Ferdinand

Corrugated :-). https://www.themodernhouse.com/sales-list/chandlers-reach/

What did Walter Segal recommend?

I was thinking that would be an impact of the camera trying to focus on a texture. Needs a pair of well-deserve contrasting deck chairs and a table with some beer for the camera to focus on :-). F

Is this one for Hedgehog too afterwards, if it may be vulnerable to leaf blocking? HH tends to keep the leaves on top and create a channel underneath.

Hmmm. Trying to think of things. In my house I only have plasterboard and brick and tiles ie the raw material. I wonder about some of these materials used for facades and for 'sharp' modern houses - various glass things, but also for example the 'hang on' white terracotta tile system used in the GD "Thames House" design in S12 Ep 4 where they replaced a boathouse and upset all the neighbours. I recall it was very pricey but sharp and maintenance free. I have occasionally considered using external (poss. self-coloured) render where appropriate. I have also seen checker-plate used (eg for splashback) or copper sheet (which I think rather nuts bearing in mind copper and fingerprints). There are also tiles simulating other things which my BM has been shouting about eg simulating those walls made from chunks of slate to give the idea of a cliff face / slate mine. And of course concrete. Ferdinand

That is a really good tip, @PeterW. Thanks. My experience with hole saws has sometime not been a happy one.

Looking good. Ferdinand

Isn't that what the bloke says who builds you a leaky roof and wants you to go away? Welcome. F

I suggested keeping the kitchen at the back because that us adjacent to the current kitchen services, so you are taking things through a wall rather than either right through the house or round the outside. Moving several services a distance can easily add 3-5k and is sometimes not thought about until the plumber says "got to run all these pipes through those 3 rooms, Guvnor". Ferdinand

That is often true, however on this one I think it fits in and enhances the streetscape, and is in keeping. So I would be optimistic. It might be worth an informal conversation with the duty planner, or satisfy yourself that the other would work and keep this as a wildcard. You make the valid point that the orangery would likely be permitted development, however. It is very difficult to guestimate cost of either without knowing how much you could do yourself. After all if you get it for 25k under that will add 50% to your budget :-). @the_r_sole is an architect so may have a better guestimate. But any numbers are +/- 50% at this stage on the guessing and it can also be +/- a third on finishes and variability of quotes. I would probably do the extension last, and swap kitchen and bed 3 first, and do bathrooms - that would still be liveable and give you the core of your need. Then pause and reflect. At that point you could still choose to do an orangery or my suggestion. I would aim to bring in room swap, knock through current bed 3 and lounge, bathrooms and complete kitchen for 15-20k to a decent quality in this area and doing some myself. But I have done a number of renovations, and a main contractor would happily charge you 60k+ just for that. Ferdinand

Thanks. A lot of planning involved ?.

eg

Thanks @Anitha that is useful. OK. Briefly - nice bungalow on a nice spacious plot. I would not call it huge - if you build a 4m or 6m deep extension on the back, you will notice that the garden is smaller. Caveat - obvs you live there so you have the info to discount things I get wrong. I am deliberately provoking you, here - though I hope with good ideas. The biggest feature of this plot imo is that the sunny side is the road side, and your suggested back extension / Orangery will get very little sushine, unless you put a big priority on something with rooflight. The morning and evening sun are blocked by neighbours on that position. My kitchen extension on my bungalow is like that - North facing. Unless you did some careful and fairly major work with steel beams on that back wall, you may end up with a long thin extension in the shade ?. Though it could be made to work. Mine - which was here already - works, though I would just like the house to be the other side of the road and the other way round. For a different suggestion, I would think about an extension on the front following the profile of the gable, then knock through Living to Bed 3, and make the ex-bed 3 into the kitchen. Then you have kitchen -> dining -> whatever in one space (eg sunny lounge study). I would use the existing walls knocked open (how open depends on budget to put steelwork in) to define the space. And it would be spectacular to have exposed trusses for part of it. I think you have on that side 4-5m to next door's building line, so it should be doable. I *think* that the trusses are in the right directions to be relatively easy for wall removal. You get a more coherent space, with far better sun, and importantly the ability to change the face of your bungalow to be different in the road. I would think about having the front extension full height internally, and a storm porch on the corner with a corner post. Vertical cladding on he facade might work wornders. You have the advantage that bathrooms are already both front and back, so you can put ensuites and family bathroom nearly where you want. So I would arrange the rest as necessary, and you get a nice living side + sleeping side plan. I might do it in phases and open up the 2 rooms but not extend initially to eke out budget. Ferdinand

Yep that is the sort of thing that is possibly if they husband a big contingency.

We really need to see the house in its plot, and orientation ie where north is - which will get you far better advice. The easy way is for you to do a screenshot from Google Maps or bing.com, and snip off the details such as Lat and Long to keep it anonymous, and ideally draw a line round the plot. We also need to know roughly where you are (say eg "South Dorset" or "Stockport".) F

I have ended up doing that - a 75x25x1800 mm piece of oak was only £9.00 at the local Merchant, and I will just move the existing hooks onto this about 300mm down.

Here are a few photos of the refurbished bathroom when done, including the 'ease of use' items such a shower seat, except for a few finishing touches. (There are a couple of 'before aids added' photos which I have left in.) There is one more post to follow in this series, which will talk about a couple of final touches, and detail the costs of the project. [Edit: Added bonus video from the "Recommendations for Bathrooms for Elderly / Disabled" forum thread created for this project]

Question whether that would be economic in terms of the extra strengthening needed in the initial roof structure.

For this project, that is about it, though the thread may have an afterlife and be hoicked out of the Underworld occasionally if others use and expand on it. However, full details, pats and costs will appear on the blog thread:

The upcycled end screen, which used to be on the bath is now fitted and secured using a 3d printed (by a kind buildhubber) custom block plus a bead of silicone. ------------------- So - this is the white ABS version in situ, and the prototypes have been hoicked. It is slightly out from end to end, but the glue - in addition to being industrial strength and then some - has enough body to pad it out. The edge needs slight tidying with a smear of silicone. I may not even put the screws in. And I have put a bead of silicone along the bottom. That wall mount is a hinge as it is the bath screen reused, but it should stay firm now. Alighnment seems OK. But the silicone bead - despite one of those gummi-bear profiler things and looking OK - is not quite as smooth as a Levy worthy of a visit from a Chevy. And the gap is larger than I would like so I may be tempted into adding a little extra whilst it is still mint. Plus a bit of untidiness to take off once set firmly. So, big thanks to @Temp and a donation coming for BH. ----------------------- And a shower caddy has been fitted. This was from Amazon for about £22, and the key feature is 1) that it is long enough for a <5 footer to reach, and 2) that there is a rubber sheathing where the caddy contacts the screen.

So - this is the white ABS version in situ, and the prototypes have been hoicked. It is slightly out from end to end, but the glue - in addition to being industrial strength and then some - has enough body to pad it out. The edge needs slight tidying with a smear of silicone. I may not even put the screws in. And I have put a bead of silicone along the bottom. That wall mount is a hinge as it is the bath screen reused, but it should stay firm now. Alighnment seems OK. But the silicone bead - despite one of those gummi-bear profiler things and looking OK - is not quite as smooth as a Levy worthy of a visit from a Chevy. And the gap is larger than I would like so I may be tempted into adding a little extra whilst it is still mint. Plus a bit of untidiness to take off once set firmly. So, big thanks to @Temp and a donation coming for BH.

That looks potentially tricky. Get all you can about the legal status first, especially the owner of the road. It is only the owner who can give you permission or stop you ... if any more permission than you already have is needed. Council planning will not be interested in this aspect. "Civil Matter". OTOH you could be fine, but pay it some attention to manage that risk.

FOI the entire planning file for that address, or the earlier time period, specify that PDF by email is acceptable, and you may get the whole lot surprisingly quickly. Though they may try and charge you as it is old, or argue that since there is a scheme to access is at reasonable cost then they are entitled to divert you into that scheme. Or just make an appointment to inspect the file at the office, which is your basic right. Take an iPaD to make notes and use the opportunity to take piccies of the docs if it comes. Angled piccies followed by an image stretch program works quite well Ferdinand

In the GB, I would expect removal of PD rights by condition to be the default. At least in England and Wales. F

Touche. Since I am my own landlord, that would require contortions or a something-scope. F