Ferdinand

Sounds as if the rules require bigger splays than OP can currently provide, so a speed survey will be evidence that the default calc is too stringent for the actual circs. i had one done for a larger development; it was expensive. One thing is to know exactly what they want, and what sort of authority has to be provided by your survey. There also exist databases of previous surveys .. especially if you have requirements relating to flow levels etc. I wonder if it can now be done using eg LIDAR rather than physical sensors. I would find a few surveys done in your area for projects like yours on the Council w/s and have a scoping chat with the people who did them. I would also try to ave a chat with the person at Highways who is handling it. Ferdinand

@Mc9 Welcome. 1 - Looks like you need 20 sheets approx. 4 x 4 for the walls floor roof, plus 2 x 2 for the ends. Minus holes so they can get in and see out. 2 - I see that Seconds and Co have non-foiled 60mm pir at 12.60 a sheet at present. https://www.secondsandco.co.uk/sale 3 - I would consider making the shed a little bit shorter to match 2 sheets in length if poss. 4 - For the walls have a look at the hollow plastic ship lap. Comes in 5m lengths so just need to handle one length and would work out at about 5 per sqm . Far more robust than plasterboard when it leaks. 5 - Have a look at roofing laths for your floor battens. Protected, cheap and come in 25mm x 50mm. F * Are you one of these annoying people who got all the three letter internet domains ? ?

Suggest it would be good to break out Planning Fees and Planning Gain charges eg S106.

2.1m hedge, then put a green fence behind the hedge and keep quiet.

You will need to talk to Highways which could be either County if it is a classified road, or perhaps Local if not, to find out whether that bit of land is designated for widening the junction or the road etc. An application would find that out but it may be useful to know first. Have the material ready to hand ie pic with line where you want your wall, and hopefully you can email it whilst on the phone and they would give enough of a comment for you on the spot. Also potentially there could be services underneath it. Ferdinand

The technique is perhaps to buy a Limited Edition Philippe Stark Lemon Squeezer immediately beforehand .

I would think that they get sight of the bit of the Application that involves the OS plan? Our Council used to display that layer on their website maps, but do not any more. F

Wetting down the floor would use also help perhaps. Like a car painter in his workshop.

For small amounts I use one of those wavy edged bread knives. F

Fencing Rails I went to collect some half round rails yesterday, and I wanted to cross-check on prices. I bought these for 4.50 plus VAT each. they are 100mm diameter by 3.6m long, and the quality seemed fine. It is an Agricultural Merchant near Matlock, so you go and collect. I think this is probably the best long term price I get for anything. That seems ridiculously inexpensive. Does anyone do better? The project is rails to help mum move round the garden.

Notwithstanding aesthetic considerations, I do not think I see huge problems with REPLACING that from a Planning or PD point of view, because you already have the right to have a 6ft boundary there. Though you may need to apply, and council planners can bring in all sorts of things if they choose. I can perhaps see complications is the brick wall was part of the ‘look and feel’ of the overall development eg if it was in the master plan. It may also be a brick wall to block out road noise, as a wall will be better than a fence. So you potentially risk making your garden more noisy. The distance from boundary etc concerns you have should not apply as it is a boundary wall not a house wall, and public land the other side. they mainly relate to security and safety of a private human neighbour. Further, you would need to consider the mechanics and access to build it eg safety barriers on council land. There may be an opportunity to explore arguing that it is not subject to planning by knocking say 2/3 off and putting part fence panels between pillars. In any case, I wOuld try an informal conversation with the Council planners aboUt this. It is a BFO brick wall on a biggish thoroughfare, so they will find out about it anyway. Just phone up and ask for the duty planner. (Personally I like walls or hedges, but I have avoided that as it was not your question). Ferdinand

@andyscotland AIUI, PIR does not expand .. it shrinks over time, so you are possibly going to get a gap there that you do not want. This has been discussed a couple of time iirc over at the Green Building Forum years ago. By now the spec may have been tightened but it used to be expected to shrink up to 1-2% ie 10-20mm on a 2.4m sheet. The spec now is more like 1% max, I think. One fix was to let it shrink before install. Another was to use a flexible foam. I would welcome some input from someone with better and more recent knowledge than me on this. This is one of the reasons I incline towards rock wool or similar for use underfloor or overceiling in renovations. F

We probably need to define eye level, here. For me: Below worktop is obvious, though using an upper shelf in t’oven makes a difference. Worktop level is clear. Eye level for me means wall cupboard height. Ie above about 1.4-1.5m I would not put an oven at wall cupboard height, unless perhaps I was going to do the 4 or 5 oven thing, and the high level one was for lighter stuff. On the OP, I currently have a range cooker .. a Rangemaster Kitchener 90 which was 999 from Curry’s. Gas burners, 2 ovens and absolutely fine for 5-6 years. Probably bog-standard for reasonable Range Cookers, and the bits that have loosened up are a slight vagueness in whether rotary switches are in exact 1,2,3 position etc, and the chrome has worn of the spark button. Previously it was a 4 oven Aga which included an extra 4 burner lpg gas hob. Personally I would go with Induction, but I do not do the majority of the cooking. If I was wanting decent and initially inexpensive eg if I had spent the kitchen budget on a House-fluffer for the previous place, it would be separates, as a decent unbranded 5 burner gas job can be under 100, or an eBay range cooker. Ferdinand

Welcome. Can you actually reclaim that? Perhaps in law the overcharge is for "work" which the Council actually has not dome?

Is @AnonymousBosch not a spcialist in online learning? It'll be sorted out before you can say Cinzano. ?

The thing to check is whether they do a full credit check or a ‘soft’ check where there is no record of it. Explanation of the type so far CC https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/eligibility/ F

There is a whole big thread to do with this kind of thing, also things like how to get an extra 10% off at Wickes in addition to the 10% on your Trade Account etc. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/426-creditdebit-reward-cards-discounts-etc/ It does not get the attention of the Weekly Offers thread as developments are slower. Ferdinand

Go for it, and reckon to use the back of some panels for practice first. The length of that playlist is a hint at the possible learning curve. Not sure how it would work with the solvent based stuff, but if it is a £40 one then you can probably afford to throw it away for the potential cost saving on some sealer and the experience ... if it all goes horribly wrong. I have even more respect for Peter Millard given that he showed how, when he dove straight in with the high end powerful one with no mask or gloves or anything, he ended up with the inside of his workshop looking like an igloo. ? Ferdinand

Cheaper option for you, @pocster, might be to get dressed.

Not only is Orville still in mourning for Keith Harris, now you have made him cry as well. You brute.

TMI. Maybe.

I did a "layering up reno" on a 1970 bungalow in 2017 ("Little Brown Bungalow"), which has many similarities and a couple of differences (mainly suspended floor, and I did not use overlay ufh *this* time - I will do so next time as I have enough answers now to give me confidence), that we chatted about on here. But let me make like Eric Morecambe and answer all your questions, but not necessarily in the right order.. For ufh imo there are two things: the overall output is modest, and you lose a lot of heat downwards. For it to be effective and affordable, you need a house with decent quality fabric, and that must specifically include the floor. If you have not got those, then you either need to mitigate, not bother, or accept a potentially cold house and / or high bills. The target I adopted was current new building regs standard for the fabric, and accepting that I would need to compromise so would still hopefully be better than renovation regs standard. My compromise was that I accepted the existing walls with a poor u-value of 0.55 (=brick with cavity insulation), but did better on the roof, floor and windows.` 1 - You need to consider how far you can "profile up". I discovered that doors with trimming margins of more than 65mm are hard to find without going custom, and I still have a 1m high stack of 50mm celotex sheets to remind me. You need to work to 50-55mm in your spec, not 65mm, unless you have doors I did not find or have solid wood originals that can be cut back more. In addition to your extra floor, you need an opening / ventilation gap, and also a trimming contingency for eg if your carpet is fluffier then expected. If not you could be up a gum tree without a kangaroo, with your doors disintegrating because you had to cut off too much. My doors came from Todd Doors; other suppliers are mentioned on the forum. I had to trim an extra 5mm of 2 of mine, due to higher quality underlay and carpet than planned. There are ways to make floor surfaces thinner, but you may need eg something over your ufh system before you put a carpet on it. Will leave that for another post. 2 - Will you personally fit your lower ceilings etc? My doorways ended up as 1.92m, reduced from 1.98, but I am only 1.75m so it is OK. If you happen to be 1.93m, then you will be doing in a policeman's bob everytime you go through a door, which is not OK. Similarly ceilings - mine came down to 8ft exactly, but eg 7'6" would only work in a cottage. 3 - IMO 30mm of Celotex is not enough. You want something more like 75-100mm or equivalent. But there are alternatives. These are all dependant on having decent insulation everywhere else. a - Use a product like 25-30mm of aerogel, say Spacetherm or ThermaSlim. But that will cost at least £75 per sqm. How much do you like ufh? b - Raise the height of your door frames by one course of bricks if your ceiling heights can take it, and have enough insulation. c - Use "perimeter insulation" - installed as a 18" to 2ft deep ring outside your walls. That will cause the heat to stay under your house, and act like more insulation as the ground is warmer 2" down. d - Accept that the ufh is background and that you will lose 30-40% of your heat downwards, and fit eg a log burner for winter. e - Fit rads. (I would do these in order bacde or bcade depending on the project.) 4 - It sounds as though you should take a look at the other thermal elements - wall, floor, windows. 5 - Whatever you do, thorough attention to airtightness detail (and appropriate ventilation) is important. Also consider what will be done when you have to move on from Gas. 6 - Recommend that you thermally model it using the @JSHarris spreadsheet. In summary - yes you can make it work, but if your fabric is going to be largely unimproved then perhaps go for oversized rads. But it is worth doing the fabric properly if you plan to stay. My opinion is aim for an EPC of C (=75-80) or better. The two threads that might be useful, which include before and after photos on the LBB, and also my actual floor buildup, and the one I would use for ufh, are: Ferdinand

So what is a roof with "gutter cutter" (aka Half Dormer) windows called ?? F

Can somebody give me a quick definition of the difference there?

Read this thread. I linked a couple of long lists on there. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/9921-self-build-mortgage/ At a Self Build event last month, Penrith BS told me that they allow you to borrow against land value ... will probably need PP in place ... and consider the whole country excl. Northern Ireland. The devil is, however, in the detail. So homework to be done. Ferdinand