Ferdinand

Yes you will be able to find matching ducts. There are other possibilities such as offset air bricks that move the one on the face of the wall up by one to three courses. This post from me last week discusses a sort-of related issue:

Yes you are mad ?. (Will try and do a bit more later) Isn't that a quote from Mrs Icarus? ? We probably need to bring Sisyphus and Prometheus in as well, but I'll start thinking constructive thoughts.

Presumably pruning it out of your tree will direct more energy into growing flowers on his side, so you'll be making his garden even lovelier. ?

So why the flapping fandango don't you install it now? Or make an inclined plane out of that *GKD)~%! walk-on glazing?

I have a somewhat vigorous mature Clematis and Wisteria, rambling over a frame dividing the leisure garden from the kitchen garden. This is an exchange from during lock-down with a friend, but I would welcome any further comments before I tackle this. These are a few "high summer" dripping wet piccies from this morning: o This is the type of frame that is under all that greenery; a 2m tall horse fence. And these are the replies from a friend who posts as "Cyclefree" over on http://www.politicalbetting.com/ Thanks in advance for any comments.

if you get a topographical, tell them to include all boundary features and to go enough beyond the plot area where you will need the information eg to mark all the relevant features of the road and splays where you may need to know these. F

Can you get a Secondhand one from ASDA? Or various politicians?

Welcome. Do not believe a word of it ... buttercup is a Duracell Bunny. In between sleeps.

I suppose that Plan W is to make like the Dutch and mount a big hook and beam out of a roof timber.

Air bricks should be clear for a suspended floor - unless you have done something which removes the need for cross ventilation such as sealing it all and filling the entire void with insulation (which is a different ballgame aimed at doing different things). They need to be 150mm above the outside ground level to keep water out. When I had a problem was because somebody had topped up the concrete drive to the level of the bottom of the air brick. So I fitted one of these to raise the outside above the driveway surface: https://www.toolstation.com/9-x-3-telescopic-vent/p38967 Where the cavity insulation blocks an air brick you take it out and fit a sleeve: https://www.bes.co.uk/air-920x-set-terracotta-white-7656/ Where possible you can lower the outside ground level, by simply digging a trench or creating the French Drain mentioned, which will take the water away to a soakaway you dig somewhere. Once you have solved the issue then the water should go away slowly or quickly, but pumping it out may be useful if you have Lake Windermere down there rather than a puddle, or if it lets you see where it comes back in from. Think of the different things you can do as a toolkit, and look at the different bits of your circs and see which one will work where, or how much you need to do. If you floor or joists is rotten in places then tackle that after sorting the damp. HTH Ferdinand

Presumably with that driveway you have an innovative solution to fire protection / suppression ie sprinklers, which will be a few k extra. I don't think that meets the conditions wrt distance from road and fire engine access (iirc 2.75m absolute min width or all the building within 45m of the roadway where the engine can go).

I would probably consider a permanent framework disguised as a pergola for fitting a portable electric winch, or permanent mounting points for a temporary system that can be recreated in half an hour. An external domestic lift does seem to be a good option, but @pocster will not get one for tuppence. Actually I suppose a further option is to repurpose a set of wheel ramps used for loading vehicles onto trailers as the inclined plane, which are only £100 or so. There's a set available for free in Italy somewhere: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2oEVBSedjE

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My point would be to check that your chosen blocks will be frost tolerant in the way you plan to use them. I think blocks are more resilient than bricks (where you need engineering not facing bricks for a wall to prevent spalling over time), but worth a check. This is what happens to brick walls not done properly with the correct bricks.

You should be able to adjust the aspect ratios of the font by up to 15% each way without detriment using stretching or kerning horizontally or tracking vertically if several lines, or just switch your font. Those were the sort of adjustments which were possible when I used to design publications (though 7-10% was better). So I think that should be manageable, depending on how much control you get.

My first question was going to be why every self builder suddenly looks decades older in the 6 months later piccie compared to the avatar, but then you said it was your mum ? . Looks good. Gentle warning - now until next spring is not necessarily ample time to deal with planning. You will have to get your queries right with only time for one or two cycles, depending how quickly it gets processed, Corona backlog etc.

You can take all the ever decreasing circles this thread has gone in and make a spiral staircase. Serious answer: Portable manual jib crane. Scaff framework and a block and tackle (what I would do). Put some pavers or hunks of ply on the poor ground. Inclined plane and a block and tackle. Non serious answer. Is there a suitable lifting cushion for that height that you can just blow up and deflate? Ferdinand

I use my local monumental mason.

Welcome.

To c9me back at the surveyor I think you would have to have proof of the at the time, and that they were negligent give) their methodology at that time. Personally 8 think it may be easier just to address the causes. none of it sounds excessively expensive or complicated. eg You can reopen up your air bricks. Ferdinand

It depends how it is getting in. Do you ever get standing water outside at airbrick level. If so you can modify drainage outside or modify your airbricks eg by putting the offset "z" vents in to move it once course up the wall.

Welcome. Could you tell us a little about your project?

it is something that is very enjoyable to learn and do if someone is so inclined and does eg an evening course. My mum did such when we had a lot of Guy Rogers furniture, and dining chairs from grandparents. You could get a job which is 90-95% as good as a pro. But allow an elapsed year or 18 months overall. Then you will always have a talking point in the house. Or if you are in a furniture area then I am sure there will be umpteen people who do it weekends. Just ask around. Eg ask a local gym who redoes the leather on their machines. Or get your company to do it. Personally I have a tenant who is a professional upholsterererer who works on the line at a high end furniture manufacturer, so I am sitting in clover eating a buttercup on this one ? . (*) F (*) Sorry - cowslip, as they are more exclusive than buttercups - see Watership Down. Reserved for owsla.

The name would be surveyor or Chartered Surveyor, but measured boundaries would need to be done with mutual consent. It may honestly be easier to make his hedge a bit shorter. If the deviation has been in place with no action for x years then it becomes the boundary anyway.

Having said what I said, on my latest reno I fitted extended window and door sills to all the new 2G windows to allow for future EWI if required. However for a small 3 bed bungalow experience with the tenants has shown all energy bills running at around £55-60 per month having just done the normal things (UFI, loft, decent 2G, careful detailing) well, so there is not enough saving left to justify that much more - and as it is a rental I would need an extra benefit to do it. Much of this reno is on the forum search "Little Brown Bungalow". F