Ferdinand

So you can put a Yuuuuge (copyright: Trump) shed in the back corner :-) That is a big reduction for your neighbour.

Welcome back :-). I will be interested to see how it goes from here.

We had a lot of that, and also in objections, as there was a lot of pre/post war ribbon development along our site - even though only 3 gardens actually touched it.

Presumably the person selling the tiles ... . My last job was a fixed price including the kitchen. My one before that was ideal ... import a good with detail relative who is a good tiler and stand there handing out tiles and cups of tea.

Anyhoo. In terms of disagreement and abuse, I have had a bit of gyp which has been difficult and will continue to be awkward, and a bit of disagreement which has continued to be disagreement but without damaging relationships. I think it comes partly to whether a loss can be mitigated, and continuing attitudes. If someone genuinely loses something or real value to them - eg a view over fields - then it can be damaging forever because it is a loss in front of their (or in different circumstances, my) eyes every day. If there is a personal animosity which develops, then that can be far worse. Ferdinand

Unless they get to the dictionary I will have no idea what they mean. *innocent face*

can we add GFAM and FOAD and GSAS to the acronym dictionary?

Locations would help?

Wickes 50% off all Cuprinol Garden - 2 for 1 Wickes have an offer until Monday for 2 for 1 on all Cuprinol garden products. http://www.wickes.co.uk/spotlight/Cuprinol-2016 There is also a JUNE17 10% off voucher code, which is worth a try at online checkout. Or the usual 10-20% Trade / Gift Card reductions should stack. This looks like a good 'un if you want Cuprinol. If it operates in store that will be 60% off at the checkout for me, which is likely to be a good deal better than elsewhere. I think you can mix and match identically priced items. F

Excellent philosophy, Mark. If you want to reflect gradually then a set of topic based blogs would be really valuable for future visitors. Ask one of the admin team for a blog. Mine is about "Details". Then have an "update" thread which you update on the forum each time, so people notice. Aim to learn and help others learn from what you think were mistakes, and some might turn out to be decisions of genius. Was the extra expenditure: Gold plating that you or the architect added? Things that you underestimated? Elephant traps that suddenly appeared (eg ground conditions requiring expensive foundations or flocks of bats)? Planning type stuff or consultant costs? You set me off to look at at "The Medic House" by AR Design and I admit as done there they seem to me (personal opinion) to have missed some important details (eg seem to have created 2 brand new bedrooms in the flat roofed 'pod' that never get any sunlight - driven by a decision to use Permitted Development not Planning Permission?). May do a blog about it. Ferdinand

The idea is that they live there because: 1 - It is at the side front so close to the side door from the kitchen - away from the back door. 2 - It is away from the back garden, so not near where people sit out. 3 - Close to the front so little distance to wheel bins to the front. 4 - Just higher than bin-height so the bins are hidden. 5 - Perforated so the through-draught takes away smells. 6 - Off to the side so hidden from visitors and the people in the house going out.

You could GRP the join.

Why the right angle kink? That looks like an excellent hidden trip point for blockages. I think you want something you can get drainage rods through from both ends if necessary. Or perhaps a chimney brush. Rodding or jetting points? Minimum radius to follow that of drains? I think I would argue for a longer grp section with a suitable kink to join a little lower, or moving the letterbox section to make say 30-45 degree the maximum angle. I would also consider making that section if cladding relatively removable just in case. It is up in the air so people may not look too closely. Vertical scarf joint and coach screws on that particular batten (or us it counterbatten!), and stainless screws for the cladding? Or mount the whole vertical slice of cladding and batten on a hook or two? Even a plastic batten if lighter? F

I thought free demo versions were available?

TX.

Keter Factor Plastic Shed 8x11. For various reasons I am having one of these to store extra building materials, specifically big doors and space for 8x4 sheets. There are a couple of brands of plastic sheds - Amber Skylight is another which has a translucent roof but worse reports. Keter review better and also do a more expensive one called Oakland which is paintable. Normal price on a Keter Factor 8x11 is about £899, but I found one at Costco for £699. No delivery charge but I paid £15 for a 12 month membership as it was cheaper than the 5% non member premium. The one wrinkle with these is that the base needs to be very level. Arriving next Monday. Ferdinand (Just checked and the price is now £799 - oops). Still cheaper than other places.

Cheers - new one it is then. F

Once you get through the design, one option is to make up a pattern and manufacture the fibreglass bit in your workshop rather than pitter-patter about on the roof. Then you simply have to do the joints while outside. In that case you are able to make a couple of spares. F

If you are going to need a football or rugby team of consultants, then imo on a scheme such as yours it is a good test of your architect's suitability for managing the whole thing that he can come up with suitable recommendations. However, I seem to recall that your architect is one to whom you are particularly attached, in which case you may need a Planning Consultant type to help you find the right other consultants. Elsewhere I think I suggested building a relationship with a local experienced MRICS, who may be the person to turn to. Ferdinand

My good (Kent and Stowe) pruning saw requires a sharpen. Slightly torn about whether to just replace since they are only 10-15 ukp. Does anyone have a recommendation for a suitable file and where to get one. I think I need a narrow angle diamond profile file - a thing called a "Cant" file. Ferdinand

@Adamantium I think that those different drainage studies may be addressable by a single ologist, potentially in a single report or series of reports, and that you should get that ologist to recommend the sequence, such that one might demonstrate that you do not need to do the rest. Similarly, nature, trees, bats, and ecology etc may be addressable by a single person. Or as @JSHarris says, sidestep the whole caboodle. If you are going to need a football or rugby team of consultants, then imo on a scheme such as yours it is a good test of your architect's suitability for managing the whole thing that he can come up with suitable recommendations. However, I seem to recall that your architect is one to whom you are particularly attached, in which case you may need a Planning Consultant type to help you find the right other consultants. Elsewhere I think I suggested building a relationship with a local experienced MRICS, who may be the person to turn to. When we did an Outline PP on our (housing estate) site with the intention of selling to a big developer we used Mott McDonald for our drainage survey and design on the advice of our lead PM / Planning Consultant. They were not cheap but were good. I agree that there is an issue that the Plannign Conditions seem mutually contradictory. See the 6 tests: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/use-of-planning-conditions#Application-of-the-six-tests Ferdinand

Not sure on that, or whether the end panels are up to being a door. Slab internal doors from a house being renovated work well if you can find one.

Howdens do not do wardrobe sized doors - or didn't when I wanted some a month ago. They will offer 2 small ones joined together.

Is your build MBC? Do they have a detail?

Is that a reference to my post, or somebody else's? It should be a straightforward calculation based on the (horizontal plane) roof area it will be draining and the standard extreme rainfall case to be coped with (seem to remember 2 hours of x mm per hour), using 100% of the roof area above the dormer plus 100% of the area of the flat roof area. Can you use the numbers from a trad dormer with a gutter all the way round emptying onto the roof since this is identical to your worst case of 100% of rain ending up at the back, and since the horizontal plan areas receiving the rain will be identical? The roof down the side of the flat dormer will need the same detailing as trad, and should be a standard detail ... with added belt and braces if you choose. The tricky one us the back detail which needs to be deliberately robust. Fibreglass there going far further up the roof than anyone says is sensible should last a long time. Ferdinand Ferdinand