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Ferdinand

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Everything posted by Ferdinand

  1. Why not attach it and the Planning No to an email to the generic planning address, and ask if they can clarify. Or try Planning Aid, or email Ordnance Survey. To me it looks to perhaps be 2 culverts in a single frame. Ferdinand
  2. This is the page for my local manufacturer Stanton Bonna. https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/stanton-bonna-concrete-manhole-ring-900mm-x-250mm.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9b_4BRCMARIsADMUIyrploCgoc1DsyiDajsNAVLqPtkVpESrFH_NO7spVi73qwiWxleO4i0aAgkmEALw_wcB I can't think of a better alternative, or honestly a better price than that quoted earlier in the thread. I do wonder about a double lining - that is install fabric plus layers of sand before you pit it in and backfill. It's not the sort of thing you want to redo in 20 years.
  3. Agree with @temp - the "C" one looks like one side of one of those big culverts that take moorland streams under bridges under a country road. I guess contour lines would give an indication. F
  4. What I am considering is that there must be versions of big chambers with pre-made inlets. Gonna be difficult to drill, and I am sure I have seen things at my local Buildbase Civils. Ferdinand
  5. Do you have a piccie?
  6. There speaks the individual with previous experience of staring at the 5000 pieces of the Christmas Jigsaw until Easter, who bought the print of the picture or the 500 piece version next time around. ? They can do whatever they like, and you can get whatever you negotiate, but you don't always find the A you want to use willing to do as you want in all respects, and individual fees may always be loaded vs a comprehensive package. My personal approach is that having done a number of reno projects I tend to be happy on the design side and much of the rest, but when I need A input it tends to be little enough of the overall project that I would tend to do it on a bit by bit basis charged by time plus disbursements. When I get around to my next significant project I may change that. This is an interview with Allan Corfield Architects explaining their stage fee structures and motivations, which may be useful background. https://www.houseplanninghelp.com/hph168-an-example-of-how-much-it-costs-to-hire-an-architect-with-allan-corfield/ F
  7. Very good advice on the thread - it is bespoke to the situation. You can probably identify a list of things that REQUIRE professional input (eg report to bank for stage payments?), and a list of things that I term WIBNIs (wouldn't it be nice if...) that you would LIKE to have your Archi-wotsit available for. Then - also depending on eg other stuff such as whether your design is well-frozen or may change, your own condfidence in your own competence etc, you use your skill and judgement to come up with an arrangement - which you are more likely to get right because you have thought about it carefully. F
  8. Consider hiring someone to plant it and maintain it for at least one season. May get a better package price, and will get past the difficult stage. Make sure that you learn in that time by asking millions of questions. But as with everything, you get back the work you put in.
  9. If that becomes an issue do say so. It is going to cause me problems as I have at least on blog article which is periodically updated, but I am hoping to find workarounds. I am not aware that spammers were particularly a problem amongst bloggers, who by definition are usually established members. (Unless you count all my posts as spam)
  10. Still might take it. Did you do at all OK from the disposals? When my dad moved his factory from one of the old Raleigh Company mills in Nottingham, they did a deal on "I keep on bits I remove first and you take the rest away," It was full of Victorian bricks and iron windows, so both sides did OK. Slight;y different kettle of fish. 4 storeys 7500 sqft per storey. There is still a big pile of 9' x 18' pitch pine beams in a field at the our old house, from the demolition in 1993.
  11. I think i might accept the £4 offer if it happens with me ???.
  12. Presumably the next time the chap buys one he will have jumped up and down on all the floors.
  13. Agree with the t'others. Your council chap is impressively far on a limb.
  14. Personally I would follow the background.
  15. OK promised some further comment. That is, if you have any recalcitrant planners in your Council you have space to bury three in each trough. But your buying troughs only 1.2m makes it more difficult. I think you have a very good handle on it, but I would say: 1 - In my view, it sounds as though your firbeglass planters may well be able to self support to an extent, and not need supporting over their full length (which could save some blocks and some work). You need to make a judgement. 2 - I have (will in a minute) attached a couple of pics of my use of the system. As you can see, I have done it with huge pavers, so nothing will move short of an intervention by a herd of elephants. The row of bricks is me storing my spare housebricks in a channel which I also use for running satellite cables etc. 3 - I think the way I would suggest proceeding is to get your planters in, and get some blocks, then have an experiment to see what you think works before you commit to 300 blocks. If fewer will do it - so much the better. 4 - I would recommend putting a couple of drawstrings in under your patio at the sides whilst you can - if you may want to insert electrical cables, watering systems etc later. Alternatively you may decide that they will run happily behind your planters and can be added later. 5 - I think it would make sense to have an automatic watering system for your planters. There is conversation on the forum about that. Several of us use the Kleber system. 6 - You need to consider *now* if there is any extra structure you need to put in - eg do you want a pergola to help transition the space from the house to the patio? If you do, then however you are going to support it needs to be considered. 7 - I think the most important thing to say is that you now need to think about your planting as thoroughly as you have about the patio itself. You have a huge amount of trough, and having spent yonks of money on the planters, you owe it to yourself to do the rest so carefully. Do you, for example, want to dedicate one section to growing hanging veg and fruit (tomato / beans / aubergines etc)? (Will need a framework). I would suggest getting some advice from somewhere on that, as it will effect what type of soil and compost you use. It will make a huge difference to your enjoyment. 8 - Yes, the holes are necessary. Otherwise in extended rain it will turn into a large bucket of water with some soil in it, and over time will kill your plants as the roots will get no oxygen. Although there might be an idea in turning a planter into a water garden or bog garden. (As I say - take some proper advice as these planters are your outdoor-room decor for the next 10 years). That's all from me, unless you have some more questions. Ferdinand
  16. Try some of the blogs as a good start.
  17. There is really no need to be daunted. As it happens I know that @Onoff is a little old lady with an umbrella on a mobility scooter, as per the pic below. The hand you sometimes see pointing in the photos is left over from a postman who wasn't quick enough. She has it mounted on the end of a selfie-stick.
  18. (Avoids mentioning Abigail's Party Niches)
  19. You're telling me it's finished? *faints*
  20. What happens if you go over budget by say 10%? Does the A suddenly get 10% more because a material price went up?
  21. Welcome.
  22. Backlit niches are for Abigail's Party and nightclubs run by Michael Flatley.
  23. Then do it to the walls and as remarked but shelves in. Or a corner shower seat for when you become old and decrepit, and to sit on to clip your nails and shave your pelt.
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