Ferdinand

Yep .. ideal for what you needed.

I still *want* one Anyone out there wanting to play with DGPS and some Raspberry PIs? Or I need an X-ray Total Station.

18 dollars only seems to cover one month would be the downside. Good for a hit and run. I want one that can draw plans from GPS by touching walls and corners with the puter

I am depressed that the Pobble House is named after the Kentish for Pebble rather than "the Pobble who has no toes" by Edward Lear. Have these people no standards? http://www.nonsenselit.org/Lear/ll/pobble.html

What is the minimum height you need, and can there be a gap - say 200mm - below, on the basis that overspray will be high not low usually? I am wondering about tall bath screens, which have the hinge only construction. The one I just put in was 1500mm high by 850mm.

Add. I think the longest ever Grand Designs self-build project (10+ years?) used huge planks of wood as giant overlapping shingles. But he had his own forest, so you may need to schmooze someone with lots of wood. PS Be interested in the detail for the bottom of those posts. Usually they would be on mini-pillars or hunks of stone.

@Visti I don't see how say a waterproof membrane under the wood would be that expensive. I am not sure what effect you want but there are plenty of options for a "vertical bar" or "continuous" effect over the roof. eg and you will need to find out how it was done, 1 - The Grand Designs High Wycombe Core-Ten house had continuous Core-Ten over the pitched roof. There is no reason why similar could not be done with anodised aluminium or sheet metal. 2 - If you want a vertical texture you could use tiles or slates to give a pattern / texture. eg Small black pantiles or Romans, or mixed coloured slates / tiles arranged in bands. 3 - You could do in coloured box-profile or similar metal roof. 4 - There are a whole series of pitched roof houses with similar roofs on the Dungeness peninsula, including one covered in black rubber, one done in vertical black wood etc. Piccies below for 5 of these. These are all publicity-seeking-architect designed (identified at the links), so you should be able to get some technical details off the net. Spend a weekend down there, and have a wander knocking on some doors with a folder of your plans in hand. Some will be delighted to talk. While you are at it visit the wonderfully idiosyncratic collecton of village churches on Romney Marsh ... a great experience, and the WW1 "Sound Mirror" 'radars'. EDPM sheet. Presumably airtight https://www.dezeen.com/2013/08/25/black-rubber-beach-house-by-simon-conder-associates/ Stained wood https://www.dezeen.com/2016/01/06/north-vat-house-rodic-davidson-architects-dungeness-beach-kent-england/ Think this was on George Clark's Small Spaces. Wood and Fibreboard - Pobble House. https://www.dezeen.com/2014/07/28/pobble-house-dungeness-guy-hollaway/ Nearly flat wooden roof https://www.dezeen.com/2013/08/25/el-ray-at-dungeness-beach-by-simon-conder-associates/ Shingle House. Roof clad in tarred shingles. https://www.dezeen.com/2010/12/06/shingle-house-by-nord-architecture/ 5 - Take a look at the wooden Nave Roofs and Tower Roofs of Stave Churches or wooden windmills (eg Chinner near you). That is not vertical but is certainly vernacular. Ferdinand (Picture links removed, as Dezeen seem not to like it) (*)

For info my Wagner Project Pro 119, which is a £600 machine, runs at up to 200 bar and has a maximum specified nozzle size of 0.019". For the job you are contemplating I wouldn't bother unless you are looking for an excuse to play. It will take most of a day to get used to it before you touch the job. Given the area I would either use a roller or a wallpaper paste or dibbing brush.

Tape strong building plastic sheet across the first couple of joists before you put your planks or sheets down.

Reporting back, today I took a few pics of the A-Frames we ended up with. The verticals are about 2.1m high (ie lower than roof of shed for storage), and the horizontals are 2.4m. Once both sides have screws on it will hold about two dozen lengths of skirting. The extra vertical is for shorter lengths. It folds flat (2.1m x 2.4m x ~100mm !) to take to the shed, and *could* be dismantled. The important points were the brace for which we just screwed an angled timber, and that the horizontals are on the inside leg of the A so it folds OK. Ferdinand

Surely the Bruce highway should properly be in Scotland, not Oz ?

Catching up, this is the Makita Stealth Holdall. About £20 for the holdall and £4 for the vinyl spray. Turquoise no longer.

@worldwidewebs @TerryE This looks like the document equivalent to the one you need. This is from Kent CC. You could then see if they have met the requirements, which you would expect from an accredited contractor, and have reason for calling them back. Aspects not covered by that will be down to whether they met your contract imo. This FOI seems to have the doc for Cheshire West and Chester attached but you will need the most recent version. https://www.whatdotheyknow.com/request/dropped_kerbs_2 The doc https://www.whatdotheyknow.com/request/179596/response/444144/attach/3/Application pack MASTER COPY.doc?cookie_passthrough=1 CHeshire East have a page on their website on the Planning Aspects http://www.cheshireeast.gov.uk/highways_and_roads/highways-licences-and-permits/dropped-kerb.aspx I do not think you will prejudice your position by asking for a copy of the spec. If necessary just use a pseudonym from a throwaway address. Or whatdotheyknow.com. Ferdinand

I think it can sometimes be different to this, but with same impact. It is common for a householder to own land up even to the midline of the road, but if it is designated as Highway Land that means that there is a right which overrides aspects of your control of that land - similarly in principle to the situation where you own the land over which eg your neighbour has a Right of Way, and that Right owned by your neighbour prevents you eg building a shed on the RoW if it is a 'substantial interference' to the RoW. You would then be constrained by the overriding rights of the Highway Authority .. usually the County Council or similar. We had a whole slew of objections to our big Planning App by people who thought that land outside their fences was part of their gardens. It wasn't, and the objection was baseless ... though I can understand why they might have thought that. They were quite angry / upset on the basis of entirely untrue opinions, unfortunately. Ferdinand

:-) Identify with that. I have a particular T who wants to paint grey pebbledash white. Have been saying no since 2010. The dash has been there for 120 years. In my LIttle Brown Bungalow rental, I had a small panel of traditional render done last week, and made it self-coloured by using local red sand that is redder than all the normal red sands. In the sun it looks almost Spanish. Hopefully no maintenance ever. There is much to be said by installing preparatory ducts and eg ready to plumb spare radiator connections in case it is not as airtight as expected. On the LBB I put in ducts to three likely places where media systems may go, with drawstrings in place, when I was insulating under the floor - and also a pair of double sockets at the same points. The aim is to stop Virgin and friends wrecking the fabric. All of my paths there are loose laid pavers over loose gravel with the pavers 150mm from the house wall which means that any cables can just be run in the 2-3" of gravel, and it covers the duct exits. All of my pipes and cable are run under a floating floor in channels between the insulation, which has osb over then Click fit Laminate or carpet, so it can all be accessed. The install let leckys and gassers work much more quickly and with direct runs, but the compromises in trimming doors etc may make it marginal. There are quite a few other threads on related subjects. When you buy things you always want spares ... if you ask just before saying YES then they should throw in a couple to clinch it. EG I have a couple of spare solar panels and Solaredge modules obtained that way. Also take care with products that wear down to have enough spares to replace worn out bits. I am thinking of laminate floor, but also you need a strategy in case your little darlings drive their electric pedal cars through a kitchen cupboard door, especially if you have one of those immaculately modern kitchens and design range that change every 2 years or so. On flooding do not forget that your pipes can flood. Plastic pipes are more resilient to freezing if you use the right plastic. I now always install ... going from the water meter side ... an anti-hardness device then a Surestop on the house side of the main stop tap, and it is switched off during overnights away. Ferdinand

Being a little judgemental..... I am inclined to blame *that* on a media significantly run by people with Arts Degrees, who get to write about subjects that properly should require them to be able to count to more than 5, and have some understanding of science and statistics. I am not depressed - I just evaluate on personal brands of individual writers rather than newspaper brands, and expect idiots who write for newspapers just to be like every other idiot, but with a megaphone. The continuous existential flap about "robots taking our jobs" seems to be a case in point. The arguments are really no different from when Council maintenance replaced turnpike roads, factories replaced cottage industries or renewables replace gas power stations which replaced coal; society and industry develop, and we need to look forward not backwards. The thing that does truly depress me currently is the state of leadership in our universities, and to a lesser extent in our politics. Ferdinand

Just a note that Seconds & Co seem to be well-stocked with PIR at present.

This proposal has now been formally refused on grounds of Parking and Amenity Space, despite the applicant offering a "three rooms and a study room" (!) alternative. Report attached. @jack Please would you hide this thread from teatime on 23/11. Thanks Ferdinand 201710-Planning-Proposal-report.pdf

If you buy a Mercedes E-series, you could use the "park from your smartphone" option.

I love the stylised picture of the Buildhub logo in the hall.

Thanks to a forum member, I have a local recommendation who charges £50 per door, which will be fine. Cheers all Ferdinand (Will be largely absent for the next week or three, as the Little Brown Bungalow renovation is in the final stages and we are moving a business I part own to a new unit. And it is nearly Tax Time).

@AliG @Russdl Sapele is nice - love it for windowsills or impressive shelves. I just bought a hunk of that for a threshold for a patio door. But personally I'm a sucker for Western Red Cedar. For the "under the overhang" area, you may be surprised what is suitable if it gets relatively little weather; softwood may be fine. I think you should go and look at a few under-balconies that are 20-50 years old, and see what wood they are made from. It was a popular thing to do amongst some 'modernist but human' architects from the 1950s to 1970s so there are plenty of old examples around. It is quite common to just have joists continued straight through the wall to form an overhang, and that approach may be used there. The Vincent Timber call looks good - currently they have Western Red Cedar and something called Red Louro on clearance. Ferdinand

Job posted on mybuilder.com, where there seem to be a lot of Joiners hanging doors not fitting kitchens. I will report back.

So if I can get round £50-55 that will be OK. Cheers