof tiles and a red brick diamond. Height will be about 10 courses. ie: stretcher bond but with 75mm 30% gaps. I'll post a piccie somewhere when done. One option I explored but did not pursue which I think would work, and be both interesting and less expensive than Sreenwall, was to use permeable paving such as Turfstone or Truckpave as a low wall. Others may want to consider that in future. Material costs approx: 1 - Screenwall = £50 per sqm (may get some discount) 2 - 1/3 overlapping blue engineering bricks = £20 per sqm. 3 - Permeable Paving matrix as wall = £30-40 per sqm. Potential problems buying in small quantity. Use for groundworks and build a decorative wall from what is left over. eg Truckpave: 600x400x80mm sections. Weigh <10kg each. Made from recycled plastic so may well bounce. http://www.terram.com/products/porous-plastic-pavers/truckpave-porous-paving.html Turfstone Made from concrete. 600x400x85mm. http://unilock.com/products/driveways/turfstone/?region=2 Ferdinand