Ferdinand

TRVs are normally easy to fit, and only cost a couple of ££ each. However, some people like me have been known to make it more difficult by crossing threads etc. We probably want confirmation from a resident plumber. eg different types. The thing to remember with TRVs is that they only provide a limiting value on temperature, and no control of heat output, ie how fast it gets there, except to stop it at X degrees. F

What does this say for people who including easy access to flat roofs in their design, for maintenance? eg if it is made easy to clean snow, if that access from inside is via a half landing window to avoid big dangerous ladders from outside, does that mean that parapets are required around the flat roof? So presumably the technique is to make sure that the access window inside requires a step ladder or stool? Ferdinand

So time is of the essence. The other idea I have is to stick a modular bathroom in there ie cubicle that just needs service connections, whilst he addresses it. My only other idea is a DMEV fan with trickle setting ... from about £70 or so. But that is just another sticky Plaster. And that is me out of ideas. F

I think you should collect Angel Fish, and make a very thin fish tank.

Are we up to £1.06, yet?

What will you do with the bucket labelled “Bits Left Over”. ?

Change your wall finish behind and beside the fridge to be absorbing.

I think that Which cover noise when they do their Best of reviews on fridges. Also some websites have noise ratings in the spec detail. Finally, standing it on a square of rubber matting will help.

If you get a wireless stat you can move it aroun, for one.

Does he have a second shower or bathroom? IMO the sensible outcome would be for the HA to sort out the problem, and him to make a suitable contribution, rather than try to bodge and get away with it. As A LL I would cut such a deal with my Ts and do so quite often, but that requires basic trust on both sides. eg One T last month wanted to paint the black wooden doors of her kitchen grey, and I gave her a day of handyman time and some advice. From my point of view it extends the life of the kitchen by 5-6 years. F

Question: Are so-called "natural" or "ecofriendly" paints much better than the aqueous-based paints which are now virtually everywhere? Aside for a rant --------------------- I ask because, on another forum, a link was posted to *this* piece in the Guardian; the article is dated March 19, 2019: and recommends: The first thing to note is that this is thick-as-a-plank "journalism", because the "proof" link which includes these recommendations is to an article from 2009, that looked forward to new and better regulation being introduced in 2010. ie The 2010 author Katherine Sorrell seems to be entirely careful and competent, and the 2019 author is a careless at best who seems to be more suited to Taboola or I Can Haz Cheeseburger, but is actually billed as a " former data journalist at the Guardian ". Sigh. --------------------------------- Anyhoo, back to the question: Are so-called "natural" or "ecofriendly" paints much better than the aqueous-based paints which are now virtually everywhere, including DIY sheds? My expectation is that there is little difference, and very probably not enough to justify a 300-500% price difference (from current prices on a couple of the recommendations vs Wickes full price). Ferdinand

OK. being more constructive. The obvious thing is to fess up and try to have a sensible conversation, or put it all back and then call in the LL. If he wants a dehumidifier I would recommend on of these as a good but small commercial one. This is the smaller one of the two I have https://www.broughtoneap.co.uk/products/dehumidifiers/ New they are about £400 for the smallest so for a LL with no dehumidifier it should be easy to justify. That at least should let him see if it comes back. His other alternative is to tank and then dryline, then tile. Or can he do it, then get the LL onto the roof. If he wants a one room HR,fan, then it will go in the same hole in the wall as a normal fan and cost about £150. Relevant q: How long is he staying there, and what sort of tenancy is it? Secure or AST? F

If it is rented, and LL is sitting on their hands, then he needs the EHO in. If he has already demolished his landlord's bathroom, then presumably he is in breach, and possibly in a hole he has dug. Ouch.

Does that mean a single dwelling on the designated site, or does it cover a single dwelling somewhere else if the first one falls through? As a TF manufacturer, if I was providing the design resource, I would have a lock-in clause to my company - with a "pro-rata time spent" buyout if I do not get the sale.

Anything except sorting the wall properly is a sticky-plaster, and asking for dry-rot. As it is, he may already be requiring an upgrade under building regs.

Yes - perceptive comments. I reckon a completely gutted bathroom there, and doing things with plumbing and walls would be the best part of 10k installed by my bathroom man, depending on finishes etc. If I start retiling the shower area etc it could be another £1250-1500, which I would rather keep in my pocket. If I cannot hang on to the shower screens, which should be possible by turning the RHS one through 90 degrees, that could be another £500-1000. I am hoping to get something attractive and stylish with a 5-6k spend including labour, which also has to cover gutting the subfloor, new Electric UFH, and a new tiled floor. The current shower area has an Electric shower at the LHS, and a gas rainfall one at the RHS. The plan is to repurpose the RHS to be a supply for the bath, and leave the other exactly where it is. I do not want to go cutting into walls right round the bathroom. Moving the loo is impossible, as the soil pipe goes straight towards the outside form there backwards. But much of this will not be clear until the floor is up.

Thanks for the 2nd go. Yes there would be space in the window. Generally I like a mirror over the sink. However, that would mean quite a bit of extra plumbing and general moving-around, which I aim to avoid if I can. I may play with the possibilty in Sweet Home 3D. In my ideal result, I would not disturb the existing walls too much at all. Whether that is possible, and how far ..? When I have gathered my thoughts I will have a conversation will the fitter about everything when he comes to do the downstairs bathroom first. Thatbone is less complex as it is basically a bath to shower swap. This one is due to be done in the summer; the other in April or May. Cheers ferdinand

As a potential buyer, I would be OK with a non-signed off PP as it can be "Lawful Development Certificate"-d and is basically a paperwork thing; a non-signed off Building Regs completion would give me the willies - especially on a self-build, as it is about the quality. And I would probably put you through more hoops than Building Control. By the time it was done you would feel like a performing sealion. The concern would not be an indemnity policy, but rather that I would need to be satisfied that it was not going to go wrong in some fundamental way. (Bonus para: One way of thinking about that is that for a buyer it leaves you with a newish house that has the "unknown" risks associated with an older house, reintroduced. You do not know what is there, and what might not be sound. That is assuming that BC completion is a decent measure of "sound") So, more acceptable for a forever house, but your children might get annoyed later. Ferdinand

My bathroom needs a refurbishment because a whole line of tiles has cracked, I think due to moisture-induced movement in the subfloor. In my last article, I posted some photos of the current arrangement, and possible ideas. This is just thinking out loud about a couple of possible layouts. As ever all comments are most welcome. Here is the current layout, which shows the plan but does not include the full set of posh bits (eg shower here is a wetroom area with showers both ends): and 3d-view Here are my two ways to incorporate a bath, and replace the wetroom area. Personally my preference is for a location in the window, though perhaps with no door to the shower. Whilst I think this is stylish, the other option below is more practical. IMO this option would need something of a more solid barrier to separate bath and loo. 2 - Bath in Window Area / Reduce Shower Size This option uses a double ended bath as shown. 3 - Bath in Alcove / Reduced Shower Size This has more intimacy, and would probably want a single ended bath, due to the alcove. The alcove into the hipped roof: And a photo of the dormer window alcove, which is 1.5m wide.

Does this mean that the drink-taken has worn off? /beergoggles

Welcome. IMO Facebook does not really preserve things, so get to know us for a few days then perhaps start one here. BTW there are a few blogs here that may be useful .. including the Scooby Cottage Renovation of a cottage renovation, though that is in an English Town. Mine is more general - God is in the Details. There are plenty of others. I am unanimous that yours should be called "Here be Dragons". But you may disagree. You really can't spend too much time doing homework in advance ... given that mistakes on paper or in your head are the least expensive. Ferdinand

Why not start your newel post in the basement, and have it spanning 1.5 or 2 floors .. or run it right through to the ceiling?

Lovely word. >tegula, tegulae declension: 1st declension gender: feminine roof-tile http://latin-dictionary.net/definition/36839/tegula-tegulae

Agree with that. Same here except for particular locations. It is about finding garden plots.

Calling me barmy is a compliment. Barmy is a word well used around painting ceilings.