Ferdinand

Thanks for all the comments.

As ever, the one thing you do not want is wood in contact with either the ground or concrete. If you are doing that, then use Postsavers. My usual way for more durable fences is to use concrete fence repair spurs, which come with bolt holes to attach posts, set into the ground. Then attach vertical posts, and horizantals to that, and then your facing verticals. Here that would give tryouts something structurally separate from your wall, which may or may not be beneficial. On occasion I have bolted posts to the back of the wall; I would not do that in this situation. I would also make it permeable to some extent. I note that your total height is over the the normal 2m limit. Ferdinand

If this is a big problem, as it seems, I would expect Velux to have a list. Ferdinand

I think the Aldi one is £289 vs £529 for the Screwfix version. Quite a difference.

interesting .. in Currys yesterrday looking at a range of Bosch 8kg 1400rpm machines in the £300-£400 range, and only one was described as having a self-timer. A little more digging required, perhaps. Cheers (Update: digging, all of the machines have timers claimed in the documentation ) F

I am about to replace our washing machine - I think for mum this is only about the 4th one since 1961 so it will be with us for some time. The question is .. for potential use with overnight cheap tariffs, is there any reason to go for an integrated delay timer in the machine itself, or to go for one which plugs into the wall socket? As I can see, the reasons for wanting a delay timer in the machine are: - machine has to be removed to access plug. - insufficient space behind machine. (Obvs. A well designed kitchen will have the plug in the next cupboard, but that is still tricky to access). And the reasons to have a separate timer include the extra cost. At a previous house we had E7 but the plug socket was at the front of a cupboard so access was fine, What do Buildhubbers do? Ferdinand

Any comments on the laser level at £15? https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-laser-level-with-tripod/p/011880272896201 F

They would either refuse a mortgage, or reduce the value to that which excludes potentially unlawful operations not covered by indemnity. Eg I have one where the parking space is potentially inaccessible due to exactly this vehicular access issue , so I would only get a mortgage for valuation without a parking space. Of course the valuer might not notice ... ?.

If there is already ped/cycle access then they are probably allowed to improve the surface, as the dominant user can on Rights Of Way. He would not object to residential OP, he would need to stop unlawful vehicular use of the lane, such as cars or diggers to your plot. He would send you a letter, potentially take up an injunction (not *that* expensive if he could potentially make 10 or 20k) or he could just install something to allow permitted uses and stop vehicles reaching your site. So keep digging and researching until you have enough info so you can make a yea or nay decision that you are confident is for the right call. Then at least you have the satisfaction of getting it right. You will know that you can have your house or have avoided an elephant trap. F

Before you meet anyone or talk to anyone you need to check with your solicitor that so doing will not poleaxe your opportunity to get an Indemnity Policy. The principle of a Policy is that you are insuring against an unknown but calculated risk, and as it becomes more known and therefore predictable the risk of the event occurring decreases or increases, and then if increasing becomes uninsurable at a reasonable premium. Practically, your anonymous letter may already have killed the opportunity. Not my specific expertise, but be aware - others may have more precise knowledge. IMO it would probably reduce the value of the land, either by the amount you need to pay to persuade the person who owns the ransom strip to let you have access (which would technically be up to a third of your increased value by having the access), or by an amount to reflect the risk of such circumstances materialising, plus costs. Of course your anonymous letter could be some failed objector chancing their arm, in an effort to stop the development ... after all, the outline permission will expire in 3 years from the approval date, and if it has been stopped once, the owner may back off permanently, muttering into their beard . Cui Bono? If you do get your policy, then should the owner emerge you will have the problem of negotiating access. If they own it and you cannot demonstrate a Right of Access or find an alternative, then you cannot proceed without permission, which could just be withheld; you cannot compel x to make a contract with you, even an offer of ££££ may not be accepted; they may just want peace and quiet. But all of that depends on the risk of the event - lane owner reappearing and demanding something - occurring. Any way, I agree with the others .. you need to throw this back to the seller to resolve, or take the risk yourself. The second course of action is one for a speculator to take, which may not be you. Ferdinand

Depends on your measure ! I think in taps to a large extent you do get what you pay for, until the level when you start paying for the badge. Personally, for a house newly built I was living in I would want something good enough that I would expect to pay perhaps £150-250 if buying at retail price for a kitchen sink mixer. I think that is the starting price level for good ones. It is something to be used umpteen times a day, so it wants to be pleasant to use and just ‘work’. Similarly I would want an equivalent quality for bathrooms. one of the little things that makes the house enjoyable. But the last 3 lots I have bought have been discounted by 30-80%. My own came from B&Q of all places in a half price clearance 5 years ago. For a recent renovation they came from Wickes at 75% off due to a range change. So I say fix a level of price / quality that you are looking for, without being too demanding on individual model, then wait for a deal, and save enough for a theatre trip. Single single lever and with a pull out nozzle, and it is a basic spec that I can get a normal sized bucket or watering can or kettle under it to fill. It may be that you get satisfaction or a deal from a German superbrand; if so, enjoy them. I seem to recall a woman on GD with a tap fetish who spent £1500, and Kevin McCloud was finding it. That is not me, but good luck to them. Ferdinand

They are local to me. Here is a piece from the local press: https://www.chad.co.uk/news/business/thousand-jobs-saved-at-ashfield-company-1-9633055 As indicatesd, it has ‘saved’ a thousand jobs. It looks to me like a prepack, as the new setup is owned by the current majority shareholder and relatively new senior management. it has happened very quickly .. within a couple of days. It looks as though customers and suppliers may have been protected at the cost to the previous minority shareholders, but that last is speculation. It could just be a force majeure way of reorganising the business if the minority shareholders were reluctant. Ferdinand

Bored of your downlighters? Why not replace them with bulbs to give a different appearance to your ceiling? Just an idea that I happened to see in a house in Kent a couple of weeks ago. GU10 bulbs are available in shape other than downlighters, for example candle bulbs: It is far netter not to have done it in the first place, but at least there are ways to mitigate the damage. (No, GU10 downlighers are not my favourite. form of lighting.)

You could secondary glaze if you really needed to. Quite unobtrusive with just bevel edged glass and mirror hinges, especially for sashes. At the old house we used to put those on nearly all the windows through the winter, and some had them on permanently. F

Is that one of your new sash windows that is cool round the edge? And is that a fireplace or a blocked up fireplace? Will putting minimal something one window reveals help those pillars? Even minimal will increase the thermal escape path. Well done, Octopus. F (My octopus last week was as tasty as expected btw. Two tentacles left.)

One of these should do your conversion: https://www.techradar.com/uk/news/the-best-free-pdf-converter Or just a screen grab and draw a filled rectangle.

@ThePoplars How did you get on with the Trapezium window? Just interested if one of us came up with something that works. F

Someone will know a service tha5 will unlock them.

@Randomiser I am not convinced that your ‘demolish but keep it unaffecting the start of development’ argument works. If something is what the TCPA says as a matter of law, I do not think you can change it by writing a letter, and if a Planner agreed to the change they are probably Ultra Vires ie outside their authority. Then if it came into question later you would have been acting on a false assumption, and the start of development would turn out not to be at the point you want it - that would be construed according to the law not the judgement of the Planner who got it wrong. You can’t, unfortunately, create a legal bubble not affected by the word of Planning Law, unless there is an exemption or distinction built into law already. The only one I could see was if the demolishion and the rebuild were structure as parts of separate Planning Applications. It may have been that the best way to achieve this was to demolish before applying for PP. If you must do it this way, one thing to consider may be applying for a Variation of that condition, and apply for demolition separately. But you would then need to make it absolutely clear and understood by everyone that the demolition is not related to the Varied PP. To me that sounds like more buggeration than it would be worth. I think you perhaps need to ask your Planning Department or Council Legal Department for how it will be viewed (perhaps try the latter first directly as, perhaps unlike planners and depending on your Council, they may not have been trained not to talk to you yet ?). You would need to frame it as a request for clarification of the law in xyz circumstances, only mentioning your case in passing. Alternatively ask Planning Aid, who may be able to advise (Google it - free service). Alternatively talk to your own experienced Property Law Solicitor, or Planning Consultant, if you have such on your team. Also keep in your mind that the start of development date is fundamental to your Self-Build CIL exemption, so - whatever you do - make damned sure you get that one right if it is material to your project. Get it wrong and it could be a financial bloodbath if your local CIL is substantial. Ferdinand

Feng shui? (As opposed to Feng Hooey, or Hong Kong Phooey) It’s that Friday Feeling...

Interesting. Thanks. F

A lapse not a joke. You are right of course. Lack of adequate checking on my part. Will edit. But the main statement is correct, according to the Batmen: F

This thread has prompted me to start one on pacement etc of Bird and Bat boxes.

Thinking about Bat and Bird boxes. The only stuff I know is my general impression that bird boxes need middling temperatures rather than hot and cold, so they should not face directly north or south, rather east or west. But I do not know about Swift Boxes. And my general impression is that bat boxes need full sun for most of the day. And do these local authorities that demand bat and bird boxes actually hand out any advice? Has anyone had any help on this stuff from their Local Authorities as part of the deal when conditions are imposed? What did they say? Ferdinand

I would like to hear chapter and verse on this. Is the road classified? I have a house on a 100m stretch of unclassified road between two pieces of B road, and the Council told me they would have trouble refusing me permission to open up my garden for parking therefore (ie no PP required on unclassified road).They could only demand a level of quality in the construction of the drop kerb and crossing .. like Building Regs. In the countryside I believe you do not need anyone’s permission at all if the road is unclassified, and you have direct access. For example see this page: https://www.thwlegal.co.uk/about-us/news/public-highways-and-access If there is a verge you will probably want permission of the Highways Authority to cross it. Who owns the ditch? As for what to install, I would just think about a BFO checker pattern steel plate and go straight across everything, or at least the ditch, making sure it is suitable anchored. If steel plates work for roadworks ... Perhaps it would need some reinforcing with hardcore. But I have not done this, and others will tell you if my suggestion does not work, and why. If discreet, JDI and wait for someone to go Oi! might work. After all, you already have permission in the PP as a defence. Your call. Ferdinand